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Scraping fullers, before or after quench ?


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I'm going to make a fuller scraping tool, or a bo-hi thingy. Question is should I create the fuller before or after heat treat ? does it even matter ?

I'm about to start a Wakizashi which is going to be stock removed from O-1 ( it's what I've got in that kind of length, not what I'd like to use ) - I'm intending to make a an asymmetrical fuller on it - i.e. one side of the blade will be fullered, the other not. Could this cause problems with the blade warping when quenched ?

 


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Normally I'd say that with a Japanese sword, it is differentially hardened so the spine remains soft and you would cut the bo-hi after heat treat. With O-1 though your not going to be able clay the blade in the traditional manner, so I'm not sure how you would go about it.

Personally if I was attempting a Japanese style blade I would use a different steel, either W-2 or 1075, then you can get a nice hamon and carving the bo-hi won't be a problem.

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Normally I'd say that with a Japanese sword, it is differentially hardened so the spine remains soft and you would cut the bo-hi after heat treat. With O-1 though your not going to be able clay the blade in the traditional manner, so I'm not sure how you would go about it.

Personally if I was attempting a Japanese style blade I would use a different steel, either W-2 or 1075, then you can get a nice hamon and carving the bo-hi won't be a problem.

 

I do have some W-2, just not in that length. It's sort of a test piece really, to see if I'm ready to attempt to grind a short single edged sword, although I'd like to get a useable blade out of it. It's incredibly difficult to find any carbon steels here ( Spain ) except O-1 or drill rod\silver steel in small quantities, but that's a whole different story.

 

You have helped me talk myself out of scraping a fuller into it before quenching it, I'll go with the original plain shape and keep it simple.

 

So the general rule is a scraped fuller is done after heat treat then ?

 

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