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What did you do in your shop today?


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On 11/12/2021 at 7:06 PM, Gerald Boggs said:

Being that was only 20 bags, might be your body telling you that you're living too easy and you need some physical activity.

 

Hey, I've worked hard to achieve my current level of sluggishness! :rolleyes:  :lol:  Much of the allure in having an advanced degree in ditch-digging is knowing how to avoid hard manual labor. ;)

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A few weeks ago a kid (I say kid, college senior doing an honors thesis, probably 21 or so ) came to my local guild meeting to ask if anyone could help him with a sword. His honors thesis involves han

Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

Forging a copper rose pommel for a misericorde I'm working on. Also going to try and make a couple of tiny ones for the ends of the quillions...    

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I have been a lurker for a while, but I wanted to share what I was working on and look for some advice.  I was working on a chefs knife for my wife, the first picture is the original profile.  during grinding I overheated the edge, so I ground away some of the belly to get back to hard steel.  Then during hand sanding, I noticed that I still had soft sections in the heal of the blade, so I re-hardened and had to grind away even more of the blade.  Now I am thinking I just need to re-forge a new blade.  I didn't include any pictures of the blade after I re-heat treated, but I lost about another 3/8" in depth.  Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed.

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2 hours ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

My dad and older brother shot a couple nice bucks this morning and my dad shot the doe too, about 5 minutes apart.

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Nice deer. When you going to shoot one?

I can't hunt anymore so my brother hunts and I process. I processed 11 last season.

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The motor was definitely wired for high voltage.  I switched it, but now instead of tripping the thermal protection switch, its blowing the circuit breaker instead.  The amp meter shows it drawing 30+ amps instead of the 15 it shows on the data plate.  The redneck in me wants to just put a bigger breaker in my panel, but the firefighter in me thinks that's probably not the right solution.:wacko::blink:

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I got slapped well & truly by a delaminating Scotchbrite belt, love the finish, but they have a learning curve :lol:
Only have a coarse belt left now, and I'm asking myself if laziness is causing my conviction, but I honestly like the nice and even vertical satin (scratch pattern?) better than anything else I can do on a flat grind.

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Final got to start fabricating my new belt grinder this evening, I cut a flange plate on the laser cutter at work this afternoon.        ( Sooooo glad managers have meetings every day :D).

 Welded the flange to a 4 inch wide section of pipe, will take it back to work tomorrow and tru it up in a lathe, I didn't realise until I put the parts together this evening how out of tru the pipe section is :wacko:

Apologies for the state of the workshop, we were hit by a small tornado ( yup !!!!, we got a tornado in the UK!!) and I've been fixing fences etc and haven't quite got round to tidying up. 

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Have a few orders in the tempering oven so went on with getting some more sheap shear knives started.
These were fairly rusty so after cutting them off the spring end and tidying up the edge, have got them sitting in vinegar overnight to do a bit of a clean up of the rust before I start into the blade grind and handles.
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On 11/15/2021 at 10:56 PM, Conan Dunlap said:

Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed.

Hi Conan. Probably best to put questions like this in their own thread in beginners place but no worries. My first thought would be that you used a shallow hardening steel so when you ground away you wound up getting to the soft steel in the middle. What steel are you using?

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Put the contra-nuts on the bones on the power hammer. This  way they wont get loose anymore. I should have done that sooner, but its M14 and I didnt wanted to buy 4 nuts online as normal shops end on M12. :D

Also, new quenchtank from cut off CO2 bottle - but I need to weld 20 cm pipe on the top to be able to quench 110 cm blades.

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10 hours ago, Charles dP said:

Hi Conan. Probably best to put questions like this in their own thread in beginners place but no worries. My first thought would be that you used a shallow hardening steel so when you ground away you wound up getting to the soft steel in the middle. What steel are you using?

Thanks, I will create a new post in the beginners place.  I was using 80CRV2.

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Been a while since a posted a knife as I've been working on Christmas presents. But have been working on this one off and on. First double edged blade I've made and it unfortunately shows - but I learned a lot working on this. First and foremost lesson (learned yet AGAIN!) was NOT to use CruForge V for your first attempt at a given knife style. And it's already drawn blood :wacko:. Was putting it together for the second to last time and it sliced through 10 layers of paper towel and about an 1/8 inch into my finger. Ow....

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Rrrrrrrrrrrrr!  I put a new motor on the surface grinder and everything run beautifully, except the effing rotation is backwards.<_<

 

Looking for a bit of help from those more electrically disposed than me.

This is the data plate for new motor:

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And the current wiring:

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I already tried switching the white and black, which did nothing.  Outside of that I'm hesitant to swap things around as I dont want to burn anything up.  Any ideas?  Is this motor even reversible?

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8 hours ago, Alex Middleton said:

Is this motor even reversible?

No idea about motors but, if it helps, my grinder and pillar drill are both reversible due to my VFD.

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That's definitely an option Charles.  Thank you.  I had one of those "Hey Dumbass" moments last night and realized that I could probably just spin the electromagnet around and move the spark shield to the other end of the table.  I'd still prefer to have it spin in the proper direction though.

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Dry Fit up and handle work on the kitchen knife today
It's a bronze bolster to give some heft (as per the customer's request), a micarta spacer (because I can't seem to get anything flat without removing too much material.....and needed to fill space), and Orange Osage.
Kitchen Knife.jpg Kitchen Knife 2.jpg Kitchen Knife 3.jpg

 

For my second kitchen knife I'll take it...but there are many places to improve on the next:P

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On 11/20/2021 at 5:58 AM, Alex Middleton said:

That's definitely an option Charles.  Thank you.  I had one of those "Hey Dumbass" moments last night and realized that I could probably just spin the electromagnet around and move the spark shield to the other end of the table.  I'd still prefer to have it spin in the proper direction though.

Is it possible to remount the motor from the other direction? Do you have the manual for the motor?

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No on both counts.  All I have is the wiring diagram on the data plate.  It's real tempting to just start switching wires around to see what happens.  If the motor isn't meant to be reversible, I'm afraid I might do more harm than good.

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Have a pair of bearded chefs, a heavy hunter and four of the new 5 inch filliting stainless blades ready for hardening so away to town tomorrow to pick up the liquid nitrgen.
Finished out the day by grinding the bevels on the sheep shear blades so they are ready for handles now.

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I got a chance to get out to the shop after a few weeks away. I managed to get a spiralized handle mostly done on a sword, and got started on the pommel.

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Bought a new multi process welder the other day to upgrade frommthe 1930's stick welder so have a bit of learning the new and hopefully better weld process. Most likely have to break the shed rules and read the instruction book to figure out some of its likes and dislikes. Will do gasless for a start but most probably get gas later on for the small delicate work I often need.

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Also bought a pressure pot to make the stabilising process a bit more time eficient. It usually takes a few days in the vaccume pot and the understanding is that twice that time is needed after the vacuum is released for full penetration of the resin so with the pressure put at 50lb it is reduced considerably. Had a few blocks through it today and 5-6 hrs seems about right but may up the pressure to 60-65 next time.

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Got a batch of stainless knives through the forge to harden them and that took the temp in the shed to over 100f which was just hot enough to be pleased enough to get them done. 2 bearded chefs, a 71/2 and a 5 1/2 in chef, a heavy hunter and 4 5 inch filleters. Have them in the liquid nitrogen at the moment so will do the first temper cycle after tea and the second on in the morning.

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11 hours ago, Garry Keown said:

Bought a new multi process welder the other day to upgrade frommthe 1930's stick welder so have a bit of learning the new and hopefully better weld process. Most likely have to break the shed rules and read the instruction book to figure out some of its likes and dislikes. Will do gasless for a start but most probably get gas later on for the small delicate work I often need.

20211124_163441.jpg

 

Also bought a pressure pot to make the stabilising process a bit more time eficient. It usually takes a few days in the vaccume pot and the understanding is that twice that time is needed after the vacuum is released for full penetration of the resin so with the pressure put at 50lb it is reduced considerably. Had a few blocks through it today and 5-6 hrs seems about right but may up the pressure to 60-65 next time.

20211124_100440.jpg20211124_100450.jpg

 

Got a batch of stainless knives through the forge to harden them and that took the temp in the shed to over 100f which was just hot enough to be pleased enough to get them done. 2 bearded chefs, a 71/2 and a 5 1/2 in chef, a heavy hunter and 4 5 inch filleters. Have them in the liquid nitrogen at the moment so will do the first temper cycle after tea and the second on in the morning.

at pressure soak helps with uptake but i wouldn't cut short the soak as the guys who are using a reduced soak time are using 1000+ psi not 50 also some woods like even more than double the soak 

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On 11/19/2021 at 7:57 PM, Alex Middleton said:

Rrrrrrrrrrrrr!  I put a new motor on the surface grinder and everything run beautifully, except the effing rotation is backwards.<_<

 

Looking for a bit of help from those more electrically disposed than me.

This is the data plate for new motor:

20211119_195139.jpg

 

And the current wiring:

20211119_195101.jpg

 

I already tried switching the white and black, which did nothing.  Outside of that I'm hesitant to swap things around as I dont want to burn anything up.  Any ideas?  Is this motor even reversible?

your best bet is going to be with the orange and yellow wires flipping white and black on ac does nothing i haven't reversed a motor in a wile but you may just have to move one of the wires or you might have to move both that being said usually if its reversible it will say on the label

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That was my thought as well.  I'm going to give that a try next time I'm out in the shop.  I have a feeling that it's not going to do anything though.  It sucks.  The motor isn't a TEFC, otherwise I'd put it on my 2x48 as one hell of an upgrade to the 1/2 hp that's on there now.

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