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This Seax was inspired by David DelaGardelles drawings and Dave Stephens Seax knife. I have always loved Seax knives but could never find a blade shape that I liked. This one I like.

My idea in this sketch was to forge weld a piece of plain steel with a piece of Damascus steel at an angle, much like patterned welded knives, but different in the sense that the Damascus is not part of the cutting edge. Is there any reason this would not work? I have never seen this blade steel design/composition on any other knife.

How could I keep this weld in a straight line?

I am also looking for handle and "guard" material suggestions. I am thinking some type of wood and a bronze guard/fittings.

What Damascus pattern would look good with this knife? I am unfamiliar with the names of specific patterns.

image.jpg

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Here it is from a different angle. I think it looks better from this angle. :)image.jpg

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I usually prefer random Damascus but the way that the rest of the knive looks you're going to probably want something a little more 'organized'. That's just my opinion but if you have enough material id probably put together a random and another kind and look at it with the other pieces (handle, guards, etc.).

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Thanks M. Cochran. I am going for a little more of a rugged feel, so random Damascus patterns would probably work. I want this to be a useable knife and if I make it too pretty I won't use it. Haha.

I hadn't thought of using multiple patterns stacked on top of each other. That would look good, I think.

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I didnt really mean stacking the patterns just making a couple and seeing which looked best with the res of the materials. Since you mentioned it though a stack might be nice. A twist pattern right next to the plain and another behind that.

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At an angle like that it would be very hard to weld, unless maybe you started straight and cut it at an angle... And there's net really a way a making a perfect straight line, if it were a stock removal knife it would be straighter, but still not perfect. And the small weld plain in your drawing due to the Spanish notch may cause a weak fire weld that could shear during heavy use. That said I like the design, not really as much of a seax as it is a fantasy bowie hybrid sort of knife with a little seax inspiration. Looks nice all the same though, let me know if you decide to follow through with the design, it's a good looking knife and David is one of my heroes, I absolutely love his work.

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You're right Collin. I have been rolling that thought about welding around in my mind. If I welded everything straight and then shaped it diagonally, that might work. There is a forge welding technique that I have seen where the scarfs are about the same angle as this would be. I am hoping to make this knife, but I have absolutely no experience actually making knives... yet. I have studied everything I can and I am pulling everything together to make a forge and start hammering. I am planning my creations far far in advance and I will stick with some simpler designs until I am ready to follow through with more complicated designs. I really appreciate the input.

By the way, what would make this knife more like a seax than a bowie? getting rid of the shelf in the blade or the circular notch at the blade handle transition?

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Inspiration for the blade: Dave Stephens' Grenovo Seax

Seax Dave Stephens 2.JPG

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Here is my suggestion. First learn to make knives. Second learn to weld damascus. Third learn to forge knives from damascus. I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but if you have not made a knife before then you are trying to bight off a real big chunk to chew trying for a damascus knife with a complex welding problem first time out of the chute. Be kind to yourself. Take it in smaller steps.

 

Doug

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Oh yeah, Doug. I totally get you. I just enjoy coming up with the designs and creating a style on paper. I will most definitely be starting simple. Thanks for the tips. I need all of them I can get. I have a couple of railroad spikes I will be experimenting on in the near future. It seems like that would be a good material and simplicity to work with. plus a simple handle design. Welding seems like it would take a little longer to master before I start doing something like the knife above.

 

JT

Edited by schaeffj
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If I were going to attempt something like that I'd make a thin veneer of pattern-weld and overlay it to the edge steel core, sort of a half-kobuse construction. Or san mai. Unless you're VERY good and willing to lose a lot of steel by grinding you will not get a perfectly straight line with the weld.

 

Ooh! Just thought of another option: selective etching. Make the whole blade damascus, then just mask off the part you don't want etched. Fingernail polish works well for this.

 

And yeah, it's a bowie-ish thing. Seaxes do not have notches, ricassos, or bits of the edge hanging below the handle, Dave's fine work notwithstanding. ;)

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I just had someone else recommend selective etching, too. It seems like the best way to go with this. It would keep it strong, but still give the look I want. Thanks Alan!

 

Are there any patterns that would look good with this?

 

Are there any whitish woods that would work well for a knife handle? I think a lighter wood with a dark bronze guard would look descent on this.

 

JT

Edited by schaeffj
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Only you can decide what pattern you want (and are able to make). American Holly is pretty white, with a slight yellowish tinge on occasion. Some maple is fairly light-colored as well.

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Thank you Alan. I really appreciate the replies. They have been immensely helpful.

 

JT

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Maple, Hickory, Oak, Holly, Elm, and Red Bud are a few of many more readily accessible whitish woods.

Yeah, take Doug's word for it, you're going to need a while before you make PW, in my case three years... And dozens of RR spikes and some mono steel knives later, now I'm attempting PW. I don't want to discourage you from this wonderful art at all, it's just one of those "A day to learn, a lifetime to master." things.

Alan is right, selective etching would be the way to go for something like this.

To make it more like a seax, lose the Spanish notch, make the break angle to the tip more flat, bring the spine up more towards the break, bring the edge up a little, maybe move the break further down the blade, and make the blade flow into the handle better, then it'll look more like a seax. That said, there's nobody forcing you to make a seax, by all means make whatever you please, this is an art, not a science. However, if you're going for a seax, then make some changes and it'll be a seax.

Best of luck, man.

Edited by Collin Miller
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Thanks Collin. I am not discouraged in the slightest. :) From what I hear, pwelding is VERY difficult and I won't be attempting it for a while.

 

I am a big fan of seaxes, as are many here on the forum. I appreciate the tips on making it more like a seax, I wouldn't have known otherwise. I like the way the design turned out, but I was going for a seax so I will try to copy the design and make the necessary changes to make it a seax.

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Thanks Collin. I am not discouraged in the slightest. :) From what I hear, pwelding is VERY difficult and I won't be attempting it for a while.

Well, it can be difficult, or VERY difficult, depending on your experience, and your desired product, the possibilities in pw are limited only by one's imagination.

 

If you're going to make seaxes, more than anything I recommend looking at historical examples, this will help a lot. It's difficult for person1 to write something, with a picture in mind, trying to describe their picture to person2, and person2 read it and get the same picture that was in person1's head, if that makes sense.

Edited by Collin Miller
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Here are the modifications to make it more like a Seax. I did leave a little bit of a riccasso so that the blade could transition to the handle smoothly but other than that I followed the suggestions, I think. I also modified the handle a bit to accomodate for the thinner blade.image.jpgimage.jpg

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I am actually happier with the way it turned out with the modifications. :)

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Aha! I did it. I got the riccasso out! I feel accomplished. I just drew my first true Seax! (Insert squeal like a little girl) I'll feel so much better when I actually make one, but I'm good with this feeling for now. Thanks for the tips.

 

image.jpgimage.jpg

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