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I forged this one more than two years ago, when a customer wanted a simple carbon steel slicer. The business was cancelled when much of the rough filing was already done, so the blade was thrown on a shelf and stayed until one of my friends found it. He liked the shape (just as me), and told me that I should do something with it. My workshop went through quite a development in that period and finishing the blade was a fraction of the work it would have been two years earlier, so I decided to make a decent kitchen knife for myself.


There are a number of things that I would do differently. The blade should be thinner, I should have left more of the forged surface, and I swear I will never ever use leather for spacers again. Still, looking at it makes me satisfied.


Blade is Uddeholm Arne (around 60 HRC), handle is cherry wood with black leather spacers and fully hidden pin design. OAL length is 290 mm.


Let me know how you like it. Thanks for reading!








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I like it! I am going to assume it has hidden pin construction?? Leather for spacers, something tells me that was a be - otch! It is different though and when you think about that minute it is not all that different from a stacked handle. Want to let us in on how the securing of the leather went down! :P

C Craft Customs ~~~ With every custom knife I build I try to accomplish three things. I want that knife to look so good you just have to pick it up, feel so good in your hand you can't wait to try it, and once you use it, you never want to put it down ! If I capture those three factors in each knife I build, I am assured the knife will become a piece that is used and treasured by its owner! ~~~ C Craft

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I'm with Josh, I would like to know about the hidden pins. I love the sleek simple design to the handle. I might have to try somethin like that one time. It's more elegant than what mine tend to look.

Michael Cochran

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Thanks for the comments. The hidden pin is actually no big deal. The tang had a number of holes, which were copied to the handle scales. These blind holes were then filled with epoxy along with the holes in the blade, followed by gluing on the scales. When cured, I got a number of epoxy pins which are supposed to keep everything in place. I could have used solid pins, but my experience is that cured epoxy alone is strong enough to withstand the abuse.

However, this is my first experiment with this method, so only time will tell. Also, if anyone has a good method for this, I would love to know it.

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