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I couldnt help myself, but....


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I hate being told I can't do something... I forged this from 1084, before I read in multiple places that you cannot get a good hamon from it. I decided to try anyway... Once again, Chris Price advised that while I may not get anything to try a very light coat of clay... So, I did... And i ended up with a very pleasing, subtle hamon. Nothing extravagant, but it is still there... Still playing around with it, and not yet sold on the end state but I've got a few ideas...

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Thats a good looking blade and i also hate being told i cant do something, part of the reason i jump into new projects and ideas. Are you gonne hilt it yourself or have someone else do it ?

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Well, from what I've read, Aldo's 1084 is hard to get much more than a temper line... But I was really happy with the blade, and wanted to give it a shot... Kind of a hail Mary...

 

The idea is to stay relatively simple with the handle, but not quite a shirasaya... Once I get it moving past the present stage, ill give everyone a heads up on the idea behind this one. It is going to be a wedding gift from my wife to a very good friend of hers...

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Hey there Nate! Nice blade! Due to geographical circumstances, (Living near a sawmill!) I use a lot of L6, and just get a faint mottling effect, not a real hamon... Don't know why! But never the less I really LOVE that blade!

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Hey, thanks guys for the input!

 

@Miles- The L6 is one helluva resource to get so easily! Even if you cannot get a good hamon from it, it is one tough steel!

 

@Luke- That is kind of the story of my life...

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The vast majority of my knives are made from L6. I work in a sawmill as the saw filer. I sharpen the bandsaws which are generally 15N20, but I have gotten my hands on plenty of circular saw blades. Good stuff. But you've got to get it really hot before you ever move it very much under the hammer.

 

Now, getting back to the project at hand, Lovely blade Nate! Can't wait to see it finished.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice work!

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Looks like a well done blade with nice geometry. Seems like you could go a little thinner towards the edge. 1084 is powerful, tough steel that can take a very thin edge. I'd go to zero on the edge and then feather in a convex.

 

I've always gotten very distinct, hard 'patterns' that pretty much follow the clay with 1084. But there is some debate about whether or not that is called a 'hamon'. It might be what some would call a 'hardening line' or 'temper line'. Remember that the word 'hamon' is a Japanese term.... and I've read Japanese authors (one source very old.. but I can't recall where!) you can only get a true hamon with very shallow hardening steel. 1084 is not this. There is a lot of complexity in a hamon that you don't find in a more simple 'hardening line'.

 

But having said that.. I love the look of a clayed 1084 blade. In the end it may be all just be semantics.

Edited by Scott A. Roush
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So, I decided to try again, after feedback, here and elsewhere. Here is my third attempt, this time in 1075. The polish is not spectacular, but this is my first time really trying a zero degree bevel, and the polish was not my focus. I welcome all feedback, and I am looking to get this right....

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I was incorrect about the point being to long. I found pictures of similar blades in the osoruku zukuri style that were all but identical in that aspect. Now, I need to refine it a bit more and figure out the mounting for it. Thank you all for the honest critiques!

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