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On the lining of rings...


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I've seen people pull this off well, and I've seen my own attempts fail utterly.

 

Is there a simple approach to lining a ring of damascus, or of anything really that isn't skin-friendly, with silver or gold? Are there certain geometries that must first be respected, and is the join ususally one of friction, peining into place, or is brazing/soldering the better choice? How is the seam usually blended?

 

Is there a trustworthy tutorial about this anywhere, if that's the better answer than trying to describe it here?

 

Curious minds would very much like to know.

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I would very much like to get some idea of how this works myself. I'm thinking of trying it soon

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http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/manufacturing-mokume-gane.htm

Make the inner fit the outer, press in and solder or vise versa.

Complexity goes from there.

 

This was the second project we did in art metals 101...whoa..that was like 22 years ago. I'm old.

 

 

Ric

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Awesome Link Richard I had seen it a while ago and lost it so it is good to see it again Thank you for posting it .

 

Sam

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Chris, if the lining is malleable, use two large steel ball bearings (bigger than the diameter of the ring) and set the ring between them. Tapping with a hammer should result in even flaring from both sides. You can either shape the inner band and solder the joint, or use a ring mandrel and cold forge from sheet. The second method is how I've seen some people shape rings out, but for the life of me, I cant remember where I saw the videos. Once the lining is flared, you should be able to round the inner band with little trouble...

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So, if I'm hearing all this right, the outer ring must be big enough to accommodate an inner lining which is a little undersized for the customer. The liner is just a strip of sheet soldered together, close-fit, pressed and soldered to the ring... and then final sizing done through sanding or very light bumping up to size? That's the basic idea?

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  • 8 months later...

What about doing this on a wood ring? I've seen it done, but I don't see how. I've made wood rings and they're fun curios but would never hold up to solder or peening. Any thoughts?

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Wooden inner ring with damascus outer? Should be possible with a shrink fit..

 

But then again, everything is possible..

 

//DQ

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I think you misunderstood me Daniel. I mean I have a wooden ring (lots actually from when I got bored) and I'm interested in lining them. My thought is that I could maybe make an inner ring about twice as wide and slide it in and peen it over between two bearings. Ideas?

Edited by Tim Scarlatti
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If the metal's thin enough / soft enough a polished burnisher works nicely.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think you misunderstood me Daniel. I mean I have a wooden ring (lots actually from when I got bored) and I'm interested in lining them. My thought is that I could maybe make an inner ring about twice as wide and slide it in and peen it over between two bearings. Ideas?

:excl: Partial hijacking in progress... If you did as described, with a little slow cure epoxy in there to ensure it doesn't lift later, it might work. Even better, I suspect, would be peening in the lining and then putting the entire ring through a vacuum stabilizing treatment before putting the final finish on it. Or skip the metal liner and just do the stabilization... End hijacking B)

 

I currently wear a PW damascus ring I made and "passivated" in Nitric acid and then warm oiled. I do have to re-oil on occasion, but just hand rubbing an oil finish into current projects tends to keep it up.

 

But I hope to do a silver lining for my next ring.

I have 1 question though; I have found that damascus needs to be hardened in order to really highlight the layering. What solder and method do you all use so that you don't over temper the ring?

James

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  • 7 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I made a copper and brass wire mokume ring and melted silver onto it for a liner, it works just fine but it might not be fancy enough for some people.

You should still be able to heat treat the steel as long as you don't heat it up past the silvers melting point, which is around 1600 F*, I think.

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