Finally have an Idea...Drow Bearded Axe

[James Spurgeon]

First off: Thank you! to Jake Cleland for agreeing to let me muck about with his Drow Short Sword design. (http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26418)

So, with a major nod to Jake, here is my concept of a weapon produced as a collaboration between Drizzt and Bruenor.

(If you don't get it...oh well)

Once again; The drawing is full scale so I left out any measurements...

Pommel to front of ring guard: 6"

Ring guard to head (just above the twisted ear): 9.5"

Edge: 4.75"

The dotted lines in the head indicate my initial thoughts on forge weld overlap, those may/will shift a bit as things develop. The haft and tang will be cut/forged from a segment of leaf spring, leaving a wider section at the tip for more overlap with the head. The head and integral twisted ears will be forged from 1/4" mild steel then wrapped and forge welded around the haft. Lastly, I will forge weld in a tool steel bit. I haven't decided what steel to use in the bit, I have some lumber mill blade with enough nickel to give some great contrast with a light etch, which is my mental image, but 5160 bar stock or another piece of leaf spring may end up easier to weld. I will have to experiment a bit to decide.

 

 

Any suggestions before I fire up the plasma cutter?

James

 

[Freya W. Ward]

An interesting concept. I'm anxious to see how this turns out. Looks like we're all makin' some sorta drow weapon all of a sudden

[Caleb Harris]

Only thing I would suggest is elongating the spiral pattern slightly; as is it gives a bit of a "stubby" effect. Maybe point it and swirl it off so it makes an "invisible line" to the bottom tip of the blade's edge?

[Brandon Buford]

I should know this, but what is Drow?

[James Spurgeon]

I should know this, but what is Drow?

 

Dark Elf from the Forgotten Realms series of books.

[Brandon Buford]

Ah, know i see. Thank you.

[James Spurgeon]

Only thing I would suggest is elongating the spiral pattern slightly; as is it gives a bit of a "stubby" effect. Maybe point it and swirl it off so it makes an "invisible line" to the bottom tip of the blade's edge?

I agree in principal, I originally had drawn much longer willow leaf ears. Not that I have seen any historic Viking beards with anything more than ear stubs, but that is the fun of fantasy pieces.

I seriously truncated them when I came up with the idea of splitting and twisting them to match the carving I hope to do on the handle scales. Part of the issue is figuring out how to draw out two integral "strands" of steel from the bar, obviously the longer they need to be the harder that gets. I could deal with that by using 1/4" mild steel rod stock to make the ears and then forge welding them to the inside of the wrap bar before wrapping, which may or may not appear integral but should work.

The only down-side to that suggestion is the difficulty in welding the twists to both sides of the haft without obliterating them. I fear the longer I make them, the greater the likelihood they will get wiped out, or even worse, end up obviously warped or distorted.

Uh-Oh...

I think we just talked me into attempting to match the twisted ears to the handle pattern in design and scale I can't seem to pass on a challenge...

WIP pics to come... hopefully I can get started on it this weekend.

James