Dave Stephens 311 Posted April 9, 2013 I finished up the sword I've been working on for a while now. Just got some photos of it while the light was good. I'll post details about weight/POB/Nodes, etc. later this evening. I've named it Drengr-mær, which means Maiden Warrior in old Norse. The blade feels very feminine to me to some reason. Light, quick and a bit petite. Anyway, here are a couple photos and a link to the album. Cheers! --Dave https://plus.google.com/photos/101888496836524704385/albums/5864918597704802273?authkey=CM-3xdCB0ffBzQE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Artis Aboltins 0 Posted April 9, 2013 Wow! Really nice work, would be interesting to handle it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JasperDielemans 0 Posted April 9, 2013 What a sword Dave, wow! very inspiring to see this. I like the choice of name too! i love the simple but yet elegant hilt. Don't ever stop inspiring us with your work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MassArtTom 0 Posted April 9, 2013 Whoa. This thing is impeccable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 1,888 Posted April 9, 2013 Nice one, Dave! Good job on the blood-eddy pattern in the fuller. What's the handle and composite guard material? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Stephens 311 Posted April 9, 2013 Here are some specs and additional photos. Middle bars are 8 layers 15n20/1095 twisted opposite each other Edge bars are high layer firestorm (around 300 layers I think). Fittings are brass, with twisted copper wire in the composite guard/pommel. Grip is blackwood Weight is 2lbs 4oz Blade is 27.5" and 35" OAL POB is 2.75" in front of the guard Forward Pivot point is 10.25" from the tip Read Pivot point is 5" in front of guard Forward vibrational node is 10" from the tip, quite close to the forward pivot point .14" (or 3.7mm) to .08" (2.1mm) just behind the tip Okay . . . done. No scabbard for this one for a while! I MUST complete a billet of crushed W's for David Delagardelle (who has been more patient than a saint), and begin prep for Arctic Fire . . . which is only 7 weeks away! Gah! Much to do . . . Grins, Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff Hardy 16 Posted April 9, 2013 That blade is entrancing!!! Do you think the upper guard is a little to wide? No disrespect intended just trying to learn that is my favorite style of hilt the hour glass shape is really feminine your right!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Stephens 311 Posted April 9, 2013 That blade is entrancing!!! Do you think the upper guard is a little to wide? No disrespect intended just trying to learn that is my favorite style of hilt the hour glass shape is really feminine your right!!! No offense taken at all, Geoff! We're here to learn from each other after all! I do think the guard is a bit too wide. Unfortunately, I realized this after the copper wire was added, so grinding it down wasn't an option. Here's a scan of the artifact on which it was loosely based. If you have Peirce's "Swords of the Viking Age" it's on page 73. You can see that the blade width proportion to the guard does seem to indicate I've made mine a bit too wide. Oh well, I'll do it better on the next one, I suppose! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whitton J J 0 Posted April 9, 2013 Beautiful pattern you got going on the blade! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Shearer 15 Posted April 10, 2013 That pattern is intense! Nice clean work all around Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John F. Ellis 0 Posted April 10, 2013 Simply beautiful! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raymond Jewell 0 Posted April 10, 2013 A sword fitting for Bodicea herself. Beautiful. question... the firestorm pattern is a variation of the crushed W's, correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff Hardy 16 Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks Dave , That picture really helps ! How do you finish your fittings they are always super clean ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hoy's Forge 27 Posted April 10, 2013 The valkyres will steal this one ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Page 51 Posted April 10, 2013 Wow, Dave! Stunning work both in the blade and fittings. It looks heavier than 2.25lbs, but that's all part of the magic I love the blackwood contrast with the blade and copper/brass. In fact, there isn't much I'm not drooling over. John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Stephens 311 Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks guys! Raymond: Yes, Firestorm is crushed W's twisted. It's actually easier than just a pure crushed W's billet with the W's on the surface, because the twisting brings the W's out. Geoff: I rough shape my fittings on on the grinder, but I do most by hand with sanding blocks and files. With brass and copper you can buff out deep scratches easily, but it's a mistake to do so. If you buff agressively you smooth out sharp corners and you leave a kind of "wind sculpted" surface that isn't flat and clean. The trick is to treat the softer metals like steel and bring them to at least a 400 grit finish by hand before going to the buffing wheel. Cheers! Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin (The Professor) 114 Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) Dave, nice. impressive all around. My favorite part is the inlay (I assume it is inlay). Looks sort of like twisted wire, but the lower guard has twisted wire and the upper has inlay (right)? edited to add: ok, so it is twisted copper in both... so what is the copper wire set into? I see one little void in the upper guard that gives away the fact that this isn't an inlay to mimic a twist but a twist set into something. Looks good. How did you do it? good one. kc Edited April 10, 2013 by Kevin (The Professor) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AJ Chalifoux 32 Posted April 10, 2013 Beautiful work, Dave. So clean... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Stephens 311 Posted April 10, 2013 Dave, nice. impressive all around. My favorite part is the inlay (I assume it is inlay). Looks sort of like twisted wire, but the lower guard has twisted wire and the upper has inlay (right)? edited to add: ok, so it is twisted copper in both... so what is the copper wire set into? I see one little void in the upper guard that gives away the fact that this isn't an inlay to mimic a twist but a twist set into something. Looks good. How did you do it? good one. kc Ah, an ancient druid in a deep part of a wild and elder forest imparted that secret to me many moons ago. Alas, I cannot part with the technique, for the druid laid a spell upon me such that if I ever revealed the secret of three layers of thin wood, the middle smaller than the upper two by the thickness of the twisted wire, then stacked, secured and embedded in black epoxy, the secret would suddenly vanish from my . . . Wait. What was I talking about? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GEzell 134 Posted April 11, 2013 Beautiful work sir... it does have a feminine grace to it. Again, the blade pattern is awesome with the bold twists and the fine edges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kip Kaiser 2 Posted April 13, 2013 Dave Stunning as always!!! would the copper wire wrap work on a small radius such as an 1"1/4 diameter? Thanks for sharing!!! Kip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Toneguzzo 319 Posted April 13, 2013 Great work. Deicate but sturdy. Love the gard and pomel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ito Matsumoto 0 Posted April 13, 2013 Good job, Dave. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clifford Brewer 305 Posted April 13, 2013 That is one BEAUTIFULL maiden, I raise my hand to your work... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Stephens 311 Posted April 14, 2013 Dave Stunning as always!!! would the copper wire wrap work on a small radius such as an 1"1/4 diameter? Thanks for sharing!!! Kip Thanks Kip. I don't see why the copper wire wrap wouldn't work on a smaller diameter. You may want to use thinner wire that I've used here, but the technique should scale. Luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
