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Joshua States

What did you do in your shop today?

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Thanks for the info @Bruno

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Practice.  You have the noob grind on it, just start there and slowly press the blade into the belt while adding pressure towards the spine.  Watch from the side to make sure you're not going all the way up and leaving a divot in the spine.  

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3 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Practice.  You have the noob grind on it, just start there and slowly press the blade into the belt while adding pressure towards the spine.  Watch from the side to make sure you're not going all the way up and leaving a divot in the spine.  

Yea I've still got the "Noob" grind going lol.  I've been trying to work on that a bit more.  

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@Gerald Boggs are you just providing information on the conditioner or is there something specific that you find alarming?

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Ive got another quick question. Can I use a leather wheel with some stropping compound on a bench grinder to get my knives razor sharp?? 

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I have been a finish grinding, hand sanding maniac.

 

Hand sanding 320 v2.jpg

Hand sanding 320.jpg

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, AndrewB said:

Yea I've still got the "Noob" grind going lol.  I've been trying to work on that a bit more.  

Do you have a wheel, or just a flat platen?

https://youtu.be/_5WtQOWoc4s

https://youtu.be/il88qhfoJnQ

 

Edited by Joshua States

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21 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

Do you have a wheel, or just a flat platen?

Flat platen no tool rest

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29 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

I have been a finish grinding, hand sanding maniac.

Those are looking pretty sweet! That's a ton of work.

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@Joshua States I'm so sick & tired of welding and grinding and canopy-building I actually thought wistfully about hand sanding yesterday! roflmao

:lol:

Looking good.......B)

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11 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

Ive got another quick question. Can I use a leather wheel with some stropping compound on a bench grinder to get my knives razor sharp?? 

You can, but only if it's sharp enough to benefit from stropping in the first place.  Stropping just polishes, it does not sharpen.

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12 hours ago, Mike Ward said:

just providing information on the conditioner

That

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, AndrewB said:

Flat platen no tool rest

If you forge your blades, start forging the bevels in, all the way up to about 1/4" below the spine. That will establish a base that you can grind to. If you are working stock removal from flat stock, get some good flat bastard and mill files. establish the bevel with files first, and clean up on the flat platen and grinder.

Edited by Joshua States

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57 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

If you forge your blades, start forging the bevels in, all the way up to about 1/4" below the spine. That will establish a base that you can grind to. If you are working stock removal from flat stock, get some good flat bastard and mill files. establish the bevel with files first, and clean up on the flat platen and grinder.

The two blades that I'm working on right now are pure stock removal.  Nothing but grinder work with these two.  I watched your video 2nd one last night I do like the surface grinder set up, that I wouldn't mind having myself.  Also ordered myself a nice little 100 pound pull magnet last night as well lol.  I needed one anyway.  Thanks to an amazon credit from Customer Service I literally paid nothing for it lmfao.

 

Yesterday I had to go through crap just to change out the blade in my band saw.  The screws in my metal cutting bandsaw were in so tight that I couldn't break them by hand, no I don't have a philips head drill bit.  So I wound up stripping the screws oddly enough trying to get them out.  In the end welp ANGLE GRINDER time.  Ground off the two problem screws and took off the cover changed out my band saw blade.  It was pretty irritating that I had to grind off two of the screws just to take the cover off to change the blade.  Talk about a bunch of BS.

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Posted (edited)

Drilled out the pin holes in the first stock removal project and cut the brass pins for it.  Just need good dry weather to do the heat treatment.  I also ordered a couple of bi metal 62 inch blades for band saw in case I want to do a couple of bolsters. I'll have a much easier time cutting them out.  Maybe?  I dunno.  But at least I'll be able to cut metal with the ryobi now as well.  Hurry up and wait for the blades lol.

Edited by AndrewB

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5 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

You can, but only if it's sharp enough to benefit from stropping in the first place.  Stropping just polishes, it does not sharpen.

How do I know if it’s sharp enough? 

I have a wicked edge sharpener, and the highest grit stone is 600.....  I think?? Can’t remember right now.  I need a few more stones, but right now I can’t get it shaving sharp. 

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5 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

How do I know if it’s sharp enough? 

I have a wicked edge sharpener, and the highest grit stone is 600.....  I think?? Can’t remember right now.  I need a few more stones, but right now I can’t get it shaving sharp. 

Got any tomatoes in your refrigerator?

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3 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

I need a few more stones, but right now I can’t get it shaving sharp

Honestly, if the edge geometry is right it should be as "sharp" as it going to get with the coarsest stone... Everything from there is just refining the edge, making it smoother. After the coarsest stone the bevels should be set and the edge should be sharp, but it's like a serrated blade on a microscopic level. The subsequent stones and even the strop is just refining those original bevels.

I don't know about other people, but if I can't effortlessly cut paper after my coarsest stone, I'm not done with that stone yet (make sure your not fighting the burr).

Hope that helps.

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Posted (edited)

 

5 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Got any tomatoes in your refrigerator?

Always!    

 

Thanks Adam that does help.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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If you can slice a tomato with it and not destroy the fruit then you know it's good.  Paper works okay too.

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52 minutes ago, Adam Weller said:

Honestly, if the edge geometry is right it should be as "sharp" as it going to get with the coarsest stone... Everything from there is just refining the edge, making it smoother. After the coarsest stone the bevels should be set and the edge should be sharp, but it's like a serrated blade on a microscopic level. The subsequent stones and even the strop is just refining those original bevels.

I don't know about other people, but if I can't effortlessly cut paper after my coarsest stone, I'm not done with that stone yet (make sure your not fighting the burr).

Hope that helps.

If I could pin a single post, I'd do it with this one.  Well said! 

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Posted (edited)

Drilled the pin hole and the lanyard hole, and the rest are for weight loss, Im going to use Copper pins for this one, Copper looks really good on dark colored wood, so Ive looked at Bog oak, Gaboon Ebony, and Wenge, Im probably going to go with the Ebony,  I really wanted to use Stabilized Mammoth tooth, But that is waaaaay to expensive. My local Hardwood store sells the Gaboon ebony. Maybe Ill use carbon fiber...  What do you do to finish Carbon fiber? Because Im pretty sure linseed oil wont do anything to it.

IMG_2613.jpeg

Edited by Conner Michaux
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21 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

If I could pin a single post, I'd do it with this one.  Well said! 

Thanks Alan... I must admit it took me far to long to figure this out.

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1 hour ago, Adam Weller said:

Honestly, if the edge geometry is right it should be as "sharp" as it going to get with the coarsest stone... Everything from there is just refining the edge, making it smoother. After the coarsest stone the bevels should be set and the edge should be sharp, but it's like a serrated blade on a microscopic level. The subsequent stones and even the strop is just refining those original bevels.

I don't know about other people, but if I can't effortlessly cut paper after my coarsest stone, I'm not done with that stone yet (make sure your not fighting the burr).

Hope that helps.

So after a 200 grit stone I should be able to melt through paper??

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