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Josh A Weston

WIP Rail Spike Viking "Axe"

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  1. Trim the orange edges to complete the profile DONE
  2. Finish the finish… er, sanding/polishing DONE
  3. Etch the design on both side SKETCHED (I haven't etched/carved it yet, just photoshopped my sketch to test it, thoughts?)
  4. Make and mount the handle
  5. Figure out something to carve on the handle
  6. Sell it… any takers?

See the full sized images here.

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i would muck like to know how you got the actual cutting edge without the use of the spikes head and i think your designs are nice by the way real solid.

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That's great Josh...really good work mate...I like your design..go with it....great shape

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Josh, you've really got a great sense of design. This should turn out pretty nice. Have you thought about the possibility of carbeurizing a spike before forging it out?

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i would muck like to know how you got the actual cutting edge without the use of the spikes head and i think your designs are nice by the way real solid.

 

Shawn,

 

Here's an illustration I made of how I spread the rail spike. I learned this by experimenting with variations of this tutorial. I hope this helps explain it.

 

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How I forge a bearded rail spike axe:

  1. Upset the point into itself until the overall spike is about 3.5-4 inches. Tip: make sure to keep the heat only at the tip, especially at first. The more beard you want the more mass you need at the tip.
  2. Fan out the new mass by fullering with a cross pein hammer. Tip: get your fan shape about 50% of where you want it to go. Start curving the beard down at this step. Keep the head end in-tact.
  3. Fine tune hammering and shaping. Take it to final shape.Tip: now start stretching out the length once you have moved enough mass into the blade shape. Once it is drawn back out to length, fine tune the blade end with fine fullering perpendicular to the way you want to move the steel. Use a large ball pein hammer to help create the inside curvature.

Notes:

  1. After step 1 drill guide holes and slit a spot where the handle will eventually go. I slit a 1/8 inch by 1.25” slot.
  2. After stretching back out the length in step 3, I drift the starter slot to the final dimension using a drifting tool. I use this one fromBlacksmithdepot.com.

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Josh, you've really got a great sense of design. This should turn out pretty nice. Have you thought about the possibility of carbeurizing a spike before forging it out?

 

I honestly hadn't thought of it. It's not a bad idea though to get some extra carbon in it. I guess I could also do it after the rough grind too.

 

One of these days I'm going to try to insert a high carbon piece in the blade for a more permanent cutting edge. Right now I've just kinda been making them as a novelty/learning exercise to keep my arms in hammering shape and increase my skills on a piece that I could just as easily throw away if I mess it up.

 

I appreciate the compliments!

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well there it is thanks i was thinking about doing a spike axe myself and i ran across yours. the main difference was i was going to slot a piece of 5160 into the head and same steps from there. but i really like the idea of leaving the head intact looks really good.

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well there it is thanks i was thinking about doing a spike axe myself and i ran across yours. the main difference was i was going to slot a piece of 5160 into the head and same steps from there. but i really like the idea of leaving the head intact looks really good.

 

When I first started making these, not very long ago, I was going to split the head too. But I learned that there is much more steel in the shaft that what it seems at first glance. One of these days I will split the edge in between my step 2 and 3 and weld in a better piece of steel. Maybe on my next try. Good luck! Post pics when you get yours going.

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Beautiful work, man! I've never seen a spike hawk so clean before! very nice.

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What a great looking spike hawk Josh! I can't wait to see more of it. Thanks for the WIP; I see an attempted failure in my future :)

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you posted this on my birthday so is it my gift...? :ph34r:

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I still haven't gotten to the etch yet. I had a guy who was interested in buying it without the etch so I have been waiting to hear back from him. In the mean time I test fitted it on the handle I have been preparing. It looks and feels really cool. I do want to darken the wood a bit more still but I'm really liking it.

 

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