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Outside this morning doing a bit of clean up I found a coup,e of smaller bits of angle iron.  Now I’m wondering i set them up against the feet of the anvil but I’m wondering how well they’d work if I drilled a hole in the angle iron for bolts if those would actually hold the anvil down fairly well.  I’ve got two pieces that will fit the long way of my anvil.  If I drill in the hole in the angle iron dead center that would put the bolt between the center of the two feet of the anvil.  I could do this for both sides.  That would be instead of locking it down facing the horn and end of the anvil.   I’m still trying to debate whether or not that would work.  They fit but not exactly snug.

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Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

Yesterday, and not my shop.

Finally got my bench cleared off and back on some knives. This one was fun, but glad to see it done.   My oldest grandson turned six this weekend and I promised to make him a box for his tre

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1 hour ago, jheinen said:

Well, it's giving me trouble already. After getting it unloaded I fired it up to see if everything was still working. I have to press the treadle sharply all the way to the floor a couple of times to get it to start hammering. Once it starts, it won't stop until I turn it off. Letting up on the treadle won't stop it. Seems like maybe the clutch is slipping?

Sounds like your throw-out linkage is set too loose. You are essentially "throwing" the clutch wheel to get it engaged and it gets stuck because the return pull is not tight enough. Mine looks like this.

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Check the mechanism that the treadle operates. There should be a threaded adjustment coupling or turnbuckle of some sort. Ttightening it in one direction will engage the clutch earlier and retract it sooner. Loosening it does the opposite.

You want to turn the adjuster so that the clutch and flywheel get closer together. I have mine set so that about 50% depression of the foot treadle starts to engage the hammer and 75% is pretty much full out. This allows me to control the force of the blows. I can get the hammer to tap a piece or smash the snot out of it.

Edited by Joshua States
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Unfortunately not on mine. 

4 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

There should be a turnbuckle on the connecting rod between the treadle and the clutch.  

 

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Nice springs, Cody!

There should be some way of adjusting the tension on the clutch somewhere on the hammer, and there should be a return spring somewhere in the linkage.    On mine the spring is on the treadle, and it has a turnbuckle.  

You may want this DVD: https://www.anvilfire.com/bookrev/index.php?bodyName=manzer/manzer.htm&titleName=The Power Hammer Cycle by Dave Manzer

 

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19 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

I don't even have a little giant hammer and already want the DVD just by reading the description. 

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23 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Nice springs, Cody!

There should be some way of adjusting the tension on the clutch somewhere on the hammer, and there should be a return spring somewhere in the linkage.    On mine the spring is on the treadle, and it has a turnbuckle.  

You may want this DVD: https://www.anvilfire.com/bookrev/index.php?bodyName=manzer/manzer.htm&titleName=The Power Hammer Cycle by Dave Manzer

 

Unfortunately there does not appear to be any way to adjust the tension on mine. In fact, it looks like someone had previously tried to adjust the tension by reshaping the clutch fork. I just ordered the DVD.

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So went outside to the shed/shop today.  Took the anvil stand inside.  Grabbed a couple short pieces of my angle iron.  I took my little 5 speed drill press and drilled out a couple holes into the angle iron.  I then drilled out a couple smaller starter holes into the anvil stand itself.  I then proceded to place the angle iron onto the feet of the anvil on both sides.  I'm quite amazed with how well one large deck screw will hold down an anvil securely to the stand.  It's quite impressive.  How ever, the end result is this video here absolutely NO ringing steel.  It works. I love it.  I only maybe spent about 15 minutes locking this thing in.  As you can see in the video there is one deck screw per side.  I'm still considering getting something to place under the anvil so it eliminates it even further.  I'm considering in investing in some rubber conveyor belt.

 

Edited by AndyB
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I am not an expert on these but i think the clutch needs to be oiled; maybe check to see if the clutch housing is gunked up, and make sure the clutch fork moves smoothly forward and back as the treadle is depressed, and the springs are adjusted properly.

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This would be my first indended kitchen/chef knife. It's about 5.5" long by 1.75" wide. Tryed to a full bevel grind and got it down to a zero edge, but as a result the spine got very thin. It flexes nice and every thing, but I'm just concerned about the over all thickness. 

What thickness to you guys usually shoot for for chef knives? And what about paring/petty knives?

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3 hours ago, Cody Killgore said:

Finally pretty much done. Just waiting on a v-belt to come in to test it out. 

20181124_112112-1209x1612.jpg

 

what exactly is that thing?  A rolling press?

Edited by AndyB
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14 hours ago, Cody Killgore said:

A rolling mill

Looks Great Cody,   

If I may recommend though,  if you find that it slips too much, I would change out the final pulleys you have there (the 2 pictured) to sprockets of the same size.   You want slip as to not tear up your motor, but you also want to transfer the torque appropriately to the rollers.  In the original design, I believe it's all pulleys up to the final drive, where it turns to sprockets and chain.    I am interested however, in finding out how well it works with the pulleys instead, so by all means please keep us updated :)

Unless you got a gear box hidden in the back there maybe ?

Also, I have also built in the pull lever on my mill, but have not used it so far.  Got it wired up and out of the way.    Though, I have not yet attempted to forge weld a billet on the beast yet, in which case with the right heat, I think the lever would be more useful.  Let us know how it all works out.

Edited by Bruno
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55 minutes ago, Bruno said:

Unless you got a gear box hidden in the back there maybe ?

Thanks!

There is a 30:1 right angle gearbox on the back. The small pulley is hooked up to the shaft from that.

I really wanted the lever to produce tapers, so I am looking forward to trying that out.

Edited by Cody Killgore
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On 11/24/2018 at 3:49 PM, Mike Ward said:

What thickness to you guys usually shoot for for chef knives? And what about paring/petty knives?

Anywhere from 1/16" up to 3/16" depending on how I feel that day......;)

It seems that most of my knives wind up at 0.156" thick at the spine.

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I'm pretty stoked, called a weld fab shop, got the metal being cut for me today for my forge table top.  I wont be able to pick it up until about 3 today though.  But I should have a forge table no later than tomorrow built and ready to go for the next fire.

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Well said to say I had to dismantle my forge table frame no big deal.  Did that and then I wanted to forge.  So I busted out the break drum forge and fired it up.  Still works great so at least I have something to forge with.  So I also cut up a couple more piece of 1075/1080 steel.  I got a start on another blade and a better shaped one this time.  I like the way it looks not only that I got the set down facing the right way this time lol.  I did that before I started doing the tip.  The handle is a bit squared but I'm going to do some sanding on it later this evening.  I did normalize the blade.  Here's a shot of it.  BTW it's actually straight.  But well find out once I get it on the belt sander.

IMG_20181129_133927274.jpg

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Long overdue rip apart clean out and put back........by 11am stuff lying in the sun was too hot to touch.

I've nuked myself out of production with this move, but some things are necessary.

My kiln should be here during the week, 2nd belt grinder next week, and Sunday I started on a stand for the 1st grinder.

Meanwhile I bought some real flame-retardant blue-collar pants for my afternoon job today 

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