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    • Alan Longmire

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Joshua States

What did you do in your shop today?

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6 hours ago, Kreg said:

It is...last name Whitehead. Dont ask me why but I have been doodling that since I was a teenager.

starting to think I should have chosen something more like this. Just need to figure out how to make it etch red. lol

My house looks like a friggen crime scene.

 

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Geez dude! what happened? looks bad. 

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17 hours ago, Zeb Camper said:

Geez dude! what happened? looks bad. 

It happened so fast I am not even sure. lol I was trying to da the grind marks off so I could start wet sanding.

It was just the little 3/4 cut on my thumb.....for some reason I was bleeding like a mofo.

I did this cut with the same blade about a week ago....my boy said he could see the bone.

It was a worse cut and bleed half as much.

I ordered some #5 cut resistant gloves from grainger that are suppose to arrive today......over it. lol

 

 

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I think I'll stick to mustard and such to get a patina on a blade. 

"Putting a bit of yourself into each blade" has its limits.

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26 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

I think I'll stick to mustard and such to get a patina on a blade. 

"Putting a bit of yourself into each blade" has its limits.

lol. I have made a couple dozen blades....stopped counting. This thing has bit me more than all the others put together.

I finally figured out a sharpening method that seems to work for me.

I had a spare chair and gave it a chop test......went through one side of the back rest with a single swing.

Hope to get the grind marks out and a paracord handle on it this weekend.

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Today in my shop AKA my tiny garage, I started a tiny lil knife out of rebar for practice.

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Today I had this idea of welding a 3" pipe inside a 3.5" pipe to make a 3/16" thick air wall between the two for a more even heat baffle pipe. I've had issues HT'ing my last two blades. They both got slightly underheated at the heel. I might try capping the entrance once the blade is inside too. The thermocouple will be my eyes. 

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7 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

Today I had this idea of welding a 3" pipe inside a 3.5" pipe to make a 3/16" thick air wall between the two for a more even heat baffle pipe. I've had issues HT'ing my last two blades. They both got slightly underheated at the heel. I might try capping the entrance once the blade is inside too. The thermocouple will be my eyes. 

Uhm.....

There is something about a sealed up pipe in a very hot environment that someone told me about once....the words "pressure" and "shrapnel" seem to come to mind.

I may have it wrong but "dangerous" seemed to be a part of it too.

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40 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Uhm.....

There is something about a sealed up pipe in a very hot environment that someone told me about once....the words "pressure" and "shrapnel" seem to come to mind.

I may have it wrong but "dangerous" seemed to be a part of it too.

As long as it isn't fully welded, (he could tack weld across the gap in 3 places on each end) it shouldn't be a problem.

Joel: You weren't planning to weld the gap closed, now were you? and um, capping the ends is not at all recommended.......boom.

Edited by Joshua States

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7 hours ago, Joshua States said:

As long as it isn't fully welded, (he could tack weld across the gap in 3 places on each end) it shouldn't be a problem.

Joel: You weren't planning to weld the gap closed, now were you? and um, capping the ends is not at all recommended.......boom.

:lol: Don't worry, I had thought about that. I'll leave a hole on both ends. Thanks for your concern. 

About capping the end I just meant to put a loose cap to help with heat loss, nothing air tight.

Edited by Joël Mercier

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I'm curious how much pressure would be created at 2500°f though :lol: j/k

Edited by Joël Mercier

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5 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

I'm curious how much pressure would be created at 2500°f though :lol: j/k

1,984 psi, assuming your pipe has a volume of one litre and you seal it at 60 degrees F and normal atmospheric pressure at sea level, 14.7 psi.  ;)

In other words, KABOOM!  Or at least an inflated pipe.  Probably.  Personally I wouldn't risk it. :ph34r:

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8 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

1,984 psi, assuming your pipe has a volume of one litre and you seal it at 60 degrees F and normal atmospheric pressure at sea level, 14.7 psi.  ;)

In other words, KABOOM!  Or at least an inflated pipe.  Probably.  Personally I wouldn't risk it. :ph34r:

My guess is it would just inflate like a blood pressure meter. No good for HT either way :lol:

Edited by Joël Mercier

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Joel,

Are you putting a piece of charcoal or wood in your baffle tube and waiting to see a bit of smoke before putting the blade in ?

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3 hours ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Joel,

Are you putting a piece of charcoal or wood in your baffle tube and waiting to see a bit of smoke before putting the blade in ?

I used to, now I use atp-641. I first heat my forge to around 2000°f to ensure the heat is spread out evenly in the forge. Then shut it down and turn it back on when it reached the desired temp. After that I put the knife in. 

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22 minutes ago, Joël Mercier said:

I used to, now I use atp-641. I first heat my forge to around 2000°f to ensure the heat is spread out evenly in the forge. Then shut it down and turn it back on when it reached the desired temp. After that I put the knife in. 

Huh. When I used a baffle tube in my forge (3-venturi burners) I would put the tube and the knife in cold. Then I would light the forge and turn the propane pressure down really low, like 3 lbs. The burners would be just popping and sputtering every few seconds. I'd bring the heat up slowly. When the tube started to glow a little bit, I'd increase the pressure up a pound or two. By the time the tube got bright red, the blade was the same, maybe a shade darker. When both of them turned orange, I'd throw on the shades and watch for the decalesence. 

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3 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

Huh. When I used a baffle tube in my forge (3-venturi burners) I would put the tube and the knife in cold. Then I would light the forge and turn the propane pressure down really low, like 3 lbs. The burners would be just popping and sputtering every few seconds. I'd bring the heat up slowly. When the tube started to glow a little bit, I'd increase the pressure up a pound or two. By the time the tube got bright red, the blade was the same, maybe a shade darker. When both of them turned orange, I'd throw on the shades and watch for the decalesence. 

I am using W1/2 and 80CrV2 so I do soak the blades. My forge is also a single burner swirl type so one side of the pipe is heated first. Anyways, this is how I find the heat to be the most even in my forge. 

Different methods for different setups I guess. 

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My refractory mortar melted in my last forging session. I was forging a hardy hot cut and I wanted max temp but I did push it a little too far it seems. I am going to do some mods in the forge before relining it. My pipe was sitting on a firebrick. I am going to weld feets on the pipe so the flame will swirl under it instead of hitting the side. Bought higher temp mortar too. 

Edited by Joël Mercier

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I like it ! Kind of a heavy duty Nessemuk design.

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I finished up two of the blades I'm bringing to the ABS Handles and Guards class with Kevin Cashen next week at SOFA. These were made to spec as per the class prerequisites. They are both forged from 5160 and hand-sanded to 600 grit.

large.5ad82cb8bb441_mzatEnPR3azgdY9dbKjQ.jpg

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^^^ Those are some great looking blades. I started cutting out my latest tanto tippy lookin deal last night from some leaf spring.

It seems to be 5160 I tried on a previous piece to HT twice at 1475-1500 and was a no go.

This piece is retardly thick...like 3/8. I should take it to pound town I guess. Played that game before with 5160 and got no where fast with my arm and rr track.

Guess I will flip a coin tonight .lol The file got a second HT regime yesterday...wasnt happy with how it file tested.

The kitchen blade in the back ground is some 15n20 ...gonna take my first shot at a brass bolster in all my spare time.

 

 

 

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