R.W. Deavers 79 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 After quite a few failed attempts at making damascus style blades, I finally had one succeed. The steel used is 5160 spring steel and some medium carbon steel from the railroad. I have 64 layers total. The scales are made from Osage Orange, which is another first for me, and the pins are copper. I am rather pleased (and relieved) about how this one came out. Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff Hardy 16 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 I have always been told that 5160 is really hard to forge weld?! That is really cool Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 2,821 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 5160 is hard to weld to itself or other chromium alloys, but it welds to simple steels just fine. Link to post Share on other sites
R.W. Deavers 79 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 I really had to pay very close attention to the temperature for this. I just kept in mind what my dad always used to tell me, 'go slow and pay attention to what you're doing, not what's going on around you'. Thanks guys Link to post Share on other sites
BCROB 13 Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Nice job RW !! Alan in your opinion , what simple steel is best suited to weld with 5160 ? Rob Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 2,821 Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Nice job RW !! Alan in your opinion , what simple steel is best suited to weld with 5160 ? Rob Anything without chrome or nickel works fine. 1095, 1084, 1075, et cetera. The more manganese the darker the etch. I'd use 1084 just because the HT is more similar. 5160 likes a medium-fast quench and 1095 and 1075 like a really fast quench. 1084 can get full hardness in a medium-fast oil, so I'd use that for preference. It also etches darker. Link to post Share on other sites
BCROB 13 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Anything without chrome or nickel works fine. 1095, 1084, 1075, et cetera. The more manganese the darker the etch. I'd use 1084 just because the HT is more similar. 5160 likes a medium-fast quench and 1095 and 1075 like a really fast quench. 1084 can get full hardness in a medium-fast oil, so I'd use that for preference. It also etches darker. Thanks Alan......will let you know how it turns out , lots of 1084 Link to post Share on other sites
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