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What did you do in your shop today?


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Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

Yesterday, and not my shop.

No knife work since right after Christmas, I've been in furniture mode.  The backstory:  I won a couple of steel scuba tanks with the bottom cut off at an iron-in-the-hat at my local blacksmith's guil

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I gave the heat-treating furnace it's maiden voyage last night normalizing and hardening 11 blades.  33 thermal cycles, 11 quenches, and 5 types of steel all counted (w2, W1, 1084, 80crv2, and cruforgev), and no warps or cracks.  It was also my first time using duratherm-48 quenchant, which Maxim oil developed as a parks-50 clone, and it did a fine job hardening everything.

 If I were to have any complaint, it would be the time it takes to bring a blade to austenizing temperature, because the furnace is running at, say, 1500° and not blasting out 2000°, it can take 10 minutes or more for a larger blade to come up to heat.  Overall it took 4 hours to give 11 blades 3 thermal cycles and austenizing/quenches, which was longer than expected.  I can say with no uncertainty that to be able to know precisely how hot the blade is when it plunges into the oil is absolutely wonderful...

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15 hours ago, Doug Adams said:

Sounds good George, what kind of furnace do you have?

Doug Adams

There's some pics of it a few posts back.  It's made from a hot water heater tank, outside dimensions are 14" diameter, 27" long, lined with 1" ceramic fiber blanket.  The burner comes in through a hole in the back, the front is a hinged steel plate with an opening for the blade.  The thermocouple and probes are Amazon specials...

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2 hours ago, Charles du Preez said:

Interesting Karim. What are you planning on making?

Charles, I was thinking ab a multibar composition for a blade, this will be the spine or centre.  

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40 minutes ago, Karim said:

Charles, I was thinking ab a multibar composition for a blade, this will be the spine or centre.  

A San Mai? Have you spark tested it?

Edited by Charles du Preez
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14 hours ago, Charles du Preez said:

A San Mai? Have you spark tested it?

This steel is not carburized, low carbon. San Mai is other then multibar.

I will need one (twisted core ) billet and maybe springsteel for the edge, get the idea ?

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Recently got a shipment of 1080, so tonight I forged a medium-sized blade. On another note, I made a san-mai billet a while back, and when I did the welding I put some unglazed tile on the bottom of the forge to protect it from the flux. The only problem is that the tile softened and stuck to forge. Ever since, the tile softens up when I use the forge, so tonight I tried scraping it out with a steel bar. Most of it came out, however the bottom of the forge now has a "wet" look when it's hot, and it's somewhat sticky. Is this a problem? Is there any way to clean it out? Will it go away over time?

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On 4/1/2017 at 6:53 PM, jheinen said:

however the bottom of the forge now has a "wet" look when it's hot

The dreaded flux puddle.....your forge has become infected.

On 4/1/2017 at 6:53 PM, jheinen said:

Is this a problem?

That depends on whether you put your work pieces in the puddle and whether you mind having flux get on them. I generally keep my pieces suspended above the welding forge floor. Then again, I also have the luxury of having a dedicated welding forge.

On 4/1/2017 at 6:53 PM, jheinen said:

Is there any way to clean it out?

See comment #2 above. Sooner or later most of it comes out stuck to various pieces that contact it. That is unless you add more flux over time, causing the infection to grow. You could sacrifice a piece of mild steel to the puddle god and remove small amounts over time.........scrape it out while hot.

On 4/1/2017 at 6:53 PM, jheinen said:

Will it go away over time?

See comment # 3 above. Also, it does eventually diminish, unless you add more to it.

 

The typical mistake is using way more flux than is necessary. A light coating, just enough to glaze the surface is plenty. 

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So today I decided to forge up some W-pattern. It is on the large size for my typical work, but I decided to give it a try.

Layers: (10) 1095, (9) 15N20, (4) PN. Here is the initial billet. (8" by 1.5" by ~2.5")

W pattern billet.JPG

After first forging and drawing out it measured 27" by .375" by 1.75".

This was the first time I used no flux other than a soak in diesel fuel before first welding heat.

I got 26 usable inches of length.

W pattern billet (2).JPG

 

Edited by Joshua States
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13 hours ago, Joshua States said:

See comment #2 above. Sooner or later most of it comes out stuck to various pieces that contact it. That is unless you add more flux over time, causing the infection to grow. You could sacrifice a piece of mild steel to the puddle god and remove small amounts over time.........scrape it out while hot.

Ah ha! I'll make a scraper tool out of some mild steel and try scraping it out. Too bad they don't make heat-resistant paper towels :)

 

Thanks!

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2 hours ago, jheinen said:

Too bad they don't make heat-resistant paper towels :)

Or hands :D

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On 4/5/2017 at 10:51 AM, Joshua States said:

The dreaded flux puddle.....your forge has become infected.

Hmmm - As i am a cheapo i decided to make my own Kaowool rigidizer AKA water glass stuff. Sodium Silicate. Of course i home brewed this and essentially made exactly that. Liquid glass. Anyway, i coated my whole forge lining in it and then even mixed some in with the cheapo fire place mortar i got from hardware store and mixed up. Anyway, once my forge gets hot, the whole think starts to look liquid. Any steel that comes into contact gets stuck to it. 

I am therefore going to need to scrap this forge lining, first try failure, and start again. While i am at it i am going to make a slightly bigger one and do two layers of kaowool. Can someone recommend what to coat this in? The fireplace mortar i have access too is 1000C resistant. Any good?

# Should i be asking this elsewhere? Just thought i would jump in here as it is what i am seeing in my forge. 

Edited by Chris C-S
Added another question.
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There is really no substitute for actual refractory in a gas forge.  Sorry mate. The fireplace stuff tends to just fall off, taking bits of wool with it as it goes.

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19 hours ago, Chris C-S said:

Hmmm - As i am a cheapo i decided to make my own Kaowool rigidizer AKA water glass stuff. Sodium Silicate. Of course i home brewed this and essentially made exactly that. Liquid glass. Anyway, i coated my whole forge lining in it and then even mixed some in with the cheapo fire place mortar i got from hardware store and mixed up. Anyway, once my forge gets hot, the whole think starts to look liquid. Any steel that comes into contact gets stuck to it. 

I am therefore going to need to scrap this forge lining, first try failure, and start again. While i am at it i am going to make a slightly bigger one and do two layers of kaowool. 

One layer is fine. Two layers isn't necessarily better. Coat it with satanite. Buy it from hightemptools.com

 

Edited by Joshua States
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On 4/8/2017 at 8:53 AM, Joshua States said:

Coat it with satanite. Buy it from hightemptools.com

Thanks for the advice. I found a local bloke who coats industrial furnaces/kilns etc, who said he would sell me some on the side for some cash. rated for 1400c. 

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Well, not much got done in the shop this weekend as it was time to get this beast filled.

Dumpster (2).JPG

Oh yeah baby, it's pretty full.

Dumpster.JPG

I did have some time to prep the next stack for that W-pattern, and put a few extra bars onto another multi-bar  billet though. Next weekend, I hope to get them welded.

Restack.JPG

 

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That Micarta Looks nice Brian! What kind of cloth did you use? I got a file guide tapped and rough ground. Gonna take it to the machine shop tomorrow to throw on their pressure plates to see how close i got it ground in my platen. Building a gas kiln, additions to my gasser, organizational doo-hickeys! wahoo..!

Edited by Gabriel James
*guess i was drunk*
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