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on the bench, 10/08/2013


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onthebench_zps3c718c4d.jpg

 

Two of these are commissions, the rest were test pieces and offcuts that somehow became seaxes. The two bottom blades were the experiments in wolf's toothery, one, the smaller of the two had the pattern forged into the wrought iron and ground into the edge bar, the other the pattern was forged into the edge bar and the iron forged into it while the welding took place. Both experiments seemed to work, with no real advantage found to either method, IMO. These are all ground to 120 grit with a test etch before heat-treating.

 

irish1_zps701a819c.jpg

 

This is the blade that was commissioned, he wanted a 'serrated' weld, after several experiments on how best to do a wolf's tooth, this is the result. It is based on a blade in the Museum of Ireland, I got her pretty close to the original's shape. The blade is approximately 9" long with a 4" tang.

 

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This one is a commission, seems a bit plain after all the wolf's tooth welds but I'm very happy with the shape. The blade is about 4 3/4" long.

 

smallsax3_zps91dc907e.jpg

 

This one was an offcut from the other billet that needed to be dealt with. The wrought I've been using is particularly nasty, but I must admit it is pretty... I suspect it has a fairly high phosphorus content, and it was very obvious even before the blade was etched. It develops a rusty red patina very quickly.

 

Well, that's what I've been up to lately. Hopefully I'll have some finished seaxes to show in the next few weeks.

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Beautiful. I myself am about to heat treat my first seax.

Quick question; will a hamon show up very well in 5160 steel, if only etched with vinegar?

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beautiful work George - i'm kinda in love with the longer of the two wolf's tooth ones.

 

Caleb - none of these have hamon's - the pattern is from the welding, but to answer your question, no, a hamon won't show up on 5160, no matter what you etch it with, because a hamon won't form. that said, if you're just guessing 5160 because it was a spring, you can try your luck, because springs can be all kindsa stuff.

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Caleb-5160 will not show much hamon no mater what etchant used. At best 5160 can get a basic line with none of the detail possible in other steels. even that can be hard to get to show well.

 

GEzell-Very well done wolfs tooth!!

Edited by Matthew Parkinson
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Caleb, I agree with Jake and Matthew, 5160 will not show much if any hamon, for that you need a simple low manganese steel.... the chromium and manganese in 5160 keep it from responding like a 10xx steel would. If you really want hamons, I'd suggest getting some of Aldo's 1075. It's funny, back when I first started forging knives I ordered a bunch of 5160 from a well known steel supplier, and oddly enough it would form a beautiful hamon, and I was puzzled why everyone said it wouldn't. Ends up, they sent me 1060... I will never order steel from that outfit again.

 

I forgot to mention, the edge steel here is 1095 and W2 (on the big commissioned piece and it's little brother), nasty wrought iron from a wagon wheel, and the twists are 11 layers of 1084 and 15n20.

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George, PLEASE tell me you're coming to Bowie's this weekend with those!

95% chance I'll make it. I'll bring them along....

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