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What did you do in your shop today?


Joshua States

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24 minutes ago, Bob Ouellette said:

 

These are all 1084. 

 

 

That has no equivalent here. How does it forge compared to something like O1. I mean, the ballbearing steel being abouz worst on my scale and some of the more manganese loaded spring steel I use for the choppers as close contenders for bad forging. O1 is "splat" and it just assumes the shape. Still good steel though. 1084 woul dbe difficult to find in our system.

 

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7 hours ago, Jaro Petrina said:

 

 

That has no equivalent here. How does it forge compared to something like O1. I mean, the ballbearing steel being abouz worst on my scale and some of the more manganese loaded spring steel I use for the choppers as close contenders for bad forging. O1 is "splat" and it just assumes the shape. Still good steel though. 1084 woul dbe difficult to find in our system.

 

I prefer forging 52100 to just about anything else......my one experience with O1 round bar wasn't pleasant :ph34r:
Have to add, got some game-charger advice, haven't forged an actual bearing in years, now use the races.  I have a bucket full of Timken bearing races that are very convenient for a mid to large knife, and some big sections of larger races for bigger projects.
Even have half a race from some Caterpillar that's large enough you can cut off a wedge and forge it into a small hatchet.

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15 hours ago, Jaro Petrina said:

 

 

That has no equivalent here. How does it forge compared to something like O1. I mean, the ballbearing steel being abouz worst on my scale and some of the more manganese loaded spring steel I use for the choppers as close contenders for bad forging. O1 is "splat" and it just assumes the shape. Still good steel though. 1084 woul dbe difficult to find in our system.

 

I think O2 steel would be quite close, it forges very nice in my opinion, not too different from O1.

Sometimes the 80crv2 I use is labeled as 1080+, but I don't know if that is correct, or just marketing.

 

 

 

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I can't remember what it's like to forge anything other than 1084 or 1018. I was pretty shocked after 2 years of being out of the forge that the 1084 didn't move nearly as much under my hammer as the 1018. I was able to hammer out a pair of tongs from two pieces of 1/4" x 1" x 8" (6.3 x 25.4 x 203 mm) in about an hour. The only thing that stayed the same was the hinge area. I probably should have used less material in the long part of the jaws and gotten an extra inch or so in the reins.

 

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Bob O

 

"When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints."

 

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18 hours ago, Jaro Petrina said:

How does it forge compared to something like O1.

 

Much easier.  Easier even than leaf springs. You can probably get W1 or equivalent, which forges about the same.  

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2 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

 

Much easier.  Easier even than leaf springs. You can probably get W1 or equivalent, which forges about the same.  

 

On my scale 52100 forges about worst, unless really yellow, the hammer just jumps off. Even my press does not like squeeze 65 mm virgin 52100 round stock and I have 10 HP engine turning that pump.  The springs are hit and miss. I just had batch of springs which do not seem to have much legure, relativelly easy to forge, grind after forging. Then I took another one (from a different vehicle). Hard to forge, hard to grind, impossible to drill with anything but carbide drill etc. basically self hardening I assume that was mitsubishi offroad car.  O1 on my scale is really easy to forge. As I said "splat" and its there. The soft mantle sandwiches I have been cranking out latelly are easiest of them all. I think I forge one about 15-20 minutes? About 4 heats, if I leave out the press and go directly for hammer maybe 3 heats is all there is needed for an 8-10" blade......

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There's a 100kg box in my shop, inside waits a grinder, some assembly required.

.....and I'm stuck at work.

Found a welding shop that can help with sheet metal work for a new forge, and contacted a machining shop to find out if&when they can help to fix the issues on my existing grinders.

"I love it when a plan comes together", feel like Hannibal puffing a cigar

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I hear treated 3 more kitchen knives forged out of 1084 and a 4th forged from 1095. I got a bit of a differential heat treat with the thickness of the 1095. After the quench I stuck them in the kitchen oven while the HT oven cooled down enough to run proper temper cycles. I did 2 rounds at 350° F.

 

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Bob O

 

"When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints."

 

My Website

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Most at half inch now, I guess  it will give me 3 birka type blades and 3 broader seaxes and one I need to make into a knifeblade.  Had trouble with the forge which "runs cold" until I noticed that the ventil on the flask is almost entirelly shut and opened it, after which it went like a supernovae and was going actually too hot to do 3 stocks at once.  Its definitelly too much.  These are big blades, most will be 20" .

image000000a.jpg

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Well I did an Interrupted Quench, and no TINK! HUZZAH!

Tanto.jpg

 

A quick few minutes on an 80grit water stone showed we have a hamon and some beautiful grain showing right now :)

tanto hamon and grain.jpgtanto hamon.jpg

 

I didn't pick up much curvature, but with it being such a small blade and an interrupted quench I kind of expected that.  Now on to figuring out how to do the rest, lol!

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Six hour straight on Saturday, ripped the shop apart, got the new grinder on an unsatisfactory mount, figured out what I need to mount the VFD and wire everything.

Based on what we achieved (friend came and helped) I reckon I'll be out off commission for at least 3 months.
I've got half an hour after work to get to hardware shops etc, that's if there nothing else important that needs doing.

Only Saturday to get the work done, as long as I'm not at a market.

I'll get small things done where possible, but first priority is the forge build.

 

One thing really bothers me, I was completely unaware of how bad the mess from grinding dust had become.

Came to the conclusion the only way is nothing on the floor that can trap the dust, no idea how I'm going to manage that.
   

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I got my deba finished yesterday and got the other 3 blades ready for handles. I also drew another of my reverse centaurs, titled "Stay Weird." Yes, that's page 52 of the reverse centaur series :lol:

 

39df83af-1343-45d7-aaee-dcaa5c0067dd_copy_600x800.jpg

 

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Bob O

 

"When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints."

 

My Website

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On 2/27/2023 at 3:36 AM, Gerhard Gerber said:

Six hour straight on Saturday, ripped the shop apart, got the new grinder on an unsatisfactory mount, figured out what I need to mount the VFD and wire everything.

Based on what we achieved (friend came and helped) I reckon I'll be out off commission for at least 3 months.
I've got half an hour after work to get to hardware shops etc, that's if there nothing else important that needs doing.

Only Saturday to get the work done, as long as I'm not at a market.

I'll get small things done where possible, but first priority is the forge build.

 

One thing really bothers me, I was completely unaware of how bad the mess from grinding dust had become.

Came to the conclusion the only way is nothing on the floor that can trap the dust, no idea how I'm going to manage that.
   

 

I've got a catch under the belt to catch most of the grit that's connected to my shop vac through a cyclone dust separator (I really don't need to explode my shop vac). It really helps with the dust that makes it away from the grinder.

Bob O

 

"When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints."

 

My Website

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36 minutes ago, Jaro Petrina said:

Hm.

image000000B.jpg

 

Very nice. I love finishing a knife because then I don't have to hassle about it anymore.  Are you happy with it?

Bob O

 

"When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints."

 

My Website

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4 hours ago, Bob Ouellette said:

 

Very nice. I love finishing a knife because then I don't have to hassle about it anymore.  Are you happy with it?

Didnt quite had enough time as this was done when one of my friends was visiting. I used medieval knifemakers resin to fix the handle, wanted slightly other angle of that one. The blade came out right even though I forged out the edge on that sandwich piece.

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Welp.....I was suppose to have new sanding belts and stainless foil today. The snow is getting ridiculous here. Another foot or so the last 3 days. 

I live in Heber....its about 15 min from park city.

Been working on some stainless lately. The top two are some bolivian rosewood and some left over dyed curly mango.

Gonna walk the top two into work tomorrow and tell my boss I am giving her one =) Just started a new job for the first time in my life a month ago...and I will be 57 this year. lol

I have always heard not to grind stainless before you heat treat,,,,,but these are thick enough I dont think a little off is gonna hurt.

I reused some foil and got a leak where the green spot is on the one....I assume thats what happened.

 

stainlessnew.jpg

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1 minute ago, Kreg Whitehead said:

I have always heard not to grind stainless before you heat treat,,,,,but these are thick enough I dont think a little off is gonna hurt.

I reused some foil and got a leak where the green spot is on the one....I assume thats what happened.

 

The stainless blades I made I didn't have a problem with grinding before heat treat. As long as you clamp it, it should be fine. In my experience it'll bend and warp as you grind it anyway.

 

Congrats on the new job btw.

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Bob O

 

"When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints."

 

My Website

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1 hour ago, Bob Ouellette said:

 

The stainless blades I made I didn't have a problem with grinding before heat treat. As long as you clamp it, it should be fine. In my experience it'll bend and warp as you grind it anyway.

 

Congrats on the new job btw.

Thanks man...my old commute was 90 miles round trip to slc.

I do not miss that....especially this time of year.

I coulnt take it anymore so I got on of em ground will a smoked piece of 24 grit.

fighter.jpg

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Saturday morning dedicated to forge plumbing shopping, also got a pine board which a buddy helped me fix to the wall behind the work bench.

Got some screw in hooks and handles for my files that didn't have, but it was beer o'clock by the time the board was hung, shopping really tuckers me out:P

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