C.Anderson 13 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I drilled and tapped a hole like that that thinking I would need it, but I'm still trying to get MORE air, not less. I hope to eventually need to reduce my incoming air, because then I really can try to control it and be efficient. Right now I can play with my pressure and needle valve to get flow changes. I worry that my needle valve is a bit of an unknown restriction and the pipe between the valve and the MIG tip causes something other than what I think is going on based on my regulator setting. More playing needs to be done for sure, but I can weld and heat treat, so it is just a matter of fuel consumption for me. I'm still kind of in a 'well, it works!' zone right now. I spent a bit of time tonight adjusting my injection nozzle placement, and I've come to the conclusion it needs to be lower than it can currently reach (ala the other thread in this forum). Chris I apologise for not getting the size right on that tee fitting. Should have checked. You could do a quick trial choke and see if it improves the heat just by using a piece of duct tape to cover part of the intake hole. No need to apologize!! And I actually did that tonight as well on the choke thing. The differences were negligible, and as Jerrod says, the thing seems to want more air, not less. I'm actually going to order a pair of those wyes and redo the burner bodies. May as well do it the best way possible to begin with, and the wye is going to disrupt air flow a LOT less than a tee. Link to post Share on other sites
LeviC 0 Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 I've been considering a forge rebuild for a while now, and I've been tempted to convert to venturi. The problem I have to consider is elevation. I live at 7000' up in the mountains of Northeast AZ, and I worry that a venturi just won't suck enough air into the system for the kind of heat I want. I see these guys with air control valves on their burners and idly wonder what it must be like to have that much air available. Nice to see some guys from Arizona on here. Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrod Miller 444 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Well, I checked my setup (and actually forged for a couple hours) this weekend. Turns out I did move my tip to be at the end of the smaller pipe already, but it was off center a little. I corrected the concentricity of everything and replaced my 12" of pipe with a union for 12" of pipe without a union. No real change in the amount of flame coming from the forge though. But it got plenty hot (no forge welding this time, but the forge does get hot enough for it) so I think it will just be a "some day when I don't feel like forging more than I feel like tinkering" kind of project. Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 supplyhouse.com has 1 1/4 black iron wye strainers for $19.00. Dont know if that is cheap or not but they have them. Link to post Share on other sites
C.Anderson 13 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Strainers are quite a bit different unfortunately . Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 so i need a non strainer wye? Link to post Share on other sites
C.Anderson 13 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Yep! Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,717 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Maybe for more air, use a larger wye? It's just seems kind of weird to me because the NC Tools forge I have has very small intake holes for the air and I get a very hot burn. Edited February 2, 2016 by Joshua States Link to post Share on other sites
C.Anderson 13 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I actually made some adjustments on mine, including lowering the injection nozzle down into the burner tube, and using a piece of magnetic sheet I had laying around for a choke lol. Definitely some welcome differences in tunability, and it seems to run better at all pressures now. It would sometimes stall, but I'm sure that will go away once I get used to where the choke needs to be for various psi settings.Here's a short video I took at 2-3psi right after I lit it tonight: https://www.instagram.com/p/BBRSuv4GOlF Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,717 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Much better looking flame. Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrod Miller 444 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I actually made some adjustments on mine, including lowering the injection nozzle down into the burner tube, and using a piece of magnetic sheet I had laying around for a choke lol. Definitely some welcome differences in tunability, and it seems to run better at all pressures now. It would sometimes stall, but I'm sure that will go away once I get used to where the choke needs to be for various psi settings. Here's a short video I took at 2-3psi right after I lit it tonight: https://www.instagram.com/p/BBRSuv4GOlF That is a lot like mine looks. I would prefer to see a lot less flame coming out of the forge, but it definitely does get the job done and oh so much less scale than when you have too much air. Link to post Share on other sites
C.Anderson 13 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Well, remember too brother, my burner is about 3-4" from the door right now, and pointed straight down for heat treating lol. I think with a single burner placed tangent and in the middle, it would work pretty well. Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrod Miller 444 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Totally, and mine is at the bottom of a vertical forge. That is why I'm not overly impressed with how mine is working out (again, just from a fuel efficiency stand-point). I guess I should have been a bit clearer on that. Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,717 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 I still don't get it. The air intake holes on our NC forge are very small and the flame is pretty compact (running at 5 psi in the photo above) with a nice blue/white flame. Maybe it has something to do with the propane jet alignment going straight through the center of the air intake rather than perpendicular to the air intake? Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrod Miller 444 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Maybe it has something to do with the propane jet alignment going straight through the center of the air intake rather than perpendicular to the air intake? That does indeed play a role. As does hole geometry (size and shape), total gas volume, orifice size, gas speed (a function of orifice size and pressure), and back-pressure in the forge. I'm sure there are even more variables too. Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) So I'm off to the races Edited February 8, 2016 by Dustin Stephens Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Where should I get my regulator? I want one with a gauge Link to post Share on other sites
Gabriel James 90 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 To coin a rather annoying friend --- The regulator gettin' place! I was planning on purchasing mine from the local gas company -- but this is a good question id like to know the answer to as well Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Hahah Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrod Miller 444 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Where should I get my regulator? I want one with a gauge Any local welding supply shop should be able to get you one. Mine had a rebuilt one real cheap (about half price) that I got, but they also sell new ones. Having ran a forced air system with just a BBQ regulator for a while, I can assure you that even a nice new one is well worth the price. BTW, mine is a 0-60 psi, but I would have definitely preferred a 0-30 psi range. Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Lester 280 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 High Temperature Tools and Refractory carries the whole assembly of regulatory, valves, gauge, hose. Everything you need between the tank and the burner. Doug Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 So after looking at my burner design, I think I want to redesign it. By doing so I think I will improve air flow. Instead of a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 tee, Im going to replace it with a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 3/4 tee and reduce the 1" burner tube to a 3/4" burner tube. Thoughts?? Link to post Share on other sites
C.Anderson 13 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 So after looking at my burner design, I think I want to redesign it. By doing so I think I will improve air flow. Instead of a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 tee, Im going to replace it with a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 3/4 tee and reduce the 1" burner tube to a 3/4" burner tube. Thoughts?? I'm assuming you mean 1 1/4 x 3/4 x 1 1/4? If so, that's how mine is...only it's actually 1 1/4 x 1 x 1 1/4, because my supplier didn't have the x 3/4 ones. I just reduced down to the 3/4 burner tube by using a 1" close nipple, dremeling out the seam, and 'threading a 3/4" burner tube into it. I figured this would be less of a transition than using a reducer. It's working great. Link to post Share on other sites
Dustin Stephens 1 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Yeah thats what I meant. Also the 3/4 burner tube allows me to get one of the zoeller type stainless burner flares. How far does the end of the burner need to protrude into the forge cavity? Link to post Share on other sites
C.Anderson 13 Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Mine doesn't at all. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now