My first attempt at plating a fuller - and an exercise in patience

[Ondřej Borský]

Not so long ago I was approached by a customer, who wanted a nice great-moravian knife, but left the details to me. That pleased me very much, and as I was sketching the knife, I remembered reading about many knives with plated fullers (or grooves?). These fullers were plated by with copper or brass (as far as I remember), and i really wanted to try that, since I´ve found it cool, and I haven´t seen it anywhere. Well, I made a graver in the shape of the groove, a V-graver for undercutting the lines, and the punch. Then the test piece came. I call my test piece of mild steel "Josh", no idea why. One day, I was just working in my shop and I couldn´t find it, so I started speaking to it: "Dammit Josh, where are you?" etc...

The experiment with Josh went well, and so today i got to he shop all ready to engrave, inlay, clean and punch... What I didn´t count on was that a knife blade is a lot more difficult to secure, than a chunk of mild steel with a square profile... Hell, twice I´ve hit my fingers with a 3 pound hammer, I cut my palm, and, being in the agony caused by the hit finger, I redefined the surface of my vice with the mentioned hammer... simply hilarious.

Then I took a deep breath, and tried a different approach... I had to remove a small amount, and repeat that many times, instead of cutting into the desired depth and cut the groove in one cutting-session...

I am not completely happy with the result, the shape of the plating is not so rectangular as I would like it to be, mostly because of the multiple cutting... and the half-circles are not aligned as I have imagined... nevertheless, the copper holds in place, and even with those mistakes I have mentioned I would call it mostly a success ...

Oh yes, and the blade is very clean wrought iron with a forge-welded tool steel edge

 

 

 

[Miles Hebbard]

My sympathy to your finger, but the result looks great! Nice idea!

[Alan Longmire]

Yes, inlay is not as easy as it looks. At least with traditional methods. Looks good, and watch those fingers!

[Ondřej Borský]

Thank you, thank you both . Actually, I am starting to really like inlay... it´s a very interesting and cool method of decoration

[Ondřej Borský]

Well... inlaying doesn´t seem too bad... but the clamping of the bloody blade does

[Stephen Olivo]

Inlay is quite a bit of fun. About 2 weeks ago now I took an inlay class from Thomas Latane. https://plus.google.com/108205902509248083781/posts

My suggestion would be to use pitch. Thats what I have used for my engraving, repouse, and other such operations that had to hold odd shapes. Copper vice jaw inserts help as do aluminum, brass, and leather.

[Ondřej Borský]

Thanks! I thought about pitch, but then I didn´t know how to hold the pitch

[Stephen Olivo]

Depending on the piece that you want to do changes how you hold it. My main stay is a bowling ball half with pitch on the flat face and the round sitting in a lawnmower tire probably like a back one from a push mower. If your working on knives like that a board that has edges or a slight hollow in it with a nailed on rib for the vice to hold will be more than enough (doesn't have to be wood could be metal also). Just remember you can't try to take too big a bight. The pitch will let you know by releasing your piece. Which is the better option for the force to go. Heat pitch back up and restick it. I have had large cold chisels brake because I took to large a bight and something had to fail to absorb the hammer blow. Only needed that lesson once.

 

Here is the what I am using right now. Ignore the sword it was a mild steel project I am still helping my father finish. Its meant as a wall hanger. We started it when I was in 8th grade so sentimental value only and well an excuse to talk to my father as well

https://plus.google.com/photos?partnerid=gplp0&pid=5947416612104309522&oid=108205902509248083781

[Miles Hebbard]

I've been thinking about pitch and decided a flat steel plate edged with angle iron (to contain the pitch) with another welded to the base (to clamp in a vise, or screw to a bench top) would be suitable! Now I'll have to make it!

[VaughnT]

Miles, if you go that route, be sure to use a stub of round stock for the part that goes into the vise. The angle iron will work, but it fixes the plate in one orientation. As you're working, it can often be very nice to turn, swivel or angle the work piece so you can get a better, more comfortable hit with the hammer. Either the work piece moves or you have to move, that's why you see a lot of the "pro" vises on swiveling stands.

[tsterling]

You don't need anything fancy for holding something large like a knife blade.

 

Above is a large wooden pitch block (I'm guessing about 12 inches square) with pitch built up on top. This one is used by Ford Hallam, who carves/chisels exceptional Japanese-style metalwork. This block might have hollows cut in it and lead poured in to increase it's weight if the block doesn't have enough mass to resist your chisel blows.

You would do well to check out what he and other talented metalworkers do on: http://followingtheironbrush.org Do a search for pitch and pitch bowl on the forum, and you should find a lot more information. Ford also has some very helpful videos if you look for them there.

 

This information is from my posting Simple Engraving for Knifemakers, found here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24166&hl=

 

A cheap heat gun works very well for mounting and unmounting blades from pitch.

 

Good luck!

 

Tom

[Miles Hebbard]

Thanks guys, I'm now thinking of a slice of log! My neighbour has a chainsaw I can borrow...maybe with a thick dowel anchoring it to the bench! I'll mess with it soon!

[Ondřej Borský]

I´d also like to thank for all those intriguing ideas! I believe that you´ve made my next plating a lot easier!