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Bill Kirkley

KMG Grinder Modification

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I went to the ABS Symposium in Clyde, NC and had a blast. Being a beginner I went to the sessions that were about the basics. One session was by Chris Williams of Wilmont Grinders ( wilmontgrinders.com ). His grinder has three slots for accepting the grinder attachments, tool rests, and tables. It is a bit of a chore loosening the two bolts to slide the table on and off my KMG grinding attachments so I decided to add a slot to my grinder.

 

I purchased the cold roll steel from a local supplier (Metal Supermarket). I got a piece of 1/2 X 1 1/2 X 22 inch cold roll flat bar. and 3 X 1/2 X 11 inch cold roll flat bar. I wanted 2 1/2 wide flat bar but they did not have it. I decided to keep it at 3 inches width so it sticks out 1/4 inch on each side. The cost for those two pieces was about $35.00. I cut them down to three pieces 10 7/8 inches long each. I also purchased a piece of cold roll 1 1/2 inch square bar for about $35.00.

 

It was a fun project. I attached photos including my drawing. If anyone decides to make one, don't forget that the holes in the uprights are .0125 inches off center. I marked the inside so I would put it together correctly. I now have to make a table.

LR Grinder modification 01.jpg

LR Grinder modification 02.jpg

LR Grinder modification 03.jpg

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Bill,

 

I was there also. Chris has a great grinder. Waiting for him to have more in stock now in April so I can get one God willing. That's a great looking modification you have done to you KMG. Looks a little like Chris' Little Buddy 2 slot machine. Very nice!

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So I see that it's taller with an extra slot, but what does it do different than my kmg? Sorry I'm slow lol

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Thanks George. I am sorry I missed meeting you.

 

DNTFXR: As you know on the KMG grinder the table attaches by two bolts. With the modified configuration you just slide the square bar in the bottom slot. It is very easy to adjust. To change the table from horizontal to vertical young just turn the bar 90 degrees.

 

Go on youtube and look up Wilmont grinders or go to the Wilmont website, you can see how versatile this configuration is.

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Ah I see now, yes that is very nice indeed! Will be much quicker and more versatile. Nice job, and thanks for explaining to me. :)

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Thanks for that, Bill, I had to look at the Wilmont website myself to figure out just what you had done. Rob over at Beaumont used to offer an adjustible-height toolrest, but said nobody was buying them. I wanted one but couldn't afford it at the time. I like your solution better anyway!

 

There is a similar modification called a M.A.P.P. arm, Dave Stephens has one.

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I sure miss my kmg, if rob would pull his head out of his butt and ship to Canada I would buy another one.

 

I guess it's too much trouble to bother with Canadians.

Not to mention owning one for 7 years and helping him sell at least a dozen to people who used mine in classes.

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Randal, why don't you find an intermediary shipper (blacksmithing friend) in the US who would forward it up to you? Heck I'd do it but there's gotta be someone closer to the both of you...

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Alan, I ran across a thread by the designer of the MAPP arm/table. It is a neat attachment. It looked like he was selling a few tables at one point. Chris's design does about the same thing. His table top is not as detailed as the MAPP table top.

 

I am in the middle of making my table and arm. I am pretty much copying Chris's design. I will post a picture when I finish. I also like the light he has. I found one on MSC-direct and will add that as well. The lighting in that part of my shop is terrible.

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Here is the finished attachment. Now I need to make a knife!

LR Grinder table 01.jpg

LR Grinder table 02.jpg

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I forgot to mount the light! When I started trying to decide how to mount it, it did not look like it would be easy. It needed to be more to the front, and I did not see how that could happen. Then I realized I could easily mount it to the tensioning arm. It was easy and I think will not be a problem there. Now I have to figure out how to run the cord without getting it caught in moving parts.

LR grinder light 1.jpg

LR Grinder light 2.jpg

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Great job! The lamp in particular is an essential grinding aid, I feel.

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Thanks guys. If anyone wants to convert their KMG to a two slot grinder they might get KMG to sell them the three plates. All you would have to do is drill out the two middle threaded holes in the horizontal plate. You might also want to drill and tap the middle of the left vertical plate to move the second handle back a bit. The attachments can be purchased from Wilmont Grinders. I got my handles from MSC-Direct.

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Randal, why don't you find an intermediary shipper (blacksmithing friend) in the US who would forward it up to you? Heck I'd do it but there's gotta be someone closer to the both of you...

 

cause Rob will only ship to an american address with a credit card with the same address...........fortunately for me I have a sister in Seattle who helps with this sort of confusion and misconception about shipping to Canada...........its really simple actually.......we ship to Canada from 11 US offices on a daily basis.......that said thank you for the knife suppliers south of the border that do ship to Canada, our resources are limited and we certainly do appreciate it !! cheers

 

Rob..........

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Not sure if this is a faux pas, resurrecting a thread this old or not, but my questions pertain directly to this modification...

 

Through a series of truly unique circumstances, I find myself in possession on an almost unused KMG, and I can't tell you how jazzed I am to be able to finally free myself of the infernal Wilton Square Wheel which I've had hanging about my neck like that proverbial sailor's albatross. I need to make a heap of alterations to get it how I want it, including adding a C-face mount to the base plate to use my current motor and vfd setup. Seeing the add-on socket here, this is a huge no-brainer. Thanks for sharing the idea - already have steel on the way to do it!!!

 

My question really pertains to your home-made arms, though. Did you just drill a .750" hole and run with it for the tool posts, or did you drill undersize and use a chucking reamer to get the holes truly round? Also, did you just cut the relief slots out with a saw and clean up with files, or did you mill them in? Seems like this isn't too much work to do, especially because I need to acquire a heap tool arms for all the wheels and attachments I've got. Why not make them, right? The material is certainly inexpensive enough, and even if I have to order a couple of purpose-specific bits, it'll be worth it in the long run to invest this way, I'd think.

 

Sorry again for resurrecting this, but thanks for any advice you can offer!!

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