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Well, I've spent enough money on supplies that I decided it was time to start a thread about this.

 

 

I've been slowly planning out this build, and am finally pulling the trigger on some materials.

 

 

Last week I brought home this used motor to power the beast, 1.5 HP industrial motor, single phase, 220 v.

 

E45F3589-1B98-4C03-B499-B188C96F065D-157

 

 

 

 

Then today whilst wandering the scrapyard I found the right hunk of steel for the anvil, 9.25" dia steel, 3' long. Weighs in about #700.

 

F7C634E0-FE42-454B-A481-3B7C730C7C51-157

 

 

 

 

That's all for now, I'll keep ya'll updated as I slowly get together the stuff to start the build.

 

 

Stephen.

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Whoo that's a nice big round.

 

I'm gonna guess it's a 70s Ford. I have a 66 F100.

I wish I had a scrapyard that'd let me wander around. I'm surprised I haven't found one here in Chicago despite it being a steel making city. We make a lot of dies here in the city, but I never find any big rounds like that.

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Brian, close, it's an 81' F100 custom. I'll post another pic when I'm home.

 

And yeah, I love my scrapyard, I buy all my steel for black smithing there, they sell new steel for a decent price, and anything in the scrap piles, $0.40 per lb, no matter what it is.

I found about 50 lbs of 1" wrought iron chain there once, paid almost nothin for it.

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For the truck lovers out there - Heres some more pictures to keep you entertained during this SLOW build, I'll always take a chance to show her off biggrin.png

 

 

She's an 81' F100 Custom, Inline 6 under the hood.

 

IMG_8788-1_zps697dfe1d.jpg

 

 

 

truck%202_zps52649e97.jpg

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Just a dumb question, as I am still fairly new to the site and still am getting to know people, but, um, what exactly are you building? Now don't count me an ID-10-T yet, I figure its a power hammer of some version, just curios as to the version.

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Not a dumb question, I realize now I was very vague on it, sorry bout that.

 

I'm building a tire clutch, guided helve hammer.

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Tnx for the pics ! The bed is from older model?

About the tire if i remember i read that there the small emergency tires are "full rubber"and not inflatables,here unfortunately not,you think that an inflatable tire will workfor the purpose or will last for just a week?

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Nice score on the round stock! I wish I could luck across something that big. I'll look forward to watching this progress

 

Zeb

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Zeb, in all seriousness, I've got no idea how we could get it to you, but they've got 2 or 3 more sitting there.

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About the tire if i remember i read that there the small emergency tires are "full rubber"and not inflatables,here unfortunately not,you think that an inflatable tire will workfor the purpose or will last for just a week?

 

 

Matteo, to the best of my understanding, it would be best to use a solid rubber, but a regular inflatable will work fine, might not last quite as long, but just make it so the tire is removable, and it don't matter.

If you get them from an auto junk yard or something, you can switch em out every year or so if needed pretty cheaply.

 

I don't know what kind I'll end up with, it'll depend on what I can find.

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I warned you it'd be a slow thread! :D

Here's my latest acquisitions for the cause - two pillow blocks an some grease fittings. Just getting stuff fer this as I can afford it.

E1AA01F4-9A20-40A9-AA1B-1C61FAFAE2BE-186


___________________________________

 

The other night me and Dad got the anvil block unloaded, and to make it easier for moving next time, we decided to leave it upright. Not wanting it to fall on somones toe, I made a frame and braces for it so it'll stay up.

In the pic is my 147 lb anvil for comparison.

DSC09273_zps42b189b1.jpg

Edited by Stephen Stumbo

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Also, I was able to get my hands on (for free) a 10' length of 4" diameter steel pipe, (sorry, no pic yet). I'm trying to decide if it'd be sturdy enough for the column, my dad thinks if I weld on some wings to the sides it'd give it plenty of flex strength. Thoughts?

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Next pieces checked off the list!

Made up these rollers tonight in the machine shop, these guys will be used on the top of the ram for the helve attachment.


They're based off the design James gave me, zerk fittings on either side, and a trench milled into it to hold the grease, with a drilled hole connecting the two.


BABB3276-6426-4777-8106-95FF050DE261-193


C29F4922-9B23-4402-8FC8-87FC1E73B75F-193


9235E7CE-DC96-4E9B-85F8-AE35C4B7E73E-193

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Nice truck! I had an 85 F250 not too long ago, but it got stolen :( I miss that 300CID. Great engine.

This is coming along nicely!

I'd avoid the column design for stability purposes. There's no way to get anything like the stiffness of a giant iron casting with pipe or I-beams IMO.

The only way to get that kind of rigidity is to go for a braced A-frame. You can use 3" or 4"x1/4 angle iron to build a rigid A-frame without a lot of welds.

I'd look for some angle iron and tie rods for the braces.

 

I started collecting some notes here:

http://toxonix.blogspot.com/2012/11/power-hammer-notes.html

 

no doubt you've seen Danocon's A-frame tire hammer:

 

That thing hits seriously hard. He did a fantastic job on that one.

 

A single column design like an LG is to be avoided IMO.

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Well, I just finished paying back my parents for my machining classes over this spring semester, so hopefully I'll start being able to put some more money towards this and get it going again... Slowly but surely!

 

While we're waiting, I've got a question.
The ~#700 chunk of steel for the anvil is 3' long. That's too tall as it is. Should I leave it as it is and compensate with a small step around the hammer? Or should I get about 6" cut off it (I can probably get it done with the saw at the college's weld shop, I know the guys there as I got my welding degree from them).

My worry is that I want this anvil to be as heavy as possible, and by trimming 6ish" I'll lose approx #116... And I'll have to go through the hassle of getting it cut.


Thoughts?

Thanks guys, Stephen.

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instead of having a step around the hammer can you sink the anvil 6" below grade? maybe by making the hammer a two part design like the old steam hammers and what not?

 

Just a thought

 

~~DJ

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DJ, that's another option I'm considering, but I'd rather not do that if possible because it'd make moving it later rather difficult, and Mom and Dad are gonna kick me out eventually.... :huh:

 

 

Also... Knurl or not?

I'm taking the motor to the college with me today, and I'm going to start working on the contact wheel for it. And I'm trying to decide if it would be beneficial to knurl it for extra grabbing power, or if it would just tear up the tire. I can make like a really fine knurl and not go to deep so it's not real aggressive.

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I'd vote for no knurl, or a very fine knurl that's then run on a belt grinder for a bit. They do tear up the tire eventually, even the smooth ones.

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Well, we've got two more items checked off.

 

The other day I stopped at the scrap yard and checked around for a spare tire. I looked for a solid one, but after looking in the trunks of a good 35-40 cars settled for a good condition inflatable spare tire.

 

Tire- $15.00

 

78093DCE-1CBA-43B2-AF3C-5925C97DD127-133

 

 

 

Then the other day I started working on the contact wheel for the motor.

 

I started with a piece of 2.5" 12L14, ran a skin cut along the surface to pretty it up,

 

Drilled through it 39/64" dia, and reamed it to 5/8 for the motor shaft.


Then I drilled out the other side up to 1.5" (to lighten it some)

 

(1.5" is a big drill bit!)

B2BAF6E5-ECB2-4E6B-A123-DE6A594FCBA1-245

 

 

 

After drilling I bored it out to 1 5/8" (I didn't really need to bore it, but I did it to clean up the surface, the large drill bits are in poor condition and leave a rough surface).

 

be1fa9b9-c918-4eec-98b1-ed1191e99ff4_zps

 

 

 

Then I turned down the end where the motor shaft inserts, as it didn't need to be as big, and it would help remove some more weight.

I also chamfered all the corners so I wouldn't have any sharp edges.

 

8250011F-EC33-4602-8D5E-DCEE6FC157E6-245



Next I broached the 3/16" key way then drilled and tapped a hole on the backside for a 1/4-20 set screw.

 

C357184A-7AA2-4CC0-9522-F5CDABC4B598-245

 

 

Finito!

 

D985C8A1-CDFB-4ECD-8CD1-C1D09C0363DB-245

 

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