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What did you do in your shop today?


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21 hours ago, Alex Middleton said:

That was my thought as well.  I'm going to give that a try next time I'm out in the shop.  I have a feeling that it's not going to do anything though.  It sucks.  The motor isn't a TEFC, otherwise I'd put it on my 2x48 as one hell of an upgrade to the 1/2 hp that's on there now.

its not ideal but until i upgraded to a 3phase motor so i could use a vfd to control speed i never had any thing on my grinder that wasn't an open motor never killed one but i did out grow one or two

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A few weeks ago a kid (I say kid, college senior doing an honors thesis, probably 21 or so ) came to my local guild meeting to ask if anyone could help him with a sword. His honors thesis involves han

Forging a copper rose pommel for a misericorde I'm working on. Also going to try and make a couple of tiny ones for the ends of the quillions...    

Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

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Appreciate it sir.  I just tried switching them and got nothing.  Shy of getting really creative, that motor is a no go for the surface grinder, at least running on 115 anyway.  I was thinking about switching everything around to run in the opposite direction, but I'm afraid it could cause the wheel to loosen up which would be less than ideal. :D

Edited by Alex Middleton
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Finally got my forging area laid out a bit better.

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Also finished roughing out my first real foray into forged kitchen knives.

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213 layers of 1084 and 15n20, with a 15n20 edge bar welded on.  My little bottle jack press made a huge difference in getting this thing done.  I'd probably still be hammering on the second stack without it.  We'll see how well this ends up coming out.

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It's alive, IT'S ALIVE! MWAHAHAHAHA!!!!

 

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I had an old face mount pump motor sitting on the shelf.  Turns out that one was reversible.   The temporary mounting system is somewhat, "custom".

 

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But now that I know it works I can fab up a new mounting plate for it.

 

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Hello all.  It's been a good week.  Had decent weather for a few days, so took advantage and remembered to take pics of what was done yesterday.  

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These (along with 3 others from yesterday) are now soaking in vinegar, and 6 others from the other days are now in their 1st tempering cycle after quenching...

 

Edited by billyO
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I've made my own heat-treating kiln.

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Had to adjust a few things, but today I was able to do my normalizations, heat for quench, and temper on 2 different batches of blades. I'm thrilled!

 

 

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Handsanding on the 7 1/2 (rimu) and 5 1/2 inch chef's (dyed lacewood) and a heavy hunter I want to try on the hill next hunt with the orange liners and spacer.

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Good morning, all.  For some reason, I seem to be in a picture taking mood, and here's the blades after heat treating.  2 of them had slight warps out of the quench, and this time I only needed the normal 2 tempering sessions to get them straight.  I need to remember to do my asymmetrical grinds after  heat treating....20211128_082410.jpg

 

PS- The funky shaped tang on the bottom one is where I had a coupon that I broke off to check the grain.  This one is my first completely powder blade and I wanted to check my grain. 

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Nice array of stuff, guys!

 

Personally, I screwed up a folder beyond repair at the last step of the build.  I can salvage the blade and spring, but the liners and bolsters are trash, as are the briar burl scales.<_< Sucks, but that's why not many people build traditional slipjoints, right?  If it was easy everyone would do it.  Every single step is a chance to screw up, and I do, frequently! :unsure:

 

And I also discovered that the 1/16" nickle silver rod I ordered months ago is 0.064" instead of 0.0625" like my drills, reamers, and heading die. Expensive, unusable (for my purposes) trash. Wish I could remember where I got it so I could call 'em up and let them know my feelings on the subject.   I have told the place that sold me AEB-L marked 0.094" that was actually 0.112" (a pic of the label with a micrometer helped), and they made it better.  

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I came home from 4 days in the NM woodland and found this had arrived. One of my winter projects is a step closer to reality. Actually, several projects got a step closer.......

 

Superwool (1).jpg

 

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On 11/28/2021 at 1:10 PM, Alan Longmire said:

the 1/16" nickle silver rod I ordered months ago is 0.064" instead of 0.0625" like my drills, reamers, and heading die. Expensive, unusable (for my purposes) trash.

Not trash. I have had the same problem and I fix it with a bit of 400 grit sandpaper between my thumb and forefinger and the drill press........YMMV

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Tore out all the firebrick in my forge today, it was definitely time.

When I first started forging I was so efficient that I could forge and work on bevels with my file jig in between heats. Or at least I thought I could, untill the forge got up to heat and I melted a horseshoe rasp in half. Since then I have tried multiple times to melt steel together with copious amounts of flux to make damascus.

However, I am older, wiser, and more educated now, so I am redoing my forge in preparation for my next damascus endeavors. ;)

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10 hours ago, Matt Walker said:

I think I know where that one was going and I'm :(.

 

You and me both.

 

And Joshua, I know I can do that, it just greatly annoys me that I have to. Rod sold as 1/16" should be that, not 5/64".

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Not entirely knife related, and it was last night, but I thought I'd share the hobby that helps pay for the hobby of knife making :)
 

A Few small Beads and other trinkets I dremel out of brass and other various materials.  I know my soldering is atrocious, but after patina-ing it turns out kind of neat. :lol: 
Large two-face Tag3.jpg Wide Eyed Oni brass-cu.jpg Wide Eyed Oni Cu-Brass.jpg Wide Eyed Oni menpo glow horns.jpg

Wide Eyed Wanderer Ring1.jpg Wide Eyed Oni SC-Bronze.jpg

Edited by Jaron Martindale
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Added another resident to my "Shelf of Shame".  I've been working on a damascus kitchen knife lately.  Finally got it ready to etch, and the pattern was completely jacked.  It was supposed to be 106 layers on each side of a 15n20 core.  Poor forging caused it to come out off center a touch and ended up with a nice pattern on one side, and almost no pattern whatsoever on the other.  I'm pretty sure I know where I went wrong so I'll chalk it up to get another learning experience. 

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17 hours ago, Alex Middleton said:

Added another resident to my "Shelf of Shame

Why not complete it and keep it for yourself? If your welds are good and you like the shape, it'll make a good tool you'll use daily and will eventually come up with pointers for the nexts.

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1 hour ago, Joël Mercier said:

Why not complete it and keep it for yourself?

Someday I may.  There's a few minor design issues that I wasn't totally happy with as well. My shelf is right above my workbench.  It gives me a constant reminder of the mistakes that have been made, and how to avoid them.

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1 hour ago, Gilbert McCann said:

Finished forging this chef knife yesterday....

Looks pretty good to me.  Is that going to be an integral? What was the starting stock size?

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10 hours ago, billyO said:

Looks pretty good to me.  Is that going to be an integral? What was the starting stock size?

Yes integral. I started with 1 1/8 I used that because I had been having so much trouble pulling down the heel. I think 1 inch would be ok now. Here it is with some profiling and tang grinding. 

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Edited by Gilbert McCann
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22 hours ago, Gilbert McCann said:

Yes integral.

I would very much appreciate seeing you grind that. An integral is on my list and I'm trying hard to figure out the grinding.

On 12/7/2021 at 2:44 PM, Alex Middleton said:

My shelf is right above my workbench.  It gives me a constant reminder of the mistakes that have been made, and how to avoid them.

I have a similar shelf that is getting crowded.....:blink:

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