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Quinching Oil


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dan,

 

I have been using gulf super guench 70 since 1989 and really like the results. It comes in a 55 gallon drum so you would need to see if several would go in with you or put out a questionaire to see if anyone has some available.

 

Timothy

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Heatbath in Springfield, Mass sells the Parks quenchents. The will sell and ship small quantities, but there is a $100 minimum. Shipping costs are high; get a breakdown before your purchase.

 

If my memory is correct, I bought 5 gals of AAA and 5 gals of #50 for $138 shipped.

 

Heatbath Web Site

 

regards,

dms

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D. WINKLER What steel are you primarily using?? A slower quench is the type A from TEXACO. I believe SHANE JUSTICE has/ will have some for sale. ED FOWLER tells me this is what he uses on 5160 and 52100.

 

Chuck

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Thanks for the help. I should be able to find something now that will work even better than my old mix that I turned over and poured out on the floor last week. I hope I can use the same quinch for all the steels I use. 5160, 52-100, 1086, 1095, L-6, and damascus blends including 15n20.

 

Daniel Winkler

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Nice to see you here Daniel, sorry to have missed you at Harley's.

 

I also like vegetable oils, peanut oil and canola work well. There have been some studies done comparing vegetable oils to commercial quenchants and found them comparable. Peanut oil has a very high flash point too. They should work fine on the steels you are using.

 

Please post some pictures of your latest, I know we would all like to see what you have been making.

 

Don

Don Fogg

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  • 1 year later...

I need to buy some quinching oil. Does anybody know where to get it.

 

Daniel Winkler

 

I don't know about you, but I would much rather use water. It's natural. I wouldn't reccommend oil, but what you do is up to you of course. It's just not my style.

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Lol... I'll need to get rich to ever fill my quench tank... It is a 30 gallon beastie... But, I am aiming to move up to commercial quenchant on that side of things. Having a small lowtemp salt setup has allowed me to use less of the homemade motor oil brew in recent times.... Would love to use water but can't afford to risk it with steels that are picky about quench rate and such.....

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I use Veterinary grade mineral oil, I buy it by the gallon (about $15 a gallon) from my local feed store. It's got a fairly high flash point, leaves hardly any scale, and doesn't smoke too much. I get good edge quenches and in the carbon steel some interesting activity. I use mostly 10xx, 5160, and L6/15n20 for damascus.

 

Geoff

"The worst day smithing is better than the best day working for someone else."

 

I said that.

 

If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly.

- - -G. K. Chesterton

 

So, just for the record: the fact that it does work still should not be taken as definitive proof that you are not crazy.

 

Grant Sarver

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Hi Dan, I've been using Parks #50 with 1086M, W1, W2. Good hamon stuff here, I got it from Heat-Bath as stated above. K&G also sells a fast quench oil and they are easy to order from, been buying from them for 25 years.

Don Hanson lll My Webpage

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I have some of the K&G Fast Quench.... Seems to work well but I only have a couple gallons on hand and so it is limited to small stuff (seeing as how I don't do much small stuff, it hasn't been used a lot, though...). Really would like to see some specs on the stuff, purely for curiosity's sake.

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park #50 approaches water in quench speed and will throw nice hamon, pure peanut oil is a little slower and is perfect for higher-alloy stuff, and it's stable and long-lasting to 500F, so it's perfect for a tempering bath, you can push it higher, almost to 620-630 or so before it'll auto-ignite, but after 500F or so it really degrades and "burns-out" fast.

Those are the only two oils I've personally had any use for.

outside of that It's just water, salts are cool, too, but more trouble than they're worth for some folks, just the cat's ass for others. I've been moving away from them.

 

I think the park#50 is right around $48 for 5 gallon presently, or something close,

Joanne Leighton

Heatbath Corp.

107 Front Street

Indian Orchard, MA 01151

413-452-2000

jleighton@heatbath.com

 

Joanne in MA is who you wanna deal with for the Park/heatbath stuff, I have nothing but comtempt for the rude buttholes in Detroit and Chicago. Joanne will fix you up, knows what's what, and she's actually friendly.

 

Best way to get peanut oil I found was to hit-up your favorite restaurant and see if they will order you a 4-5 gallon jug or two. Gotta specify "pure" peanut oil, a lot of stuff at wally-world marked as "peanut oil" is a mix of all kinds of crap. It'll touch-off a lower temps, no good for tempering.

Randal

www.rhgraham.simpl.com

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Guy at work loves to use his turkey deep fryer for lots of cooking things. Says he uses his peanut oil twice and tosses it. I'll have to hit him up for a used batch sometime.

 

Dan

Dan Pfanenstiel

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with L6 i am geting full hardness out of warm canola oil, warm penut oil was coming out a bit soft, even room temp canola was better than penut. man i love hardness testers

Brandon Sawisch bladesmith

 

eagles may soar but weasels don't get sucked in to jet engines

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You might have to check the peanut oil you have to make sure it's "pure" or if it's actually a blend, I had the exact opposite results marquenching L-6 in peanut oil at 400F... although mostly if I oil quench at all it'll be in park50 and I use peanut oil in the drawing tank, where I think it's most usefull. Anyway, I got the impression that for quenching the peanut oil might work better warmed up quite a bit. If the park50 is 100f or even pretty much room temp it's golden.

Randal

www.rhgraham.simpl.com

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Yeah, what Randal said. My experience with peanut oil is that when it's room temp up to 100f, it cools really slow, and makes the blade nosedive significantly. Basically the hotter it gets the less viscous it is, and the better it extracts heat, up to a point. Also the hotter it is the less nose diving you get. And like he said, when you take it past 500, it really starts to smoke and oxidize. That's when it gets stinky :blink:

Rósta að, maðr!

 

http://jfmetalsmith.com/

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I've had consistently good results with both olive and peanut oil. Blending the two doesn't seem to hurt either. Depending on what I'm doing I'll preheat to between 200 and 400 degrees, and have had no problems doing 5160, L6/1080 damascus or O-1.

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Houghton International, Valley Forge is the largest supplier of quench oils for commercial and captive heat treaters. They sell salt, quenchants (oil, polymer and water additives) for quenching, as well as a variety of other metal working fluids.

D. Scott MacKenzie, PhD

Heat Treating (Aluminum and Steel)

Quenching (Water, Polymer, Oil, Salt and Mar-Tempering)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dan,

I have been using a mix of 50% 30 weight R & O oil, purchased in five gallon buckets from a local NAPA store, and 50% transmission fluid with very good results. It seems to pretty fast, doesn't require much preheating except in winter, and works well with all the steels you mention. You can fine tune it by varying the pre-heating of the oil, and using an interrupted quench. ...I didn't make it to Harleys this year either. :blink:

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