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Car wax in place of Ren-Wax?


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So I'm trying to chemically blacken/rust blue some mild steel quillons and a pommel for a dagger. Everything I've found has said to use Renaissance Wax to shine this stuff after boiling. I looked at the price of the stuff and balked a little. So I'm wondering if carnauba wax of some kind (McGuires? Turtle Wax?) would work as an alternative. If not I guess I'll just have to spring for the pricey stuff.

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Renaissance Wax was specifically developed for the museum conservation market, and it's a great wax, but in my opinion car wax is fine. I use car wax on most of my stuff because it seems to last longer than ren wax and it definitely stands up to fingerprints far better.

 

I'd be more worried about making sure the rust is truly done, I've had it start up again under the wax before. I oil first, let it sit around a few days to see if the rust is dead, then I wax after final assembly.

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I used Renaissance Wax when I first started too. These days I use KIWI Neutral Shoe Wax. It works like a charm.

 

My biggest issue as noted by Alan is that on rare occasion my rust bluing process is a little of and it rusts beneath the wax. Luckily I was able to disassemble the piece, clean it, and do the process again saving the piece.

 

I have also used a mixture of 65:35 beeswax to linseed oil with a teaspoon of turpentine. It worked but, required more maintenance than the other two.

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I know this isn't exactly what you were asking, but I thought perhaps it might be interesting to you. This is a test of 46 different rust preventatives that an individual put through their paces, and the results were eye-opening, to me. I thought perhaps it might be of help - hope so!

 

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Edited by Matt Gregory
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