Proper Knife Design

[DeWet]

Hello all,

 

I have only recently started bladesmithing. So recently in fact, that I have not even made my first blade. I am still gathering tools and equipment, but I already have an idea in mind for my first knife. I have drawn a neat(ish) design of what it will (hopefully) look like, but I am not up to standard with proper knife design. Attached is the drawing I made, but if anyone could give me any tips on how it should look, please tell me. I am most concerned with the area where the ricasso joins the tang, and the back of the knife, as well as the area where the ricasso turns into the blade. Please tell me if there is any improvements to be made to this drawing, which will eventually be my first knife.

 

[Daniel J. Luevano]

my only problem with the blade is its width seems pretty wide, but that may be a personal preference though as a skinning knife that would work nicely. The only other problem that may not be a problem is the fact the edge of the blade sticks out past the flat, unless you plan on putting a thick guard on it.

 

Here's a knife that is similar in design, as far as the blade goes

 

Typically the edge of the blade doesn't stick out like the one you've drawn unless there is a bevel between the edge and the handle.

 

Hope I could be of some help! But if you're able to get your knife to look anything remotely close to your drawing then you've done better than i did my first few knives haha. Good luck!

[DeWet]

Daniel J. Luevano,

 

I changed the drawing of my knife. Is this more like you have in mind?

 

*Edit: I have to admit, this seems a lot more like knives I have seen. My hunting knife (store bought, of course), has a bit that sticks past though.

Edited December 4, 2015 by DeWet

[Caleb Harris]

This tutorial might help? http://www.brokebladesmith.com/blog/2015/11/7/making-a-knife-design

[Caleb Harris]

Personally I like your first design more, just needs to be a little more "flowy"; start the taper earlier, or make the spine dive down either gradually or in a clip point. For the ricasso I'd make it a little narrower, so the cutting edge is more like a square's length lower than the ricasso.

[Joshua States]

my only problem with the blade is its width seems pretty wide, but that may be a personal preference though as a skinning knife that would work nicely. The only other problem that may not be a problem is the fact the edge of the blade sticks out past the flat, unless you plan on putting a thick guard on it.

 

Here's a knife that is similar in design, as far as the blade goes

skinnerknife.jpg

 

Typically the edge of the blade doesn't stick out like the one you've drawn unless there is a bevel between the edge and the handle.

No offense intended Daniel, but I must respectfully disagree.

The choil (area where the blade edge meets the ricasso is done a number of ways. It can be flush as you indicated, dropped as in DeWet's initial design or modified with a choil "hole". (see attached pic)

The reason for not joining the edge directly flush with the flat bottom of the ricasso area is for sharpening purposes. When the edge flushes out with the flat bottom of the ricasso, sharpening all the way to the end usually winds up scracthing the ricasso area or leaving a section of edge in a dull condition.

 

DeWet: The first drawing shows a tang that is not centered on the ricasso section. While this is not necessarily a problem, leaving too little space around the tang may cause other design issues depending on the handle. Speaking of which, finish the drawing by adding the handle shape and notes for materials, embellishments, etc. Leave the tang in the drawing and you will see what I mean. The second drawing has a long sweep from tang to the blade edge. This leaves no "shoulder" for the guard to rest against. That won't work either. Draw the handle and see what I mean.

 

What I mean by "choil Hole"

 

Typical "dropped choil"

[Wes Detrick]

No offense intended Daniel, but I must respectfully disagree.

The choil (area where the blade edge meets the ricasso is done a number of ways. It can be flush as you indicated, dropped as in DeWet's initial design or modified with a choil "hole". (see attached pic)

The reason for not joining the edge directly flush with the flat bottom of the ricasso area is for sharpening purposes. When the edge flushes out with the flat bottom of the ricasso, sharpening all the way to the end usually winds up scracthing the ricasso area or leaving a section of edge in a dull condition.

 

DeWet: The first drawing shows a tang that is not centered on the ricasso section. While this is not necessarily a problem, leaving too little space around the tang may cause other design issues depending on the handle. Speaking of which, finish the drawing by adding the handle shape and notes for materials, embellishments, etc. Leave the tang in the drawing and you will see what I mean. The second drawing has a long sweep from tang to the blade edge. This leaves no "shoulder" for the guard to rest against. That won't work either. Draw the handle and see what I mean.

 

This. I have to agree with Joshua. The first drawing was the better one. Sharpening an edge without a choil, or dropped edge completely sucks. You have this small crappy part you cant sharpen without messing up the ricasso as he said. Totally lame.

I took the liberty of converting your drawing into a digital one, and then making a few changes so you can see the differences in one picture. Hope you don't mind. If you are going to make the flush edge, I would seriously consider adding a choil.

Additionally, with your second drawing, there is almost no shoulder on the bottom part of the tang and ricasso. It would make for some strange fit up. And it would look strange because the bottom of the ricasso is not flush with the bottom of the handle, and the lines will look all wonky.

 

*edit* - forgive the crappy Photoshop skills please

 

Edited December 5, 2015 by Wes Detrick

[Joshua States]

Crappy photoshop skills? Where? Nice job Wes.

DeWet: Now see if you can lower the tang a bit and equalize the radii top and bottom. That will make for a much easier fit for the guard and handle. Centering the tang will also create better balance in the finished knife.

[Wes Detrick]

Crappy photoshop skills? Where? Nice job Wes.

DeWet: Now see if you can lower the tang a bit and equalize the radii top and bottom. That will make for a much easier fit for the guard and handle. Centering the tang will also create better balance in the finished knife.

 

lol, thanks Joshua. It was rushed, so not as good as it could have been, but it gets the idea across.

[DeWet]

Thanks guys for all of your input. I think I will be able to do a much better job when designing my knives. =)