John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 8, 2015 Today I started my KITH project, I'm still working on the actual design for the build, but figured I should start my billet now... Yep, all hands in, (my own two that is) making a pattern weld by hand hammer for this! Starting with four layers of 1095, and three of 15N20, for a seven layer first weld. Here goes nothing!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLenaghan 56 Posted February 10, 2015 On the plus side puukko's are small, if Bowies had won think of all steel you'd have to forge out then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Drew it out and squashed it some... Cut in half eith a hacksaw, and cleaned. Tack welded to either side of a longer piece of 15N20, to make a integral handle for it, tired of the one i tacked on falling off, and wanted to seperate the 1095 on the outside of either piece ... All going well I'll have 15 layers here... I wouldn't dare attempt a billet large enough for a bowie without a small hand hydro/screw/fly-press... Never done more than a small mokume block for a ring. Wish me luck and keep your fingers crossed! Edited February 10, 2015 by John Kruse-Kanyuck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 11, 2015 I managed to get it drawn out, cut, stacked, and welded a few times today, starting from 15 layers, and now I have somewhere in the neighborhood of 90. I don't know how much was lost to grinding! tomorrow will see two more folds, an attempt at crushed W's, and a twist. Hoping to end with a knife blank by the evening. Wish me luck! a test etch at 15 layers to tease. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 11, 2015 just a quick update: I am trying to get the layers to squash some, and wanted to check the progress on it... Just a see bit on two corners, alot to go yet. here's the result at around 42-45 layers, depending on how much has been lost Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Josh Brannen 2 Posted February 12, 2015 I like that pattern! It looks like water flowing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks! I'm digging it so far but I really want to push myself to do alot of things I've never done before. So far it's all going too well! Hopefully it keeps going too well. Lol! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GEzell 134 Posted February 12, 2015 You have my greatest admiration for doing this without a press or power-hammer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 12, 2015 Thank you, GEzell! That means alot. It's hard work, but having seen it done, I knew it wasn't impossible! I'm willing to try anything to broaden my views on such a wonderful, passionate craft I've found myself so holed into. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 14, 2015 Here's a quick update on the progress: I started at 40-45 layers today, and drew out to a square bar about 7.5 inches long. I forged it into decahedra and then back to square, hoping to make some really neat waves in the layers. After forging to square, I estimated the halfway point (admittedly I was 1/8 inch or so off) made a cut, folded and welded to make 90 layers. This was my very first cut/fold/weld and it was a success! I drew this back out, and cleaned up the bar; after cleaning, cut into three pieces for what should be 270 layers. This are high estimates from my starting point, I'm sure I've lost 5-15 layers from using the clean and cut, to restack and tack welding method. I will have pictures of a test etch later tonight! I do not plan on making this any higher of a layer count, so I'd better start designing my blade... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 15, 2015 Well, I got my 270 layers solid, made a decahedra, and twisted the heck out of it... I've been left with a 9 inch long square bar, about 1/4x1/4. This means I will have to make one more stack to get the dimensions I need. I'm debating making a single file stack, or a square stack. Any suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 15, 2015 Well, as inexperience would have it, I messed up! After getting it welded up, I simply could not reach the dimensions needed for the intended project, so at something ridiculous like 1800 layers (if my math's are correct and I didn't lose a single layer from start to finish (yeah right)); I will set this little billet to the side... I have made a new batch, and am stopping at 45 layers twisted. From this I have welded on a 1095 tang, and to keep thickness, work mostly by stock removal. I will be using a purchased bit of feather style Damascus to make the guard and pommel cap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLenaghan 56 Posted February 16, 2015 Thats too bad about your first billet, but there's alot you could still do with it! make it the cutting edge and throw some wrought iron on the spin? make a san mai with it as the core, or even the sides with a mono steel core! After all that hammering I think you should use it, and have a beer! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 16, 2015 I literally have no stock left after this second bit. There 2 inches of 01 T.S. But that's for a neck knife... I'll use that first piece I made to make myself a woodcarving knife and be happy I get to keep it, sentiment and all the junk. today I'm going to decide what wood to use on the handle, and cut the wax off to start curing it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 17, 2015 Just to show it off a little, here's the whittling knife I'm working on with the first batch, and the new start with its profile cut. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 17, 2015 Filing, lots of filing, then a bit of grinding, and a bit more filing. Then a little more grinding... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 19, 2015 I finished taking it to 600 grit and through a scotchbrite wheel I've fitted to my drill press as an impromptu buffer. I hardened it today, using a new trick I learned to help keep the heat more even, and scale from forming. I used a length of black iron pipe, squashed slightly to fit the blade in two inches away from either opening, crimped one end shut, and laid it in the forge to heat up; once the pipe was nice and even, I wrapped the blade in a piece of paper and stuck it into the pipe. After soaking I followed up with normal quench, and repeated for some refinement. The file skated nicely. I then tempered at 400*F for 2 two hour cycles, ramping up, and down. Here is the result for you to gander at. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Christopher Price 22 Posted February 22, 2015 For what it's worth, that's about the size of the knife I'm making for this trade - it's not inappropriate to the form at all. Maybe not your intended design, but certainly not "too small". A smaller pukko is easier to control in the hand than a large and unwieldy one. regardless, your welds look good, and I like that slow twist flow it has. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) Hey Christopher, the first billet I welded up, I was only at about a half inch wide, and maybe two inches long, that's the one I was calling too small... My second go, stopping at 45 layers I was left with significantly more material and had no problems reaching 3 inches of blade. Thank you for the compliments on my welds and pattern! Edited February 22, 2015 by John Kruse-Kanyuck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grpaavola 29 Posted February 22, 2015 Ooo... I like! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted February 23, 2015 Thank you, Grpaavola! I've brought the blade to 400 grit, and am leaving it there for now to make any marring I may create during fit and finish easy to remove, and have started work on a 15N20 guard, as it is the only material I have to use as of now. I'd had two small pieces of feather pattern to use for guard and pommel cap, but they both split on a bad weld during drilling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted March 17, 2015 Here it is etched, with the top of the guard (15n20) polished, and sitting in its handle (black and white ebony) I used brass as a spacer, and pin. In a few more hours (20 or so) I will give the handle it's final shape and polish the sides of the guard. I'd love to be able to do a sheath but am super broke after making this guy, and some other personal projects. I don't see myself able to afford leather any time soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted March 22, 2015 I felt it was unbalanced to the eye, so I added a pommel cap in the same fashion as the guard. Just a few more grits to run through then oiling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Kruse-Kanyuck 1 Posted March 26, 2015 Mostly finished, just some touching up on the sheath, and making the loop and loop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
