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Dave Stephens

Drengr-mær: Maiden Warrior (Geibig 4 Sword Finished)

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I finished up the sword I've been working on for a while now. Just got some photos of it while the light was good.

 

I'll post details about weight/POB/Nodes, etc. later this evening.

 

I've named it Drengr-mær, which means Maiden Warrior in old Norse. The blade feels very feminine to me to some reason. Light, quick and a bit petite.

 

Anyway, here are a couple photos and a link to the album.

 

Cheers!

 

--Dave

 

https://plus.google.com/photos/101888496836524704385/albums/5864918597704802273?authkey=CM-3xdCB0ffBzQE

 

 

 

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What a sword Dave, wow! very inspiring to see this. I like the choice of name too!

i love the simple but yet elegant hilt.

 

Don't ever stop inspiring us with your work!

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Nice one, Dave! B)

 

Good job on the blood-eddy pattern in the fuller. What's the handle and composite guard material?

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Here are some specs and additional photos.

 

  • Middle bars are 8 layers 15n20/1095 twisted opposite each other
  • Edge bars are high layer firestorm (around 300 layers I think).
  • Fittings are brass, with twisted copper wire in the composite guard/pommel.
  • Grip is blackwood
  • Weight is 2lbs 4oz
  • Blade is 27.5" and 35" OAL
  • POB is 2.75" in front of the guard
  • Forward Pivot point is 10.25" from the tip
  • Read Pivot point is 5" in front of guard
  • Forward vibrational node is 10" from the tip, quite close to the forward pivot point
  • .14" (or 3.7mm) to .08" (2.1mm) just behind the tip

Okay . . . done. No scabbard for this one for a while! I MUST complete a billet of crushed W's for David Delagardelle (who has been more patient than a saint), and begin prep for Arctic Fire . . . which is only 7 weeks away! Gah! Much to do . . .

 

Grins,

 

Dave

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That blade is entrancing!!! Do you think the upper guard is a little to wide? No disrespect intended just trying to learn

that is my favorite style of hilt the hour glass shape is really feminine your right!!!

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That blade is entrancing!!! Do you think the upper guard is a little to wide? No disrespect intended just trying to learn

that is my favorite style of hilt the hour glass shape is really feminine your right!!!

 

No offense taken at all, Geoff! We're here to learn from each other after all!

 

I do think the guard is a bit too wide. Unfortunately, I realized this after the copper wire was added, so grinding it down wasn't an option.

 

Here's a scan of the artifact on which it was loosely based.

 

If you have Peirce's "Swords of the Viking Age" it's on page 73. You can see that the blade width proportion to the guard does seem to indicate I've made mine a bit too wide. Oh well, I'll do it better on the next one, I suppose!

c11014.jpg

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Beautiful pattern you got going on the blade!

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That pattern is intense! Nice clean work all around :)

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A sword fitting for Bodicea herself. Beautiful. question... the firestorm pattern is a variation of the crushed W's, correct?

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Thanks Dave ,

 

That picture really helps ! How do you finish your fittings they are always super clean ?

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The valkyres will steal this one !

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Wow, Dave! Stunning work both in the blade and fittings. It looks heavier than 2.25lbs, but that's all part of the magic B) I love the blackwood contrast with the blade and copper/brass. In fact, there isn't much I'm not drooling over.

 

John

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Thanks guys!

 

Raymond: Yes, Firestorm is crushed W's twisted. It's actually easier than just a pure crushed W's billet with the W's on the surface, because the twisting brings the W's out.

 

Geoff: I rough shape my fittings on on the grinder, but I do most by hand with sanding blocks and files. With brass and copper you can buff out deep scratches easily, but it's a mistake to do so. If you buff agressively you smooth out sharp corners and you leave a kind of "wind sculpted" surface that isn't flat and clean. The trick is to treat the softer metals like steel and bring them to at least a 400 grit finish by hand before going to the buffing wheel.

 

Cheers!

 

Dave

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Dave,

nice. impressive all around. My favorite part is the inlay (I assume it is inlay). Looks sort of like twisted wire, but the lower guard has twisted wire and the upper has inlay (right)?

edited to add: ok, so it is twisted copper in both... so what is the copper wire set into? I see one little void in the upper guard that gives away the fact that this isn't an inlay to mimic a twist but a twist set into something. Looks good. How did you do it?

good one.

kc

Edited by Kevin (The Professor)

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Beautiful work, Dave. So clean...

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Dave,

nice. impressive all around. My favorite part is the inlay (I assume it is inlay). Looks sort of like twisted wire, but the lower guard has twisted wire and the upper has inlay (right)?

edited to add: ok, so it is twisted copper in both... so what is the copper wire set into? I see one little void in the upper guard that gives away the fact that this isn't an inlay to mimic a twist but a twist set into something. Looks good. How did you do it?

good one.

kc

 

Ah, an ancient druid in a deep part of a wild and elder forest imparted that secret to me many moons ago.

 

Alas, I cannot part with the technique, for the druid laid a spell upon me such that if I ever revealed the secret of three layers of thin wood, the middle smaller than the upper two by the thickness of the twisted wire, then stacked, secured and embedded in black epoxy, the secret would suddenly vanish from my . . .

 

Wait. What was I talking about?

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Beautiful work sir... it does have a feminine grace to it. Again, the blade pattern is awesome with the bold twists and the fine edges.

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Dave

 

Stunning as always!!! would the copper wire wrap work on a small radius such as an 1"1/4 diameter? Thanks for sharing!!!

 

Kip

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Great work. Deicate but sturdy. Love the gard and pomel.

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That is one BEAUTIFULL maiden, I raise my hand to your work... :excl:

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Dave

 

Stunning as always!!! would the copper wire wrap work on a small radius such as an 1"1/4 diameter? Thanks for sharing!!!

 

Kip

 

Thanks Kip. I don't see why the copper wire wrap wouldn't work on a smaller diameter. You may want to use thinner wire that I've used here, but the technique should scale.

 

Luck!

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