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Joshua States

What did you do in your shop today?

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6 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

So after a 200 grit stone I should be able to melt through paper??

Think coarser.  If it won't cut paper after 60 grit it's not sharp enough to move to the next grit.

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8 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

So after a 200 grit stone I should be able to melt through paper??

My coarsest Stone (DMT duosharp diamond stone) is 220. 

“Melt” might be a bit strong but I can hold a piece of paper in my hand and basically let gravity cut the paper. 

The cut is going to have a frayed edge at this point. As you refine the edges of the cut wil get smoother.

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Posted (edited)

Thats cool, i'm clearly not sharpening right..

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Posted (edited)

What I do is keep grinding on the water stone until I can feel a nice burr all along the edge on the opposite side. If you don't feel the burr everywhere, it means you did not reach the apex in those places. Then you switch sides and repeat. If you wanted a 220 grit edge, once you've built a burr on both side, you simply start to apply much less pressure and switch sides often to get rid of the burr. A trick I learned from Murray Carter is to slide the edge on a piece of soft wood with just the weight of the blade a couple of times to help get rid of that burr.

Edited by Joël Mercier

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Posted (edited)

Im pretty horrible at sharpening on a stone, thats why I have the wicked Edge, But I am getting way better at hand sanding! On the knife Im currently working on all the scratches go in the same direction!:D  Ill post some pics soon.

 

And all of a sudden it started hailing today.. and now it’s sunny

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Edited by Conner Michaux

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Posted (edited)

Two blades ready for heat treat tried as best as I could to straighten out the bevels.  But at least I’ll be able to do two at once. And I tried my first go at plunge lines.  Just realized on my EDC knife the smaller one, the pin holes were not exactly line up.  One is a bit higher.  OPPS.  Operator error.  Oh well.  Lol.

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C35C6269-52B0-4603-A399-A306FD3FCEFE.jpeg

Edited by AndrewB

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Today I decided to finish this little PW blade that has been laying on my workbench for a couple of months. It has a small inclusion at the edge and it pissed me off :lol:. I think it'll be a nice gift for family nonetheless. 

I tried the coffee etch for the first time. Next time I'll sand to #1500 instead of #1000. The blade is not as smooth as I expected.

IMG_20190403_195823.jpg

IMG_20190403_195606.jpg

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5 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

. It has a small inclusion at the edge and it pissed me off 

Can't see it but that must be heart-breaking....stunning blade!

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I love the bold pattern from the low layers.  Looks great!

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Just picked up a 20 ton hydrolic lift from HF.  Gah they didn't have any of the 12 ton ones so I was kind of stuck buyin the 20 ton but it was probably the better option to have.  Either way now just got to start acquiring the steel to build my mini forging press.  I'm also planning on heat treating those two blades today as well since it looks like the weather is going to play nice so later this morning I'll break out the forge and get it going.

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On 4/3/2019 at 11:05 AM, Alan Longmire said:

If I could pin a single post, I'd do it with this one.  Well said! 

Allow me to help you with that...….

https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/38867-sharpening-tips-tricks/

 

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Posted (edited)
On 4/3/2019 at 5:59 PM, Joël Mercier said:

Next time I'll sand to #1500 instead of #1000. The blade is not as smooth as I expected.

I hand sanded a blade to 1500 once. Never again. (actually, I did it twice)

Edited by Joshua States

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8 hours ago, Joshua States said:

hand sanded a blade to 1500 once. Never again. (actually, I did it twice)

Why is that?

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Just got most of the steel for the frame of my forging press today.  So that's a good start, now I just gotta figure out how I'm going to weld it up with the welder I have lol.  I may have to make multiple passes with it and go extremely slow and  hope to god I get a good weld bead and a good weld lol.  I'm not kind of wishing I had really bought a stick welder instead LMAO.:lol::lol:

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Just picked up a small stick welder this morning hoping to try it out later if everything dries out enough.  But wow this little 80 amp HF arc welder IS TINY.  Lmfao I could carry it in my backpack if I needed to.  There were lots of good reviews about it.  Plus it will save my back unlike my 50 pound flux welder.

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Posted (edited)

Today was the day to gather the fitting materials for guards and spacers for these 6 knives I'm working on. They are all hand sanded to 320 grit and it's time to make the guards. I forged out some W-1 (1" drill rod) for the dagger pommel and guard, cast some red bronze for the little hunter, and cast some shibuichi plates for the camp chopper. The rest of the fitting materials are pieces of Nickel-silver, 400 series stainless, and 1095. Next step is slotting and fitting the guards

6 Knives at 320 V2.jpg

Red BZ castings 2 V2.jpg

Edited by Joshua States

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Damn... that’s a lot of grinding.

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So I heat treated my knife tonight, I did everything right, but for some reason it didn’t harden..?? The oil was hot enough and the blade was past decalasense, however you spell it. There was absolutely no scale, instead it has a cool looking black finish on it, is that just scale that hasn’t popped off yet?

image.jpg

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I guess you did the file test on the edge? If so you may be filing through decarb. Try filing a bit deeper to see if it'll start to skate.

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Posted (edited)

Excuse my hovering over the forum I've been doing, but I'm stuck inside sick as a dog, and therefore very bored. 

Conner, it looks to me like you didn't get it quite hot enough (or didn't quench soon enough) You might check for decarb as Joël suggests, but typically on a hard blade that scale will pop off some in the quench leaving smooth gray steel. Bubbly appearance in the steel itself is a sign of grain growth and overheating. 

You really gotta spot that decalescence. Or try a magnet to get you close and then let it get a little hotter. Remember to get into that quench fast. 

Edited by Zeb Camper

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2 minutes ago, Zeb Camper said:

Excuse my hovering over the forum I've been doing, but I'm stuck inside sick as a dog, and therefore very bored. 

Conner, it looks to me like you didn't get it quite hot enough (or didn't quench soon enough) You might check for decarb as Joël suggests, but typically on a hard blade that scale will pop off some in the quench leaving smooth gray steel. Bubbly appearance in the steel itself is a sign of grain growth and overheating. 

You really gotta spot that decalescence. Or try a magnet to get you close and then let it get a little hotter. Remember to get into that quench fast. 

Dont feel bad I haven't been able to forge lately either same been stuck inside lol.  But at least I've been getting to work on my press under my car port at least.  Being sick sucks I hope I dont get sick haven't been in almost 2 years now.  With out a cold.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Zeb Camper said:

You really gotta spot that decalescence.

I tried, but for some reason it didn’t happen at all, I was watching the blade in the forge until it got to bright orange, but no decalescence.  So at that point I didn’t want the steel to overheat and I assumed that I had missed it. 

Joël I filed into the edge about 1/16 of an inch and it seemed to be getting softer.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Is that more O-1?

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16 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

I tried, but for some reason it didn’t happen at all, I was watching the blade in the forge until it got to bright orange, but no decalescence.  So at that point I didn’t want the steel to overheat and I assumed that I had missed it. 

Joël I filed into the edge about 1/16 of an inch and it seemed to be getting softer.

If you could not spot the decalescence and are unsure if the blade was heated enough, simply pull it out of the forge and wait for recalescence. If it doesn't happen, it means the blade was not heated enough. 

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