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Ross Jones

Belt Grinder Issues

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After only a few years of use, my 4x36 Ryobi grinder is starting to give me issues. I was flat grinding something when it started to stall. I let up on the pressure, but it persisted even when grinding small 1/8" rod with light pressure. The stalling is continuous and gets to the point where the grinder stops moving but it keeps humming like it's trying keep going. This is making me think that it's something with motor. Anyone have any ideas what I could do to fix this?

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4x36 sanders are disposable. The bearings are not sealed since they are meant for wood. A couple of years of use on steel and the bearings sieze up.

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Is there a way to make them last longer? I want to do everything possible to avoid spending $2000+ on a grinder. I know there are plenty of plans out there for making one, but I don't trust my machining skills/ I'm intimidated by the prospect of building something like that.

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It's like using a wrench for a hammer, it works, but not very well. In the end those kind of grinders just won't do the job. You might look at these. I don't have any interest ($ wise or otherwise) in them, but I have used one and they are pretty well made. You need to provide a motor, step pulleys or a VFD, stand and other furniture. It's still a pretty good deal.

 

Geoff

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Ross i just spent 450 + shipping 75$ for a grizzly -- had it since friday its well worth the money in my opinion! I chose the grizzly over the coote simply because it was easier everything is provided and you just slap it together and start using it. The cootes do seem to be far more flexible in the ways you can use them. I just wish i had a 3/4" radius wheel attachment or some smaller wheels than just my drive wheel

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You would be surprised how simple it is to build a Moe's Grinder. Can you measure the length of the pieces needed? If not don't worry, they are not critical. Can you cut the pieces? Can you drill holes and tap the ones that need to be tapped? Now for the hard one, can you do some basic welding? If you answered most of these yes you can build the grinder for a little over $1,000.00including the VFD, motor, wheels and wiring kit. Go to the Grinders page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. If you are interested in grinders it would be worth the $45.00 DVD for the information contained.

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Would anyone recommend the Grizzly knife grinder/buffer? I work here and there with an armor smith who uses one, but would it be good for grinding knives, swords, handle parts and fullers? Can the contact wheels be changed out?

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Gabriel, where did you find it for $450? It's on the website for $500.

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Ross, Brandon's phone adds a random number to every post. Odd but meaningless.

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also you might be able to salvage the motor/grinder you have by blowing out the winding's with compressed air and checking/replacing the brushes if the bearings are in usable shape

7558

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I have one of the grinders dragon linked to on eBay. Fwiw, I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.

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I too have a Grizzley and for the price it has performed quite well.

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I was thinking of getting the grinder that Dragon linked to on eBay and using the motor from my old grinder. It's only 3/4 HP but I can't afford the 1.5 from Harbor Freight right now. Thanks for all the help guys.

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u can always upgrade motors later =\

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That was the plan. Money's just right around the holiday season.

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Dragon, are these motors more reliable than a one from Harbor Freight? I know about their iffy reputation but the 1.5 from them is a few bucks less.

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2184

only if you have 3 phase power in your shop if not that motor will cost you more to make work than getting a single phase in the first place

 

i just replaced a harbor freight motor that burnt up when the thermal protection failed i got it cheep since the start cap was shot i replaced the start cap twice before it burnt up with spotty performance even with quality replacement parts i replaced it with a new surplus center 5 hp motor i dont expect to have nearly the issues with it that i had with the hf motor

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I wouldn't go with either of those Brandon posted (sorry, dude!) because they are open housing. This means the steel dust and grinding grit WILL get into the housing, which will fry the motor in short order. Unlike the little 4x36 machines these things EAT steel.

 

Whichever motor you decide on be sure it has the letters TEFC in the description. That's Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled.

 

I'm running a 1.5 hp GE from Tractor Supply, it was $160 eight years ago or so.

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