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What did you do in your shop today?


Joshua States
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21 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Although I did start forging the hawk for the next hammer-in day before yesterday...

 

Proof!

 

20230122_114231 small.jpg

 

Converted 1.25" round wrought iron to 1.25" x 5/16" bar and forged the head, forged the rest of the bar to 1.5" x 3/8".  Next I'll forge that last bit of round down to 7/8" round or so, after which it'll go on the lather to be turned into the bowl.  In a couple of months I may start a WIP thread on it.  The intent is for this to go in Iron in the Hat at this year's Bowie Memorial Hammer-in.

8 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

That little one is worth it so fingers crossed, it almost inspired me to do dovetailed bolsters on a Kukri I'm busy with. 

 

Much appreciated!  If I didn't have a disk grinder with a tilting table I wouldn't have tried the dovetailed bolsters.  Most folder makers that do that mill the liners and bolsters from solid 416 stainless using end mills and dovetail cutters.  I used the disk grinder to bevel the bolsters prior to soldering on the liners, then used it to put matching bevels on the scales.  It's an experience...

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12 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Much appreciated!  If I didn't have a disk grinder with a tilting table I wouldn't have tried the dovetailed bolsters.  Most folder makers that do that mill the liners and bolsters from solid 416 stainless using end mills and dovetail cutters.  I used the disk grinder to bevel the bolsters prior to soldering on the liners, then used it to put matching bevels on the scales.  It's an experience...

Exactly why I canned that idea, work rest for the disc grinder on the side of my contact wheel does not allow for tilt, and the work rest for the platten is such a stupid design that despite the fact that the platten and the work rest can tilt, if they're anything but square to each other there's a huge gap....just waiting to suck something in 

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Also forged me a seax. Its sandwich high carbon steel between construction steel and about 22 cm long. Also 8  + mm thick at this moment, so I hope to end up with correct historical thickness.  It needs to go once more into fire to be straightened before the grind. 

newseax2.jpg

newseax1.jpg

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Weekend steel making.

Pieces-parts.jpg

 

 

Billets.jpg

 

 

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“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

J.States Bladesmith | Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith

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My hobby equipment often gets usurped for projects at work.  We have something going on where we need to cast a prototype manifold in aluminum.

 

I told the young engineer on the project to get some of the 3D printer filament that is intended to be used as investment casting positives.

 

Neither of us had ever used this material before, so I suggested he print off a few trial run parts.  Of course he prints off something that he didn't think was castable.  I didn't think it was either, but it is shocking what you can get away with in a vacuum machine.

 

I don't know much about setting up sprues, but it still came out pretty ok.

PXL_20230129_193646071.MP.jpg

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-Brian

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I finally got around to building myself a disc grinder, I was kind of scared of the electrical wiring as I'd never done something like that before, but it really wasn't hard at all.

 

One horsepower motor with cheap vfd from amazon, I already love it for squaring handle blocks.

 

IMG_20230123_172343.jpg

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18 hours ago, Gilbert McCann said:

First try of feather(by myself).10 layers that were previously stacked 3 times. 

What's the center photo? Looks like a canister weld prep.

BTW- Nice collection of concrete saw blades

 

4 hours ago, Pieter-Paul Derks said:

I finally got around to building myself a disc grinder

Game changer time!

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

J.States Bladesmith | Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith

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@Joshua States The middle is a 4 inch canister of 1084 powder and nickel foil to mimic "jelly roll" top picture is after first forging just over 1/2×2 inches. Then forged that to 2 1/2×.350×10 inches cut it into 10 pieces stacked and split. 

Thinking Choppers from concrete blades. 

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Think I made a mistake, this Kukri has been floating around the shop in rough ground form a few years. HT'ed it recently and originally planned on black micarta bolsters with wood, decided last minute to pimp it up with brass. 

For some unknown reason I decided solder was unnecessary. Did a good job peening the 3x4mm pins, but it sounds/feels like there's some resonance there even after the scales were glued in. 

Pretty sure I can't solder it now without messing up the rest of the handle. 

If I have to do over it will go back in the pile, think I'll start shaping the handle and see how it goes after some weight loss. 

 

IMG_20230202_070142.jpg

IMG_20230202_070121.jpg

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1 hour ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

Think I made a mistake, this Kukri has been floating around the shop in rough ground form a few years. HT'ed it recently and originally planned on black micarta bolsters with wood, decided last minute to pimp it up with brass. 

For some unknown reason I decided solder was unnecessary. Did a good job peening the 3x4mm pins, but it sounds/feels like there's some resonance there even after the scales were glued in. 

Pretty sure I can't solder it now without messing up the rest of the handle. 

If I have to do over it will go back in the pile, think I'll start shaping the handle and see how it goes after some weight loss. 

How about inserting some thin liquid PVA? Through capillary action it should suck it up, and fill any void. 

Jeroen Zuiderwijk

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking

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3 hours ago, Jeroen Zuiderwijk said:

How about inserting some thin liquid PVA? Through capillary action it should suck it up, and fill any void. 

Locally PVA would refer to the cheapest paint for your house, googled it and I assume you're referring to Polyvinyl acetate, a.k.a wood glue?

I was thinking of trying some CA glue before I start shaping the the handle so it doesn't stain the micarta liner under the wood, but if my assumption and google-foo are correct, I would be interested in why you suggest it.

For me, wood glue is great for wood and not much else, but thinking about it I do believe it's a better filler than CA glue, and that would be the main function, filler not adhesive?


 

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18 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

Locally PVA would refer to the cheapest paint for your house, googled it and I assume you're referring to Polyvinyl acetate, a.k.a wood glue?

I was thinking of trying some CA glue before I start shaping the the handle so it doesn't stain the micarta liner under the wood, but if my assumption and google-foo are correct, I would be interested in why you suggest it.

For me, wood glue is great for wood and not much else, but thinking about it I do believe it's a better filler than CA glue, and that would be the main function, filler not adhesive?


 

Sorry, mixing up glue abbreviations. I meant of course CA. And then the low viscosity type. 

Edited by Jeroen Zuiderwijk
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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking

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