tormentchris Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 i just finished a bearded axe and i'm ready to heat treat it. i made the body out of mild steal and the bit out of a piece of leaf spring. i've always quenched my blades in canola oil, i've heard that i can also use sae 30 motor oil. i was wondering how well mixing canola oil with motor oil. the only reason i am wondering is because i have a couple courts here and i'm kinda low on the canola oil. any advise appreciated. -chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Olivo Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 you have two different oils. If you have used canola and found it works well for this kind of steel then I would stick with it. There is no telling how the other oil might change things. That being said you have an unknown steel so all bets are off. "Remember to live life to the fullest and without regret for the joy of life is that it ends." Me http://ipneto.deviantart.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.H.Graham Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 It'll ruin the oil much faster, as the motor oil breaks down quickly, it'llmtake the veg oil with it. They don't mix well in my expirience. Randal www.rhgraham.simpl.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott A. Roush Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 just quench it and test it. http://www.bigrockforge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Spurgeon Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I use a mix of Hydraulic oil and chainsaw Bar & Chain oil (1 gallon of hydraulic to 1 quart of B&C). The hydraulic oil is very similar to canola oil in viscosity, but the B&C oil is much thicker than a 30 weight motor oil. I find that they mix well when mixed at a standard pre-heat 160 deg F and I haven't had any issues with separation once they have been mixed. The additives in the B&C oil definitely slow the thermal break-down process. I also think it helps pull heat faster, but I can't really prove that. My real point for you, I would try mixing a pint or so of canola with whatever ratio of W30 you would need in the full batch and try stirring with a 1/4 " mild steel rod at a red heat. That should give you a clear picture of how they would respond as a quenchant without ruining your whole tank. If the stirred oil looks fairly uniform and didn't do anything unexpectedly nasty in reaction to the hot mild steel, then I would say go for it full bore. Hopefully that works for you. James Courage is resistance to fear, mastery of fear - not absence of fear. Except a creature be part coward it is not a compliment to say it is brave. ~Mark Twain SageBrush BladeWorks (New website is in limbo...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Norris Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 The bit of leaf spring, if it is 5160, should harden in just about any oil. The bit of leaf spring, if it is something in the 10xx series, is more of a crap shoot and a faster oil would be better. ~Bruce~ “All work is empty save when there is love, for work is love made visible.” Kahlil Gibran "It is easier to fight for one's principles than to live up to them." - Alfred Adler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerrod Miller Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 So Chris, how did it turn out? And what did you end up doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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