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Joshua States

What did you do in your shop today?

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Which is what I did..............but the blade still ended up more narrow than I'd meant.  One of my problems was that I forged a "hollow" down the length of the blade on both sides.  Not quite sure how I managed it, but it was there none the less.  I think that was mostly what caused the change from my original design.  Still going to be a nice looking knife in my humble and inexperienced opinion.  We'll see when I offer up the pictures for the critiques. on the forum.

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Nice looking bars there @Joshua States sorry to hear about the equipment. 

 

I got strings on this thing! Still needs lots of work, but I got to hear its voice at least. I'm getting used to not having fret markers and getting used to the fat and wide neck. Managed to play just a short while before it was out of tune. I think the nut needs polished up or cut to a bigger size. 

 

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been a busy couple days in the shop.

 

Here is another viking style hammer.

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another Japanese style bladesmiths hammer Resized_20200122_130520.jpega couple power hammer tools Resized_20200122_123931.jpegResized_20200122_123908.jpeg

a punch for punching the rivet hole in tongs with a bolster to go with it.

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a cupping tool for forging the round face of rounding hammers.Resized_20200122_123750.jpeg

and a hammer eye punch and drift set.Resized_20200122_123721.jpeg

I still need to make handles for the cupping tool and the punch bolster and a few other bottom tools for the power hammer. 

Edited by Jeremy Blohm
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21 hours ago, Zeb Camper said:

Managed to play just a short while before it was out of tune

Nice man! That seemed to have been one hell of a project. 

 

Btw, not sure if you knew, but new strings will always go out of tune after a lil playing. 

 

On my side I've been working on this little thing for a chef blade I made. Not quite finished yet.

 

https://youtu.be/KmK-_X_iXPY

Edited by Joël Mercier
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Sweet hammer @Jeremy Blohm !

@Joël Mercier , you are way too meticulous sir! Looks great!

 

The string issue I was having was binding in the nut. You pull slack out (stretch the string from the tuners) when you bend the string and the nut (if the slots aren't polished good) grabs it causing it to be at less tension and out of tune. I fixed it last night though. It sounds very different from the strat. Gotta wire it up next. 

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That's nothing compared to your guitar @Zeb Camper!!!!!

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A fuller for making my viking hammers.Resized_20200123_164728.jpeg

a bolster for making my viking hammers. Its intended to be used to drive the drift in from the bottom side without mucking up the peaks of the cheeks. It's made for a bigger hammer than what's shown, this was just for a representation.

Resized_20200123_164745.jpegResized_20200123_164804.jpeg

and a rivet header for ⅜ and ½ inch rivets made from forklift fork. I still need to put a handle on it though.

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A few blades cut out and ready for the rough pre heat grinds apart from the stainless chef and petty knives on the left which get ground after heat treat.

IMG_20200124_110001.jpg

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Well, I finished my first forged knife.  (WHEW!!!!!) ;)

Edited by Chris Christenberry

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33 minutes ago, Chris Christenberry said:

Well, I finished my first forged knife.  (WHEW!!!!!) ;)

Let's see it! 

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He put it up in the Design and Critique forum.  It looks a hell of a lot better than my first dozen knives!

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Yup, it's under the heading "I need some critique from you experienced bladesmiths".

 

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Got more work done on this "little" thing. Next is glue and handle carving. 

IMG_20200123_213534.jpg

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I managed to get into the shop today, the first time since November due to a reoccurring bout of pneumonia, 

 While I was away from the shop I had an idea.       to shape the bevels on my blades I have used a filing jig, although slow it enabled me to get the bevels symmetrical, I struggled with this on the belt grinder!. I drilled a hole in the grinder handle and inserted a length of stainless rod. For the guide rod, I then welded two washers on to a vine eye, for the front guide and drilled them out to accept the guide rod.......... Simple! 

 

It seems to work well although I haven't tried it properly, yet. But when tested on a scrap piece of 1075c a clean bevel was formed, I think that with a little practice this will be an invaluable tool in my workshop. 

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Just made a rivet heading tool to go with the bolster I made yesterday.

Resized_20200124_130925.jpeg

Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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14 hours ago, Martin Tiney said:

although slow it enabled me to get the bevels symmetrical, I struggled with this on the belt grinder!

What problems did you have with the belt grinder? Did you strike a center line down the edge before grinding?

 

 

 

Today I took that 1" square bar of 4-way PW and twisted it...….by hand.

 

Twisted 1inch bar.jpg

Edited by Joshua States
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The belt grinder problem is pretty much down to me, fingers and moving things, for me don't mix to well.!  I can't seem to get a crisp plunge line with the belt sander, even when using a guide, I always end up cleaning up with a file, 

 The other problem with the sander is that it is of the home made variety and is slightly underpowered and slow, but it cost next to nothing to make B) the short video was taken before it was fully finished 

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7 hours ago, Martin Tiney said:

The other problem with the sander is that it is of the home made variety and is slightly underpowered and slow, but it cost next to nothing to make 

 

Often projects like that end up being "ya get what ya paid for".    I learned a long time ago to just get myself an envelope and start puttin' money into it.  Even if it's just a dollar or two at a time, it eventually builds up to be a pile able to buy that which I longed for originally.

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14 hours ago, Martin Tiney said:

The belt grinder problem is pretty much down to me, fingers and moving things, for me don't mix to well.!  I can't seem to get a crisp plunge line with the belt sander, even when using a guide, I always end up cleaning up with a file, 

I do the reverse. I rough them in on the grinder and set them with a file pre-HT and clean up on the grinder. Having a work rest will help immensely with setting plunges on the grinder.

Edited by Joshua States

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Spent a chunk of yesterday and this morning making a set of dies for the hydraulic press. I tested it out quick on a piece of scrap and it seems like the cylinder will do the trick, but it's admittedly slow so I'll eventually need to change it out. I've only got 4" of clearance as it is, so I'd like to get a shorter cylinder eventually anyway. I never realized how much heat those press dies can suck out of the steel.

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MVIMG_20200126_111910.jpg

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Got more work done on this 9.75" chef. The cocobolo appears clearer than last time I used it. It was from the same plank but shows different colors. I guess that's just how this wood is...

 

Anyways, no tricky angled carving on this one, ergonomics first! And bolster was tricky enough :lol:

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NICE!!!B)

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Nice is right! I saw the guard when you posted it days ago and now complete it’s superb. I think you said it was stainless? It looks tight, just wondering! how did you get it solid to the blade?

 

Gary LT

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Thank you gentlemen! 

 

18 minutes ago, Gary LT said:

how did you get it solid to the blade

I'm starting to get good at filing a nice and tight tang hole in the bolster. Now it's squeezed between the handle and the shoulders and the tang has been notched and drilled as a mechanical glue hold. I would normally use a pin but it's definitely not necessary imo...

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