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Dustin Stephens

Building a propane forge.... Help, I dont want to blow myself up!

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The flare will help you not burn off the end of the burner tube if the latter is allowed to extend into the fire chamber. This will cause you to periodically have to rebuild the forge to replace the burner tube. If you keep the burner tube within the insulation and protected with a little refractory it will do the same thing as the stainless steel flair. However, the lining of t he forge will eventually break down, depending on the temperature you run it at, and you still will occasionally need to rebuild the forge. Just not as often.

 

Doug

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sweet, in going to order extra insulating fire brick to keep on hand for when i do need a rebuild

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How far down does the mig tip need to be past the air intake hole? And will fire place door fire rope work to seal the hole around the bruner tube?

 

Edited by Dustin Stephens

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Need to know how far the mig tip needs to be past the air intake? and fire rope to seal off the burner tube?

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Experiment on tip placement. See what works best in your forge. Start with zero, and then bump it about half an inch further. I bet you won't notice a big difference. And you can seal the tube with spare Kaowool, or any refractory.

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I'm not familiar with that one, but keep in mind you're just trying to plug a hole with something that won't burn. Some people don't even plug that hole. I welded a pipe coupler to my forge body and formed my flare with refractory on the inside. The burner tube just screws in to my forge.

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I just tapped the forge body with the threads on the burner tube, and screw it directly into the body. I formed the flare into the kaowool with satanite.

Done deal, works great.

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Here some pics, just set it in top of the forge. Critiques, thoughts, does it look right? Oh it's set at 5 psi and an .30 tip

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Edited by Dustin Stephens

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Hey guys, have a look at my flame, does it look correct?

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You'll probably want to adjust your inlet to be at the top of the forge, and angled to get a swirling action with the flame. As it is now when you lay steel in the forge it will have the flame hitting it directly. Also, any pipe sticking into the forge is going to get quite hot and eventually be eaten away. Does the forge get hot enough?

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Hey Jerrod, I just held it in there by hand to see how it would act, because it acts differently out of the forge. My plan is to weld a piece of pipe at an angle and mount it in the center angled to one side or the other, I know the tip needs to be in the brick, I was just testing it to see how it looked and to see what you guys thought about how the flame looked. This is the first gasser for me so Im a ball in high weeds

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The difference inside and out of the forge is from back-pressure, so when you are testing make sure you have your forge as closed up (doors and such) as it will be when in actual use.

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Hey Jerrod, I was thinking about lining the top and bottom of the inside of my soft brick with hard brick that is on clearance at rural king. Do you think that would help insulate it more, or hurt it? I want to do the top too because that will give more of a surface area for the burner tube to be in brick?? I know i want a hard bottom for sure because i want to forge weld in it and I know the borax will eat the soft brick, but do I need to mortar the seams, if so what do you recommend? IM SO CLOSE to running this thing

Edited by Dustin Stephens

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Hard brick doesn't insulate as well as soft, but it is much more rugged and flux resistant. Hard bricks will also retain heat. So while it will take longer to come up to temp, your forge will run pretty well once it is up to temp (all things being equal). From what others have done with brick forges, it sounds like you'll really want to get some replaceable tiles (thin hard brick) to go on the floor. Don't mortar those in place, but if you want to mortar everything else that is fine/good.

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thanks for the help Jerrod, I think im almost there! Couldnt have done it with out you!

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