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What did you do in your shop today?

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Finished another folder.  Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open.  O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales.  Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's

Yesterday, and not my shop.

No knife work since right after Christmas, I've been in furniture mode.  The backstory:  I won a couple of steel scuba tanks with the bottom cut off at an iron-in-the-hat at my local blacksmith's guil

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Forged some bearing races on Saturday, hoping to make 3 blacksmith knives and a SLO with (hopefully) Japanese flavour from a whole bearing race




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6mm thick 40mm wide barstock 5160.......if I make it too thin I decarb the edge during HT, if I grind post-HT I sit with the same issues as now, only in hard steel.

Looks good but there are grinding marks visible at an angle after going back to 220 grit and many hours sanding

Peppertree burl I hope to use for the handle




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Not today, but over the last couple of weekends, I made this:

bell 1.jpg

What does it do?  Well, when you weld it to the top of an old oxygen tank and hang a disk of wood in it, it turns it into a bell.

bell 3.jpg

Then I needed something to hang it from, so yesterday I made this:

bell 2.jpg

You can't see it for some reason, but the whole bracket is forged from 3/8" x 1". and there's a sharp step at the base of the fleur-de-lis where I fullered in a groove and then flattened the bar out sideways to about 3/16" to get the width I wanted.  I still need to clean it up and paint it.

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2 hours ago, Zeb Camper said:

I bought this :D:D:P:o:lol:B)

I’m jealous! I want one of those. 

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My mentor sent me some photos yesterday, unfortunately not a liberty to share, but it was a set of 6 kitchen knives in Damasteel.

What delighted and scared me at the same time was the serrated bread knife :ph34r:

When I asked him how he managed it the answer was simple: "Sh*t job, file and sandpaper"


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Welded half of one of the off-cuts from the body of my homemade anvil to it for a horn and hardy hole. Still have more welding to do, and a metric ton of grinding... plus, I’m really not sure how I didn’t notice that the hardy hole wasn’t square until after I had several beads strung already. 

The other half of the off-cut I welded on to make the upsetting block...


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Not real shop wise but got the pc upgraded so I can do VR glad I got that done should have steel next week hopefully so I’ll be Abel to get back to forging.

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Bad day in the shop.....

HT'ed a cleaver made from an old saw blade and it turned into noodle.  Ran it through again, few seconds in the oil and straight between two heavy plate.  Edge is glass hard, still one wobble but I should be able to grind that out.

Same cannot be said for a large Santuko's blade in fresh off-the-shelve 5160. 6mm thick, 40mm wide and full flat grind, stock removal all the way.......I was not expecting the warp about 2" from the tip.

Tried the same as with the cleaver, as soon as I put my weight on the plates I heard the crack.

The ONLY good new is the grain is so fine I almost want to ask "what grain?" B)..........helps a bit :(




Edited by Gerhard Gerber
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Finished up on adding the horn to my homemade anvil this morning. There’s a bit of a waist where the welds are coming up the sides, but with a 3/4-7/8” fillet, I don’t think it’ll be a problem. Also made a ball stake (I think that’s the correct term) from a 1-1/4” b7 bolt. Cleaned it up on the belt grinder, but I kinda wish I’d made it sit up higher from the face. 


Edited by Eric Morgan
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Fired up the forge yesterday to make myself a dogleg chisel for working on Japanese scabbards (saya); going over to try to work on it some more today.

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Just bought a canopy today, it’s 10x16 with the side panel flap thing up, this will cover my forging area, so I can forge without the sun beating down on the anvil. 




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Etched the puukko, and it looks awful.... a de-greased it with actetone before I etched and after it etched I sprayed it with windex and scrubbed it down with steel wool. 


Forgot to mention, I etched it for over 10 mins. 

Edited by Conner Michaux
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Dilute the ferric, and don't use steel wool.  That will remove all the oxides evenly, which is the last thing you want.  Use very fine sandpaper on a hard backing.  That will hit only the high spots.

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On 5/23/2019 at 11:07 PM, Gerhard Gerber said:

The ONLY good new is the grain is so fine I almost want to ask "what grain?" B)

Aces man.

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On 5/16/2019 at 5:14 PM, Jeremy Blohm said:


Why does the 15n20 get so dark after the quench?


Edited by Jeremy Blohm
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Existential crisis looming :wacko: .......and I have my biggest Bowie ever soaking in instant coffee

I had O1 blanks cut almost exactly the size and shape of a small flat file broken in half.....no guessing my inspiration :P

Only made two knives from these, no feedback yet so I made a workshop knife for myself and a leather cutter for my Dad and sheath maker. More lessons were learned.

I started 2019 with good intentions of making kitchen knives and achieving something, but after some brandy I need to admit that if I do not make that Wakizashi, the Dacian Sica which I don't even understand why I like it so much........I might as well quit.

Amazing how quick and easy things (except HT) can be if function is the only concern.  User leftover micarta for the the Dad's, slightly voidy rolled hessian and cotton for my workshop











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Finished up a new mosaic bar this morning.  This is destined for a number of smaller knives I have in mind so I was looking for a finer pattern.  I had some issues with controlling the pattern on one of the 4-way welds, so it ended up being a bit random, but it's kind of pretty.




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12 hours ago, Mike Ward said:

Think I’m going to make a bottle opener for warmup each time. 

Make two. That way there's no down time waiting for the piece to heat up. As long as the forge is burning......

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