Alan Longmire Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 21 hours ago, Alan Longmire said: Although I did start forging the hawk for the next hammer-in day before yesterday... Proof! Converted 1.25" round wrought iron to 1.25" x 5/16" bar and forged the head, forged the rest of the bar to 1.5" x 3/8". Next I'll forge that last bit of round down to 7/8" round or so, after which it'll go on the lather to be turned into the bowl. In a couple of months I may start a WIP thread on it. The intent is for this to go in Iron in the Hat at this year's Bowie Memorial Hammer-in. 8 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said: That little one is worth it so fingers crossed, it almost inspired me to do dovetailed bolsters on a Kukri I'm busy with. Much appreciated! If I didn't have a disk grinder with a tilting table I wouldn't have tried the dovetailed bolsters. Most folder makers that do that mill the liners and bolsters from solid 416 stainless using end mills and dovetail cutters. I used the disk grinder to bevel the bolsters prior to soldering on the liners, then used it to put matching bevels on the scales. It's an experience... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Gerber Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 12 hours ago, Alan Longmire said: Much appreciated! If I didn't have a disk grinder with a tilting table I wouldn't have tried the dovetailed bolsters. Most folder makers that do that mill the liners and bolsters from solid 416 stainless using end mills and dovetail cutters. I used the disk grinder to bevel the bolsters prior to soldering on the liners, then used it to put matching bevels on the scales. It's an experience... Exactly why I canned that idea, work rest for the disc grinder on the side of my contact wheel does not allow for tilt, and the work rest for the platten is such a stupid design that despite the fact that the platten and the work rest can tilt, if they're anything but square to each other there's a huge gap....just waiting to suck something in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Petrina Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Upgrade on the spanner on the big grinder and leg to support that long arm. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Petrina Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) Big camper for a friend. This is about 7 mm thick, bloody hatchet. Edited January 28 by Jaro Petrina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Petrina Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Also forged me a seax. Its sandwich high carbon steel between construction steel and about 22 cm long. Also 8 + mm thick at this moment, so I hope to end up with correct historical thickness. It needs to go once more into fire to be straightened before the grind. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua States Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Weekend steel making. 4 “So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.” The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing. Josh http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg J.States Bladesmith | Facebook https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71 https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Dougherty Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 My hobby equipment often gets usurped for projects at work. We have something going on where we need to cast a prototype manifold in aluminum. I told the young engineer on the project to get some of the 3D printer filament that is intended to be used as investment casting positives. Neither of us had ever used this material before, so I suggested he print off a few trial run parts. Of course he prints off something that he didn't think was castable. I didn't think it was either, but it is shocking what you can get away with in a vacuum machine. I don't know much about setting up sprues, but it still came out pretty ok. 3 -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert McCann Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) First try of feather(by myself).10 layers that were previously stacked 3 times. Edited January 30 by Gilbert McCann 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Morgan Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Got a healthy start on a 7” k tip out of some 3/16” 1084. Profile cleaned up, and got the distal taper mostly where I want it to be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pieter-Paul Derks Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I finally got around to building myself a disc grinder, I was kind of scared of the electrical wiring as I'd never done something like that before, but it really wasn't hard at all. One horsepower motor with cheap vfd from amazon, I already love it for squaring handle blocks. 4 http://mefecit.nl/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua States Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 18 hours ago, Gilbert McCann said: First try of feather(by myself).10 layers that were previously stacked 3 times. What's the center photo? Looks like a canister weld prep. BTW- Nice collection of concrete saw blades 4 hours ago, Pieter-Paul Derks said: I finally got around to building myself a disc grinder Game changer time! “So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.” The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing. Josh http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg J.States Bladesmith | Facebook https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71 https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Dougherty Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 4 hours ago, Pieter-Paul Derks said: ... but it really wasn't hard at all. Shhh! Some of us get to make a living because everyone is afraid of the electrical wizard juice! 2 -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert McCann Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) @Joshua States The middle is a 4 inch canister of 1084 powder and nickel foil to mimic "jelly roll" top picture is after first forging just over 1/2×2 inches. Then forged that to 2 1/2×.350×10 inches cut it into 10 pieces stacked and split. Thinking Choppers from concrete blades. Edited January 30 by Gilbert McCann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Gerber Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Think I made a mistake, this Kukri has been floating around the shop in rough ground form a few years. HT'ed it recently and originally planned on black micarta bolsters with wood, decided last minute to pimp it up with brass. For some unknown reason I decided solder was unnecessary. Did a good job peening the 3x4mm pins, but it sounds/feels like there's some resonance there even after the scales were glued in. Pretty sure I can't solder it now without messing up the rest of the handle. If I have to do over it will go back in the pile, think I'll start shaping the handle and see how it goes after some weight loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeroen Zuiderwijk Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, Gerhard Gerber said: Think I made a mistake, this Kukri has been floating around the shop in rough ground form a few years. HT'ed it recently and originally planned on black micarta bolsters with wood, decided last minute to pimp it up with brass. For some unknown reason I decided solder was unnecessary. Did a good job peening the 3x4mm pins, but it sounds/feels like there's some resonance there even after the scales were glued in. Pretty sure I can't solder it now without messing up the rest of the handle. If I have to do over it will go back in the pile, think I'll start shaping the handle and see how it goes after some weight loss. How about inserting some thin liquid PVA? Through capillary action it should suck it up, and fill any void. Jeroen Zuiderwijk Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Gerber Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 3 hours ago, Jeroen Zuiderwijk said: How about inserting some thin liquid PVA? Through capillary action it should suck it up, and fill any void. Locally PVA would refer to the cheapest paint for your house, googled it and I assume you're referring to Polyvinyl acetate, a.k.a wood glue? I was thinking of trying some CA glue before I start shaping the the handle so it doesn't stain the micarta liner under the wood, but if my assumption and google-foo are correct, I would be interested in why you suggest it. For me, wood glue is great for wood and not much else, but thinking about it I do believe it's a better filler than CA glue, and that would be the main function, filler not adhesive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeroen Zuiderwijk Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) 18 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said: Locally PVA would refer to the cheapest paint for your house, googled it and I assume you're referring to Polyvinyl acetate, a.k.a wood glue? I was thinking of trying some CA glue before I start shaping the the handle so it doesn't stain the micarta liner under the wood, but if my assumption and google-foo are correct, I would be interested in why you suggest it. For me, wood glue is great for wood and not much else, but thinking about it I do believe it's a better filler than CA glue, and that would be the main function, filler not adhesive? Sorry, mixing up glue abbreviations. I meant of course CA. And then the low viscosity type. Edited February 3 by Jeroen Zuiderwijk 1 Jeroen Zuiderwijk Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Gerber Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Super glue it will be then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Tiney Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Finally got some time in the workshop after work this evening ,got the mounting .plates cut ,drilled ,tapped and mounted for the guide rollers (1 hole left to drill ,but iv'e to remove the motor first to gain access ) , measured up for the Platen plate so I can get one laser cut at work on monday. So far the only things ive had to buy are , the 5/8th Pully boss,,and a Handfull of bearings,(one of our engineers has turned some propper rollers ,the bearings are just for alignment ) along with a magnetic on ? /off switch and box. The 1 1/5 hp motor has a damaged Terminal cover so was scrapped and was donated to me by my boss!, all the steel including the laser cut circle for the Pully all came out of the scrap bin . Nuts bolts and cap screws liberated from the company stores !! Hopefully next week should see the first run with a belt on ,fingers crossed it all works 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faye Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 I've been practicing scratching up steel on purpose... I have one of Ron smiths scroll work books and that has helped tremendously with my designs. Shading lines are still hard for me to get my head around though. These are both with a hammer and three different gravers. I bought a used graver max machine and made a couple cuts with it before it started smoking and making an awful noise. Good news is I got a very good deal on it and it came with a lot of other good tools, and I might be able to fix it. Until then, back to the hand tools. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaron Martindale Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 I got around to finally gluing up another knife. I'm really liking this shape so far. I'm also working on another tanto...Still deciding if I want to be brave on a water quench, try an interrupted, or just go for oil... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Petrina Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 Done. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Petrina Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 With a bit of grinding familiar pattern appears. Scored on local srapyard. 250#. Now under my big grinder. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Gerber Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 I was on leave, but couldn't go on holiday, so instead of a financial hangover I'm in tool-up or die mode. New grinder ordered and paid for, and bought a Ryobi bandsaw on Friday. Not great, but I can get various TPI blades for it and it should cut a bit more square than the meat saw I'm using. I have the fan, so no more excuses not to start with the ribbon burner forge, just need to buy all the steel and most of the plumbing Huge problem, I'm out of space. Fitting in the grinder was already an issue, now there's the saw as well. Realized the new forge will need a stand and wheels so I can move it inside when not in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaro Petrina Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 OK, that rent is not gonna pay itself. I dont sell my stuff normally, but I have decided to make couple to actually sell for money. I might keep the bowie actually. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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