Jump to content

Belt Grinder Issues


Ross Jones
 Share

Recommended Posts

After only a few years of use, my 4x36 Ryobi grinder is starting to give me issues. I was flat grinding something when it started to stall. I let up on the pressure, but it persisted even when grinding small 1/8" rod with light pressure. The stalling is continuous and gets to the point where the grinder stops moving but it keeps humming like it's trying keep going. This is making me think that it's something with motor. Anyone have any ideas what I could do to fix this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there a way to make them last longer? I want to do everything possible to avoid spending $2000+ on a grinder. I know there are plenty of plans out there for making one, but I don't trust my machining skills/ I'm intimidated by the prospect of building something like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's like using a wrench for a hammer, it works, but not very well. In the end those kind of grinders just won't do the job. You might look at these. I don't have any interest ($ wise or otherwise) in them, but I have used one and they are pretty well made. You need to provide a motor, step pulleys or a VFD, stand and other furniture. It's still a pretty good deal.

 

Geoff

"The worst day smithing is better than the best day working for someone else."

 

I said that.

 

If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly.

- - -G. K. Chesterton

 

So, just for the record: the fact that it does work still should not be taken as definitive proof that you are not crazy.

 

Grant Sarver

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ross i just spent 450 + shipping 75$ for a grizzly -- had it since friday its well worth the money in my opinion! I chose the grizzly over the coote simply because it was easier everything is provided and you just slap it together and start using it. The cootes do seem to be far more flexible in the ways you can use them. I just wish i had a 3/4" radius wheel attachment or some smaller wheels than just my drive wheel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would be surprised how simple it is to build a Moe's Grinder. Can you measure the length of the pieces needed? If not don't worry, they are not critical. Can you cut the pieces? Can you drill holes and tap the ones that need to be tapped? Now for the hard one, can you do some basic welding? If you answered most of these yes you can build the grinder for a little over $1,000.00including the VFD, motor, wheels and wiring kit. Go to the Grinders page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. If you are interested in grinders it would be worth the $45.00 DVD for the information contained.

Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
729 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
706-273-8017
waynecoe@highland.net
www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would anyone recommend the Grizzly knife grinder/buffer? I work here and there with an armor smith who uses one, but would it be good for grinding knives, swords, handle parts and fullers? Can the contact wheels be changed out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also you might be able to salvage the motor/grinder you have by blowing out the winding's with compressed air and checking/replacing the brushes if the bearings are in usable shape

7558

Brandon Sawisch bladesmith

 

eagles may soar but weasels don't get sucked in to jet engines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too have a Grizzley and for the price it has performed quite well.

WAXING MOON FORGE

 

 

The blacksmith and the artist

reflect it in their art

they forge their creativity

closer to the heart.

 

Rush

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking of getting the grinder that Dragon linked to on eBay and using the motor from my old grinder. It's only 3/4 HP but I can't afford the 1.5 from Harbor Freight right now. Thanks for all the help guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2184

only if you have 3 phase power in your shop if not that motor will cost you more to make work than getting a single phase in the first place

 

i just replaced a harbor freight motor that burnt up when the thermal protection failed i got it cheep since the start cap was shot i replaced the start cap twice before it burnt up with spotty performance even with quality replacement parts i replaced it with a new surplus center 5 hp motor i dont expect to have nearly the issues with it that i had with the hf motor

Brandon Sawisch bladesmith

 

eagles may soar but weasels don't get sucked in to jet engines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't go with either of those Brandon posted (sorry, dude!) because they are open housing. This means the steel dust and grinding grit WILL get into the housing, which will fry the motor in short order. Unlike the little 4x36 machines these things EAT steel.

 

Whichever motor you decide on be sure it has the letters TEFC in the description. That's Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled.

 

I'm running a 1.5 hp GE from Tractor Supply, it was $160 eight years ago or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...