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What did you do in your shop today?


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9 minutes ago, billyO said:

I bet, and it looks really good in the pic.

Is that a nautrual find or purchase?

Thanks. It was a gift from my great uncle. He's retired and spends a lot of his time with woodworking. He lives in California near the redwoods so he gets some nice stuff. I have one other curly redwood board from him I haven't gotten around to yet, and he also gave me some stabilized redwood pen blanks I could use for some small hidden tangs.

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Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

I made myself a hammer I´ve wanted for a long time: an english style dog head hammer. Forged from 60mm square c45 steel (1045 basically) with a curly walnut handle, just because I wanted to be fa

Best I can do for today! Needs more grind work, sanding, and heat treatment. I just couldn't resist getting an etch on it before shutting the shop up.     

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1 hour ago, billyO said:

Had a minor mishap during forging yesterday.  While forging my heel notch (I'll accept any better terms for this) on a nakiri, I heard a heart-sinking sound not unlike the dreaded 'tink' that happens after quenching, but much lower in tone, followed by the sound of metal landing on the concrete floor.  I didn't realize what happened until the next whack with the hammer, when I noticed my post vice bounce around unusually....


 

Good thing there's a spare hiding somewhere in the shed....but that ended the forging for the day.

 

Now that's not something you see every day... :blink:  That's all wrought iron, so you could always forge-weld it back together.  Or braze, even.  

 

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1 minute ago, Alan Longmire said:

Now that's not something you see every day... :blink: 

Thanks goodness for that, eh?

 

1 minute ago, Alan Longmire said:

That's all wrought iron, so you could always forge-weld it back together.  Or braze, even.  

Fortunately, it's not my vice, but the owner of the house's.  When looking at the break, it's rusted inside the joint and looks like it was poorly welded with very little penetration into the joint at some point.  She said that she remembers noticing that when she bought it years ago, and her plan is to turn it into an indoor vice for her jewelery making.  

 

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Been busy doing not a lot of bladesmithing but other things.

A friend of mine has an old axe that he claims was his great grandfathers. Has quite a bit of sentimental value for him. Well the handle finally broke and it needed sharpening so he asked if I could help him out. Among my friends for some reason I have gained a reputation of being "able to put an edge on a brick".

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Kind of neat that in the close up picture, you can see the ghost of the weld line between the low carbon body and the high carbon bit.

 

He was so pleased that this was his thank you.

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Took some time off of work this week to get some work done that I've been wanting to do for a while. When I first started bladesmithing, I had gone to the local scrap yard and picked up some spring material. This is what was remaining from a never used Chevy Silverado spring that I happened to find. I know it was for a Chevy because it still had the tag on it.

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I've been wanting to make a spring fuller and so I figured this would be the perfect spring as I wasn't going to use it for knives anymore.

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And lastly, finally got around to start making a cone mandrel for welding up sockets. This started as a chunk of 1.25 inch diameter, 8 inch long H13. It was a pain to move. Thank god for hydraulic presses...

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Now time to finish grind and polish and then bend.

 

 

Edited by Bill Schmalhofer
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On 10/4/2020 at 1:51 PM, Bill Schmalhofer said:

That is serious. I love how they did the fullers with the small wheel. This will up your game big time.

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1 hour ago, Joshua States said:

I love how they did the fullers with the small wheel.

That in and of itself would put it above other models.  Too bad I alredy have one (and that my unit can't accept 2" arms).

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17 hours ago, Joshua States said:

That is serious. I love how they did the fullers with the small wheel. This will up your game big time.

I seriously hope so. I've been getting pretty good at surfacing blades without one, but it takes freaking forever (probably the longest part of grinding). And the thought of trying fullers has always terrified me. Maybe not so much anymore.

 

 

16 hours ago, billyO said:

That in and of itself would put it above other models.  Too bad I alredy have one (and that my unit can't accept 2" arms).

I was a bit hesitant when the price came out. Then I watched the video, and it seems more than "just a surface grinder". Made it easier to justify.

 

Two major purchases this year - a forge press and now a surface grinder. I'm beginning to wonder what happened to my wife and who is this person that looks like her...

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Got a few deliveries this week now I can start to making more exact plans for the Hydraulic press. Not a phone book,but this is how I felt when the cylinder showed up. 

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Edited by Gilbert McCann
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5 hours ago, Gilbert McCann said:

start to making more exact plans for the Hydraulic press

Have you spoken to Jeremy Hewitt about a controller system yet?

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I'm as slow as Molasses in the dead of Winter in Northern Alaska............but I've got this latest knife just about ready to deliver.  I yet need to wipe some finish on the stabilized handle.  I sanded it to 1200 grit and hand buffed it, but I think it would benefit from a thin finish.  I'm thinking 100% Tung Oil.  I've used it quite a bit on my wood carving knives.

 

Also ordered the maker's mark stamp for my leather sheaths today.  They are about 3 weeks behind because of the Pandemic, so I guess I'll have to be patient.  Here's the proof they sent me.Leather Makers Mark.jpg

 

Going to start on my first sheath as soon as I get this knife delivered.  Gettin' my leather working "station" all set up.

 

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One of these days I'm gonna have to make me a stichin' pony.....

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Chris that's a nice leather working station. Josh thanks for the vise jaw tip . I think I will contact Jeremy I've been thinking about it, but thought for now I would go with the less expensive manual option. 

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Busy day today with patterns cut out of steel sheet for a chinese vegetable cleaver, a 12 inch bladed cimeter, a meat slicer and new pattern table knives with a his n hers slight size difference. The cleaver and the cimeter will be in carbon steel but cut the staniless blades from a sheet of NitroV stainless and got them ready for a minimal pre-grind tomorrow. The 1/4 inch hole in the handles is to hang them in the liquid nitrogen dewar on the copper brackets I made.

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Just finished up a fun project. Had a billet of twist Damascus that I really screwed up (lots of cold shunts). So I harvested what I could out of it and mixed my two favorite hobbies (blacksmithing and wood turning) by making a bunch of letter openers. Figured I got a head start on Christmas presents. Woods left to right: Black walnut, spalted maple, black palm, canary, purpleheart, paudauk, mulberry.

 

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Well, the custom knife I've been working on for the past month is finished and delivered.  Customer called me yesterday afternoon and said her husband (the knife was an anniversary gift from her to him) announced that even though their anniversary is a month away, he'd taken advantage of a travel agent's special offer and (surprise, surprise) they were to board a plane at 7:30 this morning for a trip.  She needed the knife last night................could I get it to her in time for the trip?  I was close enough that it wasn't a problem really......................but in my haste to finish and get it to her, It completely slipped my mind to take any pictures of it.  So all I can tell you is I was very pleased with it and think it would have passed the "test" if I'd been able to show you guys pictures.  Thanks for answering all my questions during the build process.  Next time I'll be sure to take pics. 

 

So now it's back to learning how to make sheaths.  Started my first a couple of days ago.  It's a stacked sheath.  Already making mistakes............small ones, but I'm learning. 

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@Bill Schmalhofer those look great! I think the first, fifth, and sixth from the left are my favorite. For the fifth and sixth, are those purple heart and padauk, respectively? I can't tell what the first is. Also, is the third black palm?

 

@Chris Christenberry it seems like your priorities are in order: customer first, then pictures. I'd bet a lot of people here have done the same and been in such a rush they forgot to take pictures, but there's always the next knife :)

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27 minutes ago, AJ Chalifoux said:

@Bill Schmalhofer those look great! I think the first, fifth, and sixth from the left are my favorite. For the fifth and sixth, are those purple heart and padauk, respectively? I can't tell what the first is. Also, is the third black palm?

 

@Chris Christenberry it seems like your priorities are in order: customer first, then pictures. I'd bet a lot of people here have done the same and been in such a rush they forgot to take pictures, but there's always the next knife :)

Thanks for your comment. The first is black walnut, and yes to all your other questions.:)

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Here's something I made for a friend over the last couple week ends (never enough time or money) he wanted a hand digging pick with some weight. We picked out a 6lb splitting maul and I went off a vintage miners hand pick design. It's really heavy to me and I'm not small, but he liked the weight. 

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Never let it be said that I work fast when it comes to shop infrastructure. :rolleyes: Only a year and a couple of weeks after I acquired an HT oven, it's finally up and running.  Today I used it to spheroidize a pile of O1 integrals I forged last year that, even normalized, were too hard to file or drill easily.   They were made as proof-of-concept pieces for the "knifemaking unplugged" series of classes I did for my local guild last year, and taught me first and foremost that if you're gonna go unplugged you should use a simple steel rather than O1.  For the class we used W1 drill rod, which worked great.  The O1 was what was available locally, which is why I gave it a shot.  I could have finished 'em out with the grinder and carbide drills, but that would defeat the purpose of the class.  

Anyway, that was the Evenheat's first job.  Here it is heating up on its break-in firing yesterday:

 

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I made the heat shielding from some aluminum barstock and flashing material I had lying around, since the instructions for the oven said to keep it at least 12" from all surfaces and I didn't have that much room.  Based on today's spheroidizing run, the heat shielding is totally unnecessary.  After holding for an hour at 1325 I can still put my hand on top.  Wouldn't want to keep it there too long, but still.  It doesn't get dangerously hot.  We'll see how it handles after doing the 1950-degree hold for stainless in the next few weeks...

Tomorrow I have an order of AEB-L arriving.  It's a brave new world for this old traditionalist, but I figure if I want to sell folders and kitchen knives they've got to be stainless.  I'll save the serious carbon steels like W2 and Hitachi Blue #2 for the serious chefs who know how to use and care for a knife, and use the AEB-L for the everyday person.  

All this on top of the tomahawks and pattern-weld... plus I can use this thing to do enameling, too!  Once I learn how to do enameling, that is.  :lol:  I'm picturing some nice grisaille and plique-a-jour work on a late Renaissance guard...

some year...

:ph34r:

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I gotta drag my oven out from under the bench where it's been for 5 years and get it

going, needs all new controls the old analog controls are shot...............B)

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Today I finished drawing out the multibar sword I've been working on for what I now realize has been most of this year. I had one delamination right smack-dab in the middle of the blade, and had to close it up. However, by closing it up, the width was brought down to about 1-1/4" when I needed 1-3/8" so I had to partially forge the bevels in that section. Everywhere else will have the bevels ground in.

 

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Edited by AJ Chalifoux
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Cut up some steel this weekend the one inch stuff I had my steel yard take care of for me. It helps to lay things out in there actual size. I definitely like cutting the steel better on my bandsaw than the abrasive saw. 

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Finally got around to making some quick change die plates for the press:

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and some squaring dies:

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Edited by billyO
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Three of the 4 slicers done and in the rack for oil finish on the handles. Two with local eucalyptus over bronze on the NitroV blades and an AH EDC  with buffalo horn on the 1084 blade. 

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I've been working on my first sheath.  I'm at the point I've got the front and back ready to glue together.  Have to sew the belt loop before I do that, though because I designed it so the sewing is hidden between the back and one of the wedges inserted to compensate for the guard.  Here's what I've got to this point.  I know there are a lot of flaws but it's good enough to call it my first sheath.  Oh, the spots on the front of the sheath are fresh water and not stains.

 

Front and Back of first Sheath.jpg

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