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Joshua States

What did you do in your shop today?

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9 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Is that more O-1?

Yep, thats O-1

 

 

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In that case, you were probably just on the verge of decalescence at bright orange, depending on your lighting situation.  This is where a pipe in the forge really helps to see the effect.

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Posted (edited)

I did have a pipe, Always, I will never heat treat without one.  I'll let it heat up a little bit more when i try again.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Posted (edited)

I’m going to start making a puukko out of a piece of Damascus my friend gave me, I don’t have enough material for the tang so here is my idea I’m going to make the tang really wide so I can forge it down a little bit, till it’s about an inch longer, it will probably still be pretty wide at that point so I’ll stick remove the rest

The knife it’s self will be stock removal, I’m getting a little disc sander next week so I’ll be able to finish forged blades, I’m never able to get them the same thickness

So today's work is going to be a lot of stock removal, Some sanding, a lil bit o forging, And a lot of Bob Seger

And Ive just realized I have no idea what steel is in this billet, Nor what pattern it is. Lets hope its 1084/nickel steel, I forgot what its called.. 15-20?

 

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Edited by Conner Michaux

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what i did today

finally after nearly 20 years of off and on knife tinkering, i have a 2x72 grinder.  i've had a 1x30 and 2x36 the entire time and made due pretty well.  this should increase fit and finish of future blades.  it is mostly home made.  bed frames make up the stand legs.  wheels, d plate and platen are from origin knifemaker.  high quality stuff.  highly recommend his stuff.  got a variety pack of belts on order.  next week when my dad comes over we will wire in a switch for electrical.

 

 

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also received my burner from cgr customs.  didnt get to hammer much.  was more focused on grinder.

i need to create a top plate of steel and weld the burner to that.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Neil Young said:

also received my burner from cgr customs. 

Hey Neil! Nice grinder and burner. If I might add a few words of advice...

Your burner looks like its getting way too hot. I fear that the combustion of your propane will start way back in your burner tube. Its not dangerous necessarily (until your rubber hose gets too hot), but your burner won't last too long. Typically you want it recessed 1" or so back into your insulation. Speaking of insulation, those hard firebricks are gonna suck all the heat up until they get thoroughly toasty at which point they may start to emit heat. You want soft firebricks. They will reflect heat back into the forge and into your workpiece. 

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Yesterday I started polishing this fantasy sword/really big knife. Originally it was part of a larger sword that broke on me, but I decided to salvage it. I must say, I was never a big fan of EDM stones until I tried one yesterday with some oil as a lubricant. Now I'm a big fan.

Hopefully I'll have this done by the end of the week.

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Okay Okay Okay.... I broke down, the weather was good enough this afternoon to fire up the forge.  A bit on the windy side but it was managable. So I also set up the forging press.  I am still a bit worried about it but I guess that's just my safety cautious side on me not allowing the forging press to go down full bore on the material.  How ever I heard one snap  But it didn't sound like it came from the top more of the bottom on the plate that the jack is sitting on so I'm going to have to check that.  I checked the top welds they seemed to be holding quite well.  How ever I took my time with it.  I wound up going very slow and only doing 2 presses in the same place and then moving down the piece.  I didn't hear any other snaps or anything from the press.  I'm thinking it was just the first run that it was doing that.  So Where did that leave me?  I think it's half way forge welded I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to get this flat enough from the side of the billet.  First run was successful.  I do think that billet is forge welded now though!

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I looks welded.

I moved my power hammer to the new house. I'm stoked now!!! Im putting the bigger motor on it hopefully tonight and redoing the tredle so it wraps around the anvil do I can work 180°around it.

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Posted (edited)

Cut this little puukko-ish knife out of a piece of Damascus billet today. It’s about 6/32 thick.  Believe it or not I’m actually starting to enjoy filing....  :blink:   I really need a file guide though, I’m not sure how I’m going to get these shoulders at the same level without one.

and I’ve got a question, I don’t have a grinder, as you guys know, and I would like to put a scandi grind on this blade. After heat treat, how do I sharpen it?? It’s going to be about 1/16 at the edge after heat treat, so do I just go to the stones and rub it till it’s sharp? 

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Edited by Conner Michaux
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I should note that in the picture ^^above^^ I was NOT the one riding the power hammer into the tree!!!

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17 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

I should note that in the picture ^^above^^ I was NOT the one riding the power hammer into the tree!!!

Right...... LOL:lol::lol::lol:

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Posted (edited)

Do you guys know of any websites that sell Unstabilized knife blocks? Im trying to find a nice piece of birch, or juniper.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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22 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

Do you guys know of any websites that sell Unstabilized knife blocks? Im trying to find a nice piece of birch, or juniper.

I have this small piece of black walnut. :lol: 

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Posted (edited)

That’s pretty small! :P  If I can’t find Birch, Juniper, or curly Chestnut, I might have to get some of that..

Edited by Conner Michaux

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I was thinking about getting this burner https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Foundry-Burner-Regulator-Gauge/dp/B01FTGA720/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=forge+burners&qid=1554940501&s=gateway&sr=8-7  yea its a venturi.  But I'm also wondering what the best way to drill out a hole in fire brick is.  I'm planning on building a small propane forge for heat treating and working on crappy days.

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Check out the Black beauty burners from Anvilfire.com  Ive heard that they are really nice burners, I’m pretty sure there 45-79$ depend on the size.

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

Check out the Black beauty burners from Anvilfire.com  Ive heard that they are really nice burners, I’m pretty sure there 45-79$ depend on the size.

Just ordered one lol... I should have it either on Saturday or Monday LOL.    

Edited by AndrewB

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Red oxide primer went on the canopy I'm building.

Realized that with the upcoming Easter weekend, there's very little chance of getting glass fitted to the rear door. No glass means the door can't be welded in place, which means the aluminium cladding can't go on......means the build is stalled for 2 or 3 weeks.

Good news is since most of the nasty welding and grinding is done, I can uncover, clean up and see what is left alive of my knife making stuff.....and get back to that.

I had a horrible realization that 2019 will likely be a low point in the number of knives I've managed to make per year.

I have two cleavers that are still not done, two more on order.  I have a 52100 blacksmith's knife and something like a Japanese style chopper on steroids that I badly want to get to, as well as two chef's knives in 14C28 that I have marked out but nothing else.....

That could take the rest of my year.......

 

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Posted (edited)

Both bevels are filed in, I was going to put a Scandi grind on it, but I can’t afford all the stones, so I’ll just put a flat grind on it, I’m using Cherry Birch burl for the handle. I might start a wip for this one, I’m gonna need some help soon.

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Edited by Conner Michaux

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Posted (edited)

I’ve sanded all of the file scratches out of the blade. only 150 grit scratches! I kinda want to make the flat line invisible, using a rubber pad to sand it, but I’m not sure yet.  Edit I just realized I sanded it sharp in one area :wacko:

What is the process for etching Damascus? And what is a good grit to sand it to, to get a good etch?? 

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Edited by Conner Michaux

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@Conner Michaux This is looking great! 

First off, In order to get a handle to fit nice and tight around the base of the blade, you'll need to bevel the tang all the way back. 

Etching Damascus requires an acid, or corrosive salt (such as ferric chloride). If you're on a budget, you can use warm white vinegar, lemon juice, or coffee. You'll need about a 400 grit polish to start. Degrease the blade with alchohol or acetone and let it dry before dipping it in. Don't get any fingerprints on the blade. Etch for a few minutes or so until you have a good amount of black oxides on the blade. Then, wetsand the blade with the 400 grit paper. Repeat until satisfied. 

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Very important to use a hard backer on the final sanding post etch.

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48 minutes ago, Zeb Camper said:

@Conner Michaux This is looking great! 

First off, In order to get a handle to fit nice and tight around the base of the blade, you'll need to bevel the tang all the way back. 

Etching Damascus requires an acid, or corrosive salt (such as ferric chloride). If you're on a budget, you can use warm white vinegar, lemon juice, or coffee. You'll need about a 400 grit polish to start. Degrease the blade with alchohol or acetone and let it dry before dipping it in. Don't get any fingerprints on the blade. Etch for a few minutes or so until you have a good amount of black oxides on the blade. Then, wetsand the blade with the 400 grit paper. Repeat until satisfied. 

I can get ferric, and I just sanded the blade at 400, and I have acetone. Wetsand with water, or something else like windex? I will go draw file the rest of the tang so its beveled right now, Im going to heat treat tonight.  But I might be to impatient and etch it tomorrow after its finished tempering, Will the vinegar/lemon juice Etch it as well as ferric?  And does it have to be fresh lemon juice, or can it be from the store? I'm thinking the preservatives in the store lemon juice will effect the etching process in some way, Thanks for the help guys!!

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