"river eddy" pattern wip

[MatthewBerry]

Thanks Kevin - great thread. I love to see other people's process.

[Justin Mercier]

Dont forget the best gap closing tool in your arsenal for the long parallel sides ... a BFH all the guards that Iv'e done before, i've had no access to a mill or anything, and the eye can see clearly just a couple thou difference in space around the riccaso area... so I solved it with a big f@#%ing hammer side blow closed it up tight so you couldn't even see a line =) Could probably do the same with a shop press and some arbor plates if you dont want to use percussive force =)

[Kevin Colwell]

Justin,

thanks for that. I will resort to that after I thin it a little (lot actually) on each side. If I do, I will probably use my hydraulic press.

 

The fun part (other than pattern welding) is still to come. Shaping, with rasps, filing, polishing, carving a little, then more polishing.

 

The ebony is quite, "chippy." I am only going to carve a few lines to echo the pattern on the blade, to be safe.

 

Matt - this method is pretty simple so far, except for the guard part. I really do like the potential for this method, although I have to learn some more. Well, and the mosaic pattern weld. But, we can all pattern weld pretty well.

kc

Edited March 9, 2015 by Kevin (The Professor)

[Kevin Colwell]

Daniel,

the rough sketching you can see in grease pencil on the first picture of the ebony is sort of an over-sized outline. I want to cut that out, and then do the final shaping from there. Otherwise, I have been known to cut too close to final lines, and then by the time I have polished and all, I am below the line and it doesn't look right.

 

kc

[Kevin Colwell]

Still going...

 

working on the guard with this series, and doing some prelim handle shaping.

 

 

Here, I am making the finger notch in the guard and knife handle with a round file.

 

 

Showing the shaping that remains to be done.

 

 

using a needle file with a half-round side to clean up the finger notch on the guard.

 

 

Rasping the ebony with this cheap but really good rasp that I have. It has a sort-of half-round side, and a flat side.

 

 

I like to follow that rasp with this half-round file. It does great at cleaning up the big gouge marks. You would be surprised (I always am) at how well a mill file takes wood off, and also how nice of a finish it leaves. It is sort of like 200 grit abrasive paper, or so. But, it doesn't wear out and it sort of burnishes the wood, too. Works great.

 

I love the disk sander for careful shaping.

 

 

This is the basic finishing equipment for the guard. Safe-edge smooth-cut file (6") and what used to be another of the same. On the second one, I have ground all of the teeth off, and I just use it for backing sandpaper when I polish.

 

 

Takes effort to file a curved groove with a file, but you can do it. Alan Longmire, if you read this, you told me to try this years ago. Good trick.

Edited March 1, 2015 by Kevin (The Professor)

[Kevin Colwell]

More on the guard.

 

 

 

 

Handle shape is getting closer. I have to get the transition to the finger notch smoothed out. Then, I have to adjust the bottom lines just a bit (maybe more than a bit). The top line is just about done, but I am going to trip a little off to drop it in the back some.

There isn't any glue on this yet, so the guard will be driven a little farther on in the final knife. Still, it is coming along.

 

It is the general shape I was going for. I haven't rounded the bottom of the handle yet. I like to set the silhouette, then do the other planes or angles or whatever I am doing.

 

I am open to advice. I am generally aiming to have the bottom line parallel the top line, except for the finger notch, and maybe I want a more exaggerated flair on the heel at the bottom relative to the drop at the top (or I may just parallel it).

 

 

The ebony looks strangely light in this pic. It is somewhat darker in person. The wood still has to be polished, and then I am going to carve a few grace lines on it.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking. I hope you have enjoyed this so far.

 

I am learning with each step, and that is the best part.

 

comments, advice, etc. are welcomed.

 

take care,

kc

Edited March 1, 2015 by Kevin (The Professor)

[Dennis Mitchell]

Looks really great. Thanks for the ride-along, I learn so much on every build here.

[Alan Longmire]

Nice groove! I love good files.

[Niels Provos]

Neat. Thanks for all the process pictures. I always get a kick out of seeing all the refinements turning into the finished product.

[B. Norris]

To my eye, the line of the handle not following the line of the edge is distracting. Here is your original picture next to one hastily modified with paint, to illustrate.

 

 

 

~Bruce~

[Kevin Colwell]

Bruce,

I agree. If you read the post above that pic, I mentioned that I have not yet finished the bottom line. Your photoshop work is actually exactly what I plan to do with the handle, after I glue it up. I am leaving a little oversize top and bottom until after the glue is set, in case there is some kind of slippage.

 

The photoshop or whatever adjustment you did is nice to see though, thanks. It gives me a little more confidence in my plan. Thanks for taking the time to point it out and show me. That was kind of you. I plan to take just a hair off of the top on the last third near the butt, too.

 

Thanks Niels and Alan.

 

I am going to epoxy today and tomorrow I will get to final handle shaping and carving.

 

kc

[DanielQ]

It's coming along great, looking forwards to see how this turns out!

I hope you don't mind me saying so, but the back-end would benefit from.. Something.. I got this critique a lot from the elders that the beginning and end should have something distinct about it. Maybe round off the actual back so the "end" line comes a bit forward towards the handle? Thus making the back more visible in profile and creating a sharp transition line. Hmm.. That doesn't make much sense.. I'll see if I have the time tomorrow to take some pictures or make a drawing, sorry, in a bit of a hurry now.

//DQ

[Collin Miller]

Looks awesome!

I agree with Daniel that the butt of the handle just needs something. I hate to sound like, "I'm not sure what, but just don't do that." Maybe a bit of a spur or something on the end just to give it a little more flare.

Excited to see how it comes out though!

[Kevin Colwell]

Daniel and Collin,

don't feel bad for lacking precise words. I think I am in agreement with what you are trying to say. I am going to drop the line a bit and put the final shaping on the back, still. I haven't come up with exactly what I want to do with it, either. Right now, it is sort of like a golf club, but that is not my final destination. Still just getting there.

 

The epoxy is drying, and there was a little shift in the glue up. However, I left everything just a tad oversized, so it doesn't hurt. When everything is set, and I can get some more shop time, I will finalize the shape and start polishing.

 

I can only take a little off of the back in terms of length, but I plan to make the curve sharper and more angled towards the forward as it slants from top to bottom, which will lose a lot of extra bulk on the bottom by the heel, but still have the heel end up in the same place.

 

thanks for taking time to comment.

kc

[DanielQ]

Oh aye, I've very very nearly botched up when glueing on a fully finished and engraved knife handle recently... The blade slanted a bit in the hole and left the hole thing crooked. Always nervous when finishing handles before I glue em now because of that :-). Good thing you left a bit of material!

 

 

Anyway, I did a quick sketch this morning for the sake of discussion. It is likely it is not suitable for this knife in particular, this depends on the plans you have. And in general, I believe it is better to follow ones own plans while listening to others suggestions and thoughts, and then putting them into the next project if the points were good.

 

But this is something along the lines of what I was thinking. Just to try and create a not so sudden end, yet at the same time a bit more distinct.

 

//DQ

[DanielQ]

Oh shit, sorry! Forgot to cut the picture. The top sketch you can disregard, it is just a quickie I did on a different subject

 

//DQ

[Kevin Colwell]

Daniel,

thanks for taking the time to help me work through this process. I truly appreciate it. I like the shape of the end you suggested. The decorative filework at the end may or may not end up on this one. I have to see when I have the handle closer.

 

In general, though, I like that approach. I am planning to use some reindeer horn and silver on the next piece, and that sort of filework will be right at home.

 

I am also trying to build a better jig to hold things together at glue up. If not, then I will have to start putting hidden alignment pins. It is just that there is not a lot of wood around the tang hole, and putting little pins there would be very tricky.

 

thanks again for taking time to sketch.

 

kc

[Rich Bostiga]

Thanks for sharing all this. Wannabes like me learn a lot from threads like this. Gotta get going on building a forge. Have to wait for some of this snow to melt first.

[Kip Kaiser]

Wow Kevin not sure how I missed this!!! Awesome work brother you just get better and better!!!

 

Kip

[Kevin Colwell]

Thanks Kip.

Ok, this is the last round of pics for this one. Thanks for following along. I haven't ever made a thread this detailed, and it has been fun. I won't do it all of the time, but it is fun sometimes.

 

 

 

I have this huge round file/rasp, and I use it for getting radii. It would also make a good weapon if I can't get to one of the small hammers in time. Not that I ever think about these things, of course.

 

Cleaning up with half-round.

 

flat side of half-round for transition.

 

this will be refined a lot more with 200 grit paper backed by the smooth-ground old file. You can do a lot by changing how much paper is wrapped around a hard backing, to change the way it cuts.

 

Rasping the end to get a better curve.

doming the back.

 

This wraps up all of the major shaping. There was a lot done with abrasive papers, too. Mostly, I use 200 grit rhynowet with the file backing it (no teeth on the file anymore). With a lot of paper turned around the file, you can use it to smooth over ridges and facets that you don't want. With just one layer of paper, you can use it to emphasize ridges and facets that you do want (I know that almost all of you do that regularly. I am just including it because someone new may care).

[Kevin Colwell]

OK, this is it. I was going to carve the wood, but this ebony is quite chippy. Plus, I carve badly, and I don't want to ruin it.

 

The next one will have some decorative filework or carving. This one wants to be done, though.

 

Here is the other reason for no carving - I dropped the knife once, and a big chip came out of the handle at the heel. So, the heel, where I planned to do a lot of the filework and/or carving, is now much smaller than I originally planned. Not a lot of room to take things off.

 

Thanks for reading this far. It has been a fun process. I hope you liked sharing it with me.

I also hope you like the knife.

 

Comments are, as always, welcomed.

 

 

 

 

 

[DanielQ]

Well done good Sir. As I said before, the blade is fantastic, wouldn't mind using it myself. And thank you for sharing the process with us.

The whole thing came out really well. You did a very good job :-). I'm looking forward to seeing a sheath for it. And seeing what you come up with next, I'll stay tuned :-)

 

//DQ

[Kevin Colwell]

Daniel,

I owe you man! Thanks for giving input along the way, it really helped both technique and confidence. The next one will have reindeer antler and the filework you mentioned. I start polishing it today!

 

thanks for the critique and encouragement. They truly helped a lot. I am moving into a new style of work, and I needed your input.

 

kc