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What did you do in your shop today?


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Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

I've been working on a second slip-joint, and decided to try a bit of filework on the spring Here is the blade for it...

Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel:  

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4 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

 

 

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Is it mustard patina and then stone washed? It's just mind blowing!!!

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Cool HT set up, Alan! Nice work Gerhard! Looks awesome Joël! 

 

We put together my nephew's strat today after I painted it yesterday. I know guitar stuff might not fit here, but I'm pretty stoked about it. $50 guitar with $50 in paint and some new parts, and it plays better than my strat. Got taller frets which I like a lot for lead stuff. Doesn't buzz at all. I'm low key (maybe blaitenly) jealous lol. It's got a killer tone, even with single coils. I think it's the basswood talking. Its clean, and punchy, but strangely warm, His is the blue one. 

 

 

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Nice Joel. I don't think scalpels get that sharp. What grit did you take that edge too?

That mustard patina is just awesome.

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6 minutes ago, Randy Griffin said:

Nice Joel. I don't think scalpels get that sharp. What grit did you take that edge too?

That mustard patina is just awesome.

Thanks Randy!

I finished it on a 10k GlassStone.

In all honesty, once you get the technique, it's quite easy to get a blade that sharp. You set your bevels with around 5 pounds of pressure, edge trailing. Once you've felt the burr on both sides, you lower the pressure to less than 1 pound and switch sides every 2 pass to get rid of the burr. Once it's been dealt with, you change your approach to the razor honing technique. You go edge leading with just the weight of your blade and switch side every pass. 

 

I ordered some 0.5micron diamond stropping paste to see if I can get it even sharper. I could probably get a reasonable shave on my wire bristle beard :lol:

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11 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

Just mustard, no stonewash :lol: Thanks Jeremy

That looks stunning......compared to my results with mustard I suspect you use some industrial grade black market stuff:ph34r: 

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2 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

 I suspect you use some industrial grade black market stuff:ph34r: 

 

Canadian military-grade nuclear mustard! :ph34r: Available only to Quebecois...:P

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Finally getting to some finish-ish work today! 
Trying to get this Mother’s Day kitchen knife hand rubbed before Mother’s Day actually gets here:rolleyes:

And I’m finally getting to grinding and polishing this Wrought and Shear Steel laminated blade:D

 

 

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A pic of the stock I am doing at the moment just wetted to raise the grain which was sanded at 350, repeated twice at 600 and the second pic with the second coat of sanded in alkanet oil. Grain is filled so now the real finishing can be started with all the preporatry work is done.IMG_20200424_110839.jpg

 

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First half of the cement pad is down, we were fighting a storm to keep the canopy over the cement so It wasn’t ruined, perfectly sunny weather until it wasn’t.. :D this is roughly 22, 80 pound bags of cement. 

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I’ve been cleaning and reorganizing my shop for the past couple of days. Today, I made a hammer and tongs stand to replace a table that I put everything on. Still need a bracket to put tongs on.


I still have to change a couple of breakers out for 20 amp and rewire for a 30 amp breaker to run a welder.

 

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I have been having a yarn with a customer from Australia about a small steel attached to the sheath and after a bit of thought on the subject I have bought some lengths of 6mm black spring steel so will make up a few to trial but expect I will be able to offer them with knives from the mini skinner size and longer. This is a piece of mild just to see what it will look like. I will cut them 6 1/2 in (165mm) long and useing the fuller I made for the job will have the grip notch 1 1/2 inches (40mm) from the top. I am undecided yet as to whether I will put a handle on or not. I may just drill a hole in the fullered part and put a split ring through like was often on the face of a farm knife but I will have the ring through the fullered section and have the steel down the seam side of the sheath.

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This is the spring fuloler to put the notch in the steel rod.. With the steel heated with the gas torch I put it in the fuller up to a mark (small hacksw cut) and give it a whack with a 2 1/2 lb hammer.
Take note that I do not have any claimn on welding capability other than I can sort of make things stick together.

 

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Yesterday was hand sanding:)....more hand sanding:mellow:....and more:(.....and.... etching:D!

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Ready for handles.

 

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Screwed up my first attempt at a sgian dubh. Dont know how, and I didnt notice till after heat treat and temper, but I somehow ground a spine-long divot along the top of one bevel! You can actually feel the depression between the flat and the bevel lol. Ok...next blank!!

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Do it on the other side and call it a fuller...….just sayin'. It's not a flaw, it's a feature!

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1 hour ago, Joshua States said:

Do it on the other side and call it a fuller...….just sayin'. It's not a flaw, it's a feature!

LOL!! That would be a cool idea, if I could figure out how I did it!! I honestly can't figure it out. I have an old nessmuk that I screwed up the bevels on a long time ago. I keep it around to test belts with and to practice freehand grinding. Well, I went out to my shop today and ground on it...nothing! Perfectly flat and smooth. I wanted to make sure my platen didn't have some random something that might show up later that I might have missed so I took an old 120 belt and reversed it, turned on the grinder and slid a piece of wood up and down the belt over the platen to make sure it was smooth. I really need to make a new one someday. I use the Grizzly 2x72 grinder buffer, and the platen is just a heavy cast iron piece. It works fine, but I'd like to make one that I can attach a glass platen to one of these days. As for the sgian dubh, I'll just move forward and make a new blank. Its just a few inches of steel and I ordered four feet of 1084 from Aldo before all this crap started lol. I'm not the world's best at carving, so instead I'm planning on aged copper for the bolster and butt end.

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Not today, but a couple days ago I tested my new forge with getting up to welding temps. And it worked great! I stacked 3 pieces of 1084 .25” x 1.25” x 3”, tacked and added a handle and forge welded them to a solid piece. 
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I did another first with the new block and made a big integral chefs knife. Overall, I’m pleased I was able to do it, especially all by hand hammering. Now I know what to look for when making integrals and have ideas to fix the little things I don’t like. 

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Now I’m waiting on that delivery of 15n20 and 1084 to make some fun stuff :ph34r:

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Forging a hammer today and I got hit twice with 220 V 3 phase from my power hammer. Talk about a shocker!!! Tomorrow I'm going through all the wiring....I'm assuming it's a ground somewhere. Both times I was holding the workpiece on the die and dipped my tooling in the slack bucket and it went through one arm and out the other. 

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29 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

Forging a hammer today and I got hit twice with 220 V 3 phase from my power hammer. Talk about a shocker!!! Tomorrow I'm going through all the wiring....I'm assuming it's a ground somewhere. Both times I was holding the workpiece on the die and dipped my tooling in the slack bucket and it went through one arm and out the other. 

Yeah, definitely unplug it and go through every inch of wiring. That'll stop your heart if you ground out solid enough!!!

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Posted (edited)

Got my second sgian dubh blank cut out. It's been cleaned up and ready for the hand filing of the tang. On a side note I'm starting to like these surface conditioning belts. They leave a very smooth scratch pattern. Once I'm used to them I'll probably buy the ultra fine one as well. They are a bit weird to work with...imagine pushing onto a hard sponge lol. Not easy to keep the piece flat.

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Edited by Brian Myers
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I made an anvil stand and mounted my brand new Kanca 110# anvil. Torch finish by my daughter!

Now comes the scary dressing the edges of the anvil. It’s a bit daunting to take an angle grinder to this. 

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