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Spike hawk


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Guest guest T

This is my version of a tomahawk. the blade is 3 inches long and is based loosly on the dane axe. the spike is also meant to be used as a pickaroon. I want it to be useful as a small axe as well but this design itself would only be about .7 of a pound so I may go for a longer blade that gets thinner more gradually. the handle would be 1 inch by 18 inches probably round. I am currently working on forging a round drift from a 1.5 inch round bar which will take a large amount of fuel and time to finish forging. I am planning on using solid 1 inch barstock to make these becuase I don't think I could reliably forge weld a cutting edge on. I would like to know if there are any problems with my design. I would also like advice on how to make the eye, should I use a straight chisel to slit and drift or should I drill a hole in the material then drift?

1512397_577999085603249_1784240541_n.jpg

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I feel the cheeks of the axe poll are a bit overpowering next to the axe blade itself.

 

Accept my offering of sub-par photoshop skills as a minor suggestion

 

1512397_577999085603249_1784240541_n.jpg

 

This is just a simple doodle of what I think would enhance the look and feel of your axe, feel free to disregard or alter it further. You've got a good project here.

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Not really a tomahawk, IMHO, but a nice axe design. This is a pretty ambitious project, you might try a ball pein hammer as a starting place, which would save you the trouble of drifting an eye. It will also point out some of the trouble spots in making these before you tackle the project in all of it's glory.

 

OTOH, you could just dive right in, depends on the kind of smith you are.

 

Geoff

"The worst day smithing is better than the best day working for someone else."

 

I said that.

 

If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly.

- - -G. K. Chesterton

 

So, just for the record: the fact that it does work still should not be taken as definitive proof that you are not crazy.

 

Grant Sarver

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Guest guest T

I agree that the cheeks are to big but I would like to either keep the axe blade symetrical or the top flat so I will probably just make the cheeks smaller.

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I've never considered a handle with a round cross-section a very good idea on a tool with an edge. I'd suggest an oval shape, or tear-drop even. Something where you know which way the edge is facing in the dark... :ph34r:

George Ezell, bladesmith

" How much useful knowledge is lost by the scattered forms in which it is ushered to the world! How many solitary students spend half their lives in making discoveries which had been perfected a century before their time, for want of a condensed exhibition of what is known."
Buffon


view some of my work

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