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What did you do in your shop today?


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Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

A few weeks ago a kid (I say kid, college senior doing an honors thesis, probably 21 or so ) came to my local guild meeting to ask if anyone could help him with a sword. His honors thesis involves han

Forging a copper rose pommel for a misericorde I'm working on. Also going to try and make a couple of tiny ones for the ends of the quillions...    

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I'm a work-rest grinder, which means I grind all my blades on a work rest and use a push stick to apply pressure where I need it. 

As for the file-jig with the carbide faces, those can be pretty pricey, so if you primarily set your plunge cuts with files rather than a grinder, or you can be pretty careful with a 2x72 running at slow speed, you can make your own file jig from hardened O-1 like I originally did.

O-1 file jig (2).JPG

O-1 file jig.JPG

And for those of you who are not familiar with work-rest grinding technique: https://youtu.be/il88qhfoJnQ

 

 

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Looks like I need to rethink my grinding setup.     Great vid Joshua,  never thought of approaching flat grinds that way.  Seems much more efficient than just using the flat platen.    

Got to do some sharpening and testing of my latest this evening.   It thinned out more than I'd like in my efforts to make it sharp.   I got it sharp, just not razor like I'd like.  I guess because it's so thick at the ridge and narrow at the base, I couldn't get the right edge geometry, even with the hollow grind.  I got it at .250 on the nose at the ricasso, then .215 at the base of the ridge  which tapers down to around .167 at the ridge of the tip.     It's sharp and will cut, but it's more of a sharpened shank than a fine cutter. 

My leather wrap rode up the handle a little whilst I was throwing the thing.  It sticks pretty darn good and deep from 5 paces.   Stabbed into some cat's claw, a real dense wood in the Ironwood family,  stabbed and twisted, stabbed and bent out, and chopped into it as good as I could.   No damage.  The tip bent slightly a couple times during throws and stab/bend tests, which is expected, but no breaks, and stabbed and bent the other way to true it back up, which worked well.   Then I stabbed into an old pressure tank which is probably 1/8" thick or so.   Tip came out unscathed.   All in all, I liked how it performed.

STABBY5.jpg

A question for the metallurgists around.    Is there any negative affect a long tempering process can have on a blade ?   I tempered this one in a convection oven at my work.   Left it in there around 7 hours at 350.   Touched 420 for about an hour, then back to 350 for the rest of the day.  Probably overkill.  I dunno.     I mean, in theory if I left a blade in an oven at 350 - 450 (whichever) for over 24 hours,   I don't reach critical temp, so no real negative effects?   So all that can happen is I get full conversion from martensite to tempered martensite ?    Probably just overthinking things again..,

 

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What model PM is that J ??

I'm in the process of installing a DRO system on my RF-31 style mill drill, and planning on a DRO for my lathe soon.............B)

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1 hour ago, Clifford Brewer said:

What model PM is that J ??

I'm in the process of installing a DRO system on my RF-31 style mill drill, and planning on a DRO for my lathe soon.............B)

It's a PM-25MV. I got it set up and it's surprisingly quiet. I'm glad I got this one vs. the Grizzly. I've also got a X-axis power feed that I need to install. 

rSNYHWkgRlyZrLq7c8umJA.jpg

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Just now, Clifford Brewer said:

Yer gonna like what you can do with that puppy...................:D

Speaking of which, beyond milling guard slots, shoulders, and fullers, or making the odd file guide or two, what do you folks use your mill for? 

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Shaft key ways, rifle parts, tool holders, gears, bolt hole patterns on flanges, and bout any thing ya can't do on a lathe

within the capacity of yer machine..........B)

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I should be done grinding on this tonight....its close. I need to lose about 3/8" off the spine to get under 2"...and about 1/4 off the blade to get at/under 10".

My grinding jig is just this piece of aluminum angle. The drill bit stops me at the same spot on my platten/rest for a nice crisp plunge line.

 

2choppa.jpg

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I am still working on my power hammer project; i got the anvil welded in solid, filled the empty spaces under the platform with wood, spray foam, and sheet foam to deaden the sound, and yesterday i was working on layout for the column, and cutting for the upper anvil to column brace. I had ran out of gas for the cutting rig, and switched over to plasma cutting yesterday, but smoked that, too......off to the gas supplier today for O2 and acetylene. I will try to remember to take some photos today.

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Well, I'm an engraver now... Luckily the piece I'm using for inspiration is just as sloppy.  I don't think he'd ever engraved anything before either.

Phosphorus bronze destined for sheath fittings...

IMG_20180818_184342350.jpg

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On ‎8‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 9:46 PM, jheinen said:

Speaking of which, beyond milling guard slots, shoulders, and fullers, or making the odd file guide or two, what do you folks use your mill for? 

You can also surface grind stuff like blades, guards, spacers, butt caps, etc. Surface grinding your scales for frames or full tangs is easy to do on the mill. Get yourself a flywheel cutter.

2 hours ago, GEzell said:

Well, I'm an engraver now... Luckily the piece I'm using for inspiration is just as sloppy.  I don't think he'd ever engraved anything before either.

Phosphorus bronze destined for sheath fittings...

Not bad for your first go laddie…..

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6 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Not bad for your first go laddie…..

Heck, I've been doing it off and on since 2001 and I still can't do parallel lines freehand! :lol:  Looks good, and yes, captures the feel of the period.  B)

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I finally have a working coal forge.  Most of the forging I've done up to now has been at friends' forges or at venues where we demonstrate muzzleloader gun barrel forging.  Now I need to make my fire tending tools.  All I have is a coal rake.

IMG_2361.JPG

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12 hours ago, GEzell said:

Well, I'm an engraver now... Luckily the piece I'm using for inspiration is just as sloppy.  I don't think he'd ever engraved anything before either.

Phosphorus bronze destined for sheath fittings...

IMG_20180818_184342350.jpg

It takes practice, as well as putting it off for years until you can gather enough confidence, or just get tired and want to finally finish something and go with whatever happens :)  Is that for the Dürbheim longsax by any chance?

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And I finally got another big cermonial bronze sword finished! That's no.2. Then I can start finishing no. 3, then another one for myself, and then I already have people lined up for more.... But once I finished no.3, I'll see if I can do some other stuff purely for fun again. I need that :) 

P1040722a.jpg

Edited by Jeroen Zuiderwijk
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12 hours ago, Joshua States said:

You can also surface grind stuff like blades, guards, spacers, butt caps, etc. Surface grinding your scales for frames or full tangs is easy to do on the mill. Get yourself a flywheel cutter.

I have a 2" face mill. How do you hold a blade for surface milling the ricasso? I can't see how to do it in a vise. Someone told me you can use a liquid metal fixture like bismuth, but that seems like it would be rather more work than it's worth. 

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5 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Heck, I've been doing it off and on since 2001 and I still can't do parallel lines freehand! :lol:  Looks good, and yes, captures the feel of the period.  B)

I'd read that straight lines are extremely difficult so figured that would be a great first project...:)

My client and I have a theory that the artist who did the original was rather drunk at the time, so I think I hit that low bar with flying colors.

It's not going to be an exact replica, I'm borrowing design elements from several places.

24c73b489b86af1cb819aab7f967ddc6.jpg

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2 hours ago, Jeroen Zuiderwijk said:

And I finally got another big cermonial bronze sword finished! That's no.2. Then I can start finishing no. 3, then another one for myself, and then I already have people lined up for more.... But once I finished no.3, I'll see if I can do some other stuff purely for fun again. I need that :) 

P1040722a.jpg

That is an epic piece of work.

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3 hours ago, jheinen said:

I have a 2" face mill. How do you hold a blade for surface milling the ricasso? I can't see how to do it in a vise. Someone told me you can use a liquid metal fixture like bismuth, but that seems like it would be rather more work than it's worth. 

Do you have a set of hold-down blocks?

Edited by Joshua States
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2 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Do you have a set of hold-down blocks?

Yes, I've got a set of those step-blocks that adjust to different heights. I suppose I could clamp the blade and tang with those, just ensuring that I don't bend them too far.

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I put one of those pyrometer-thermos coupler thingys on my welding forge.

InkedPyrometer (1)_LI.jpg

Yes, the temp reading looks accurate...…

Pyrometer (2).JPG

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