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Inlayed patternwelded Viking sword. WIP


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this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo.

I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts 11205578_10206389135224169_1640343287082168263_n.jpg12654426_10206389134984163_5378478632281842858_n.jpgI tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. 12243366_10205918578740551_671882132447168458_n.jpgpatterning the 19 layer billet 12239619_10205918579700575_2948639690214702433_n.jpg 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 12234851_10205918579900580_812512995392531124_n.jpg 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core 12219369_10205918582940656_5430460420389236917_n.jpg billet welded, beginning to forge the blade12003869_10205940727334252_5135526106765477979_n.jpg blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the billet (with an added edge bar)

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12308515_10205980731654335_7448860618740667786_n.jpg rough ground blade with a quick pattern check etch

922856_10206149431551727_3997317910645551825_n.jpgHand sanded to 120 before heat treat to pull the fuller straight. 12360040_10206055776730415_1396451983606900244_n.jpg heat treated (the second sword took a good deal of nose dive.) 10262236_10206149431311721_6345244028468811436_n.jpg re polishing 922852_10206150432496750_7409185984600614740_n.jpg sanded to 320 grit and a light test etch

10441968_10206150432136741_3569024074997159805_n.jpg from heat I will finish out the fitting before finishing the polish and doing a final etch

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10670121_10206176117578861_565049123995928336_n.jpgpunched and drifted guard ... 1904012_10206176117178851_1267681119164864289_n.jpgupper guard made and fit

1917093_10206176116578836_4456695032707052433_n.jpg pommel made and fit to upper guard

10612695_10206176116018822_706634092329377587_n.jpg12509843_10206264552269673_4079269432862639060_n.jpg inlay started on lower guard

12540800_10206269484632979_2523071506943023268_n.jpg channel for inlay cut on lower guard

1935589_10206300352244650_501078977236889647_n.jpg lower guard inlayed and handle core formed with under wrapp. 12662033_10206377404210901_4273285446630812433_n.jpg upper guard pommel inlayed

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I've been watching bits and pieces of this on FB. I've been too much in awe to comment before. This is just incredible. Thanks Matt.

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Beautiful work! So many thoughts my brain is vapor locking. Will this one be around at see at Ashokan or does it have a home?

sold and will be long gone by ashoken, planing to have something special to show for ashoken however.

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Beautiful work! Is the pommel actually hollow or did you just grind a recess for the peened tang? If it is hollow all the way up, how did you go about making it?

 

Thanks!

Mark

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dude, that rocks so very much. I am really impressed. Some really challenging inlay, or at least it seems so to me. I love that you practiced engraving on your engraving vise, by the way.

 

Hopefully, you are getting the credit you deserve (and money) for this beauty.

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Beautiful work! Is the pommel actually hollow or did you just grind a recess for the peened tang? If it is hollow all the way up, how did you go about making it?

 

Thanks!

Mark

I cheated a bit and used my milling machine to mill out a pocket in the pommel. not quite fully hollow but it has a considerable percentage of the material removed.

 

dude, that rocks so very much. I am really impressed. Some really challenging inlay, or at least it seems so to me. I love that you practiced engraving on your engraving vise, by the way.

 

Hopefully, you are getting the credit you deserve (and money) for this beauty.

I took a engraving class at NESM last year with Jay close, upped my game a bit, I ended up abandoning the bowling ball, but keep the center hold vice, I need to do a bit more work on it bu tI think it is going to be super useful.

Doing OK on this one, custom orders are good and bad that way.

MP

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  • 2 weeks later...

Somebody clue me in on how the inlay stays in the grooves. Is it just a pressure fit from hammering it down or are the inlay channels undercut somehow on the bottom/sides?

 

One more question: It looks like you forged the bevels before the fuller. Are there just two schools of thought about which one comes first? (if so what are the benefits/downfalls of each)

Edited by Joshua States
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the channels are undercut slightly, you can inlay in to a square groove but it needs to be deeper. I do my undercuts with a wide graver and lift up the edges of the steel a bit at the same time, when doing the undercutting you can also push the line a bit if your channel wasn't as even as it could have been. I made this video for the ABS on doing the inlay , that might help explain it .

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