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Daniel Cauble

Just bought a power hammer!

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So i bought a 50# Murray mechanical hammer yesterday and will be transporting it to my shop next weekend. Cannot tell you guys how stoked i am to finally be on the bandwagon. The Murray is like an upgraded little giant in that it doesnt use babbit, but bronze instead.

 

This opens up a lot for my japanese blade smithing, bloom iron, pattern weld and even forging hammer endevours. I enjoy making hammer by hand, but with a power hammer i feel i can make them and actually sell them. Excited over those possibilities as well.

 

First hurdle for now is loading the hammer up and unloading in my shop. Will post pics later!

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Welcome to the club, and congratulations! It will open doors you never realized were there. Call a towing company and tell them what you have in mind. A lot of them double as riggers for heavy machinery. I paid $25 for a hook truck to come get my hammer out of my truck, set it on the wooden pad, and use the hydraulics and some 4x4s to push it to the right spot.

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I'm so jealous. I dream of using a power hammer. Maybe one of you guys who has one could adopt me.

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Bad pics, but all I had was my phone and some so-so lighting.

 

It is parked in my family's shop at the moment until I build the base this week.

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I'm almost ready to set up. Still at my family's shop (More tools
and, fab equipment, and helpful hands there). Spent the weekend doing
everything I can to be ready.


First, me and my brother on Friday cleaned this thing down of grease,

grime, dirt in every nook and cranny with used Varsol, wire brushes,
and rags (There is a lot of GOOD paint under all of that grime, and
nothing is really rusted at all!). Took the dies out and cleaned them
up. Cycled new grease in the front and front/side grease port. It was
originally grease, so I am sticking with it. Every bit of the old stuff
was still soft, and pushed out with Mobil One Synthetic red grease.
Inspected for cracks more thoroughly and found none.


Saturday I had my father in law who is an electrician, figure out the

motor and how to wire it up. It's an older motor that the previous
owner had completely re-built. I also dont play with electrical,
especially when I have family who are professionals with it. Got the
motor (87' GE Motor) running with ease, and it sounds like any brand new
Baldor I have ever heard running. Greased both bearings at the bearing
zurks as well.


Today, we figured out where the motor needed to sit with the

expensive belts I bought. They are really nice belts, but $34 a piece
hurt a little bit. Oh well. Kevlar coated belts from NAPA. Any way,
drilled through the huge motor mount and set it in place, and lowered
the bracket to tighten belts. Also set the foot pedal.


Then this evening after I was extremely happy with the progress made
and nearing completion, we decide to tighten the ram way/guides using
the adjustable shims that are found on Murray hammers. They didn't want
to move at first but eventually did with a few spurts of WD-40.
Howevever could not get the ram guide to not be too tight once it was
time to bolt them on. For the life of us, we could not figure out why
the ram ways were getting over tight. So we took the guides and the
shims off, and I went to the varsol tank and started to scrub with
scotch brite and 220 grit sand paper. Old grease stuck to it and rust
here and there came off. Cleaned the ram guide at the hammer as well.
Cleaned it all up, shiny as new and re-oiled. Had a time getting the
bolts to tighten and not get something crooked, which resulted in a
tight ram way. Figured out that the trick was to push out of the guides
as they were being tightened after the shims were set where we wanted
them. Managed to take some of the play out while leaving a tad left to
keep control at its peak. Either way, got to really know my machine in
that regard. Was scary at first, but very fulfilling and much needed.
Upon inspection, the guides have little to no wear or grooved. Looks
like the hammer was barely used. Was impressed Everything else on the
hammer is tight and smooth. Also replaced the bolts on the ram ways with
new grade 8 bolts to replace the originals, and replaced a jam nut on
one arm to match one I had to add that was missing on the other.


Now I need to figure out my base. I am not digging a foundation for

it, and it is going to be on a 4" slab. I want to build a short wooden
platform for it to sit on, with rubber on top of that to absorb more
noise. I have understanding and relatively far off neighbors, but I
don't want to push the issue. Once the base is decided and built, it is
getting hoisted into my shop.

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Edited by Daniel Cauble

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Nice hammer! Looking at all your pics of it, and comparing to my early 50 lb. Little Giant, many things about the moving parts became much more streamlined in design by the time yours was made. Better ram guide, better pitman arm, better toggle linkage, and I assume better bearings (brass bushings?) yet it still looks like an LG. I'll bet that thing hits hard!

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Thanks!Yea one of the Mayers brothers created this line of hammers. Replaced the babbitt with bronze, thank god!

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This is a reply to a section on FB. I had built a 4'x4' wooden base but didn't like it and have now decided on an overkill foundation.

Just wanted to update.

 

I have decided to go with a separate foundation. Tried out the hammer today on the wooden base, and the hammer really moved. Picked up the sides even. Could honestly tie the base down, but we feel it is too much for my unknown thickness garage floor. Given a few things I have noticed in the past, I doubt it is over 3-4" thick. Don't really feel comfortable with that thickness.

 

I have free access to gas powered chop saws with 14" diamond blades, gas powered tamps, plenty of rebar, and my job already requires me to dig ditches and holes by shovel, and use all of this equipment already. So I am going to dig a 3'x4'x32"(depth) hole. Pour in and tamp 6" worth of gravel, build a cage and possibly make a sleeve for the Grade 8 threaded rod to go into described here at post #4, (that way I can slide hammer into place without having to pick it up over threaded rod, or if a bolt breaks): http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/18873-power-hammer-foundation-help-needed/

 

I really wanted a foundation originally. I have felt my floor vibrate and even things fall off shelves in my shop when swinging my 12# sledge for striking. The isolation will further help with sound. I also plan on using the same stall mat between hammer and floor given the cast line.

 

A lot to ponder on the next few days. Plan on using 5000psi concrete with the fiber and superplasticizer.

 

Had to also order a new motor for the hammer today. The motor that came with the hammer was bunk for the size. I should have tested it before buying. On the other hand the price was very fair with or without the motor. Now I have a re-built pre-1952 1.5HP 1740rpm GE motor to sell, and a heavy duty, double capacitor 3hp 1750rpm Marathon on its way with a 1.125 shaft.

 

Today's finding were a PITA.

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The clicking is the motor.

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Some work done today. 27" for the night. Going to around 32-34 tomorrow. Overkill is my middle name.

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Apologies all. Didn't mean for this to become a WIP. Had a little extra energy in me and went 36" instead. Will tamp in 6" of gravel sometime early this week and build a cage.

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Edited by Daniel Cauble

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Never apologize for making a WIP!

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Made my cage and welded on sleeves for 3/4" threaded rod. Fit into hole well, of which I lined in plastic. Poured in 5000psi concrete with fiber thrown in the mix. Everything lines of perfect with minimal grinding where the forms were.

 

Now the 30 day wait.

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Waiting on concrete to cure. Tried out the new motor. Need to adjust the belts a but more to reduce the sideways travel of one. Hammer is a bit floppy on this platform.

 

Also will know for sure once it is bolted to my floor, but a hear a little bit of slop at the front bushing on the drive shaft. May need to see about getting some bronze machined out.

 

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You might want to check the bottom of the spring and the top of the tup to see if the tup is hitting it on the upstroke. This is a Very Bad Thing if that's what I'm seeing there. Tightening the toggle arm bolts will fix that.

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Will check that for sure.

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Only issue is..how tight is too tight??

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Almost there my friend!!!!

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Only issue is..how tight is too tight??

Good question. The toggle arms should be as close to horizontal as possible. What I have heard about Little Giants is to start with the arms hanging slightly down, then tighten until no longer sagging. If the tup hits the spring, tighten a turn or two and try it again. Once there is no longer any contact between tup and spring, add one more turn and lock the nuts.

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Thanks Alan you just answered some questions I had about setting up my own hammer :D

 

Also your Hammer looks awesome!

Edited by MLenaghan

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Good question. The toggle arms should be as close to horizontal as possible. What I have heard about Little Giants is to start with the arms hanging slightly down, then tighten until no longer sagging. If the tup hits the spring, tighten a turn or two and try it again. Once there is no longer any contact between tup and spring, add one more turn and lock the nuts.

 

 

Clifton Ralph, noted power hammer guru mentions tightening the toggles until they are pointing slightly upward . I have experienced this with thr gold hammer i built.

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Thanks guys. I just tightened it, and it isn't hitting the spring with the toggle arms slightly upward.

 

Once it is mounted tight and I can full throttle use it without having to slow it down, will know for sure.

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The toggles will come together and compress the spring on the way up as well as down.

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Its been a few days but wanted to update, that I finally got a window for help to bring my hammer home. 34 days of curing for the concrete.

 

Took a backhoe to get it off the trailer and bring to edge of building and then push in close to the studs. Then used an engine hoist to set into place. Ended up bending the hydraulic shaft to the engine hoist, and rigged a big ratchet strap holding the cylinder to the frame of the hoist to avoid any more bending. Without that fix, it would still be sitting unmounted. Was a pita, but the pita is over. It is mounted, and will be wiring up tomorrow. Should be in it full force by the weekend.

 

Went ahead and bought some real 1018 from a local supplier to try some more san-mai kitchen knives. No more A36 for the jacket!

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Nice lookin hammer. I wouldn't call a Murray an upgrade over a little Giant, but still a good ahhmer. ;)

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