What did you do in your shop today?

[Mike Ward 90]

Made yet another knife, some small hooks and a hot cut hardie. The hardie is mild with a edge of some scrap 80crv2 welded in.

[Chris Christenberry 346]

I spent the better part of today fitting the brass guard to the EDC I'm working on.  I've never made a guard so this has been a serious learning process for me.  Think I have it to a point I can leave it alone until I get the knife heat treated and am ready to solder the guard.  I've got some 60/40 solder, but don't know what flux to use.  Someone mentioned Clean Brite, but I think that's not for electrical solder.  Any suggestions?

[Alan Longmire 2,723]

6 minutes ago, Chris Christenberry said:

suggestions

Don't solder.  A press fit is best, or JB weld if you screw up.  The soldered guard is a uniquely mid-20th century complication.   

If you must, don't use 60/40 or any lead-bearing solder.  Get the lead free plumbing stuff and use zinc chloride paste, preferably Lennox tinning flux (has tin powder in it). 

But again, solderless is happier. A hidden pin can do wonders. Your EDC is stainless, which greatly complicates soldering. Just some advice. 

[Chris Christenberry 346]

Dang, you would go and complicate matters, wouldn't you?????  I've made it so I have .003" gap in it for soldering.  JB Weld won't harden in that thin a cross section, will it?  I've already drilled it and the knife for the two brass pins...........so no hidden pin is possible at this point.  Since I've never soldered a guard before, I never gave a minutes thought to the fact that soldering Nitro-V would pose any problems.  Hmmmmm!

[Joshua States 1,717]

1 hour ago, Chris Christenberry said:

Dang, you would go and complicate matters, wouldn't you?????  I've made it so I have .003" gap in it for soldering.  JB Weld won't harden in that thin a cross section, will it?  I've already drilled it and the knife for the two brass pins...........so no hidden pin is possible at this point.  Since I've never soldered a guard before, I never gave a minutes thought to the fact that soldering Nitro-V would pose any problems.  Hmmmmm!

Time to make another guard. I know you didn't want to hear that, but post a pic somewhere and we can guide you to a method (or six) on how to proceed. 

Then again, you could always just call David and ask him...….I'm sure he'd help you out.

[Chris Christenberry 346]

??? Why do I need to make another guard?  I don't understand.

[Joshua States 1,717]

Also, check out this thread in the ABS forum: http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/2554-fitting-a-guard-–-topic-for-september-2016/page__p__18143__hl__Guard fitting__fromsearch__1&#entry18143

 

1 minute ago, Chris Christenberry said:

??? Why do I need to make another guard?  I don't understand.

If you left a gap for the solder and want to go for press fit, you want .003 or .004 too thin, not too wide.

[Chris Christenberry 346]

Link didn't work, Josh.

[Joshua States 1,717]

Crap. It's in the "members only" section.

 

[Chris Christenberry 346]

Yup, and I'm not one of those. 

30 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

If you left a gap for the solder and want to go for press fit, you want .003 or .004 too thin, not too wide.

 

Not sure I understand what you mean here, Josh. 

 

By "gap", I mean the slot in the brass is .003" wider than the thickness of the blade.  Also need to add this is a "U" shaped guard, if that makes any difference.

Edited December 29, 2019 by Chris Christenberry

[Joshua States 1,717]

1 minute ago, Chris Christenberry said:

By "gap", I mean the slot in the brass is .003" wider than the thickness of the blade.

Yes. In press fitting, the slot needs to be .003"-.004" narrower than the thickness of the blade.

There are two methods in press fit. The 2-shoulder and the 4-shoulder method.

I cannot explain this filly right now, but can do so later.

It's movie night and Liz wants popcorn

[Chris Christenberry 346]

Notice my last sentence in last post.  It was an "edit".

[Alex Middleton 499]

The .003"-.004" can produce a suprising amount of wiggle, or a relatively noticeable gap to a discerning eye, if it's not filled in like you intended to do with the solder.  Especially if you still need to finish sanding the blade.  

If you haven't finished the edges and face of the guard yet, you can always lay it on edge on your anvil and smack it with a hammer.  It will help to close up the slot but will obviously distort other areas that will need to be cleaned back up.  I would do it after you finish the blade and have the tang inside the guard when you hit it.  You'll end up with a perfect fit.

 

Edited December 29, 2019 by Alex Middleton

[Alex Middleton 499]

Shoot, I just saw that you have pin holes drilled in your guard already.  That will complicate things.

[Chris Christenberry 346]

My dear "sainted" mother always used to say one of my favorite words as a precocious little child was "compilated".  She would always laugh and say "Chris always seems to make things compilated in life."   Oh well, the road has been rough and I'm used to it.   "I shall persevere!"

[Zeb Camper 780]

Cool stuff Mike!

 

Finally got in the shop. I had to choose between all my current projects. Made more headway with the guitar. Forgot to get a pic though. In due time!

 

Welded this up on friday though. 

Happy new year y'all!

[Chris Christenberry 346]

Zeb, that's beautiful.  I really like it.  It's one thing to hammer out some "cute little leaves" on the anvil.........................but it's another to create a thing of pure beauty such as you have.

[Troels Saabye 41]

I tried to find my anvil... we held one heck of a party (25 year anniversary for living on the farm) and in that occassion  my anvil was moved, and never seen since So the hunt is on.

[Alan Longmire 2,723]

Good luck on the anvil hunt, Troels!  Nice railing, Zeb!

And Chris: the complication of stainless is solved by using a specific solder and flux combo, the name of which escapes me, but is available from Sheffield Supply.  But, no gap, even for solder.  Press fit no matter what. There should be no visible line after soldering, it will wick its way into the tightest joint as long as the metals are clean and fluxed.  It's the "clean" thing that causes problems with stainless.  The chrome oxide layer that makes it stainless repels solder like a layer of grease repels water.

 

Edit: Sheffild part #SXS1 solder and #YXS1 flux.  If you want antiflux, #MB01.  Again, no gaps.  Ever. (Insert Mommie Dearest screaming "NO WIRE HANGERS! EVER!!! and you'll get the idea) 

[Alan Longmire 2,723]

Oh, and your blade has to be heat treated before you solder the guard, so wait until that's done before you start the new one.

[Chris Christenberry 346]

Well, while I'm a total neophyte to all of this, Alan, I do know I've got to wait until the blade has a HT to do the soldering.  I just want to be sure and not ruin it with the soldering heat.  Thanks for the Part numbers.  I'll get right on it.

[Troels Saabye 41]

Thanks Allan yeah I got a pretty good idea of where it is, the only problem is lack of tools to dig it out... 200+ kg af steel  doesn't play nice with manual lifting...

[Alex Middleton 499]

That must have been one helluva party!

[Chris Christenberry 346]

I agree with you, Alex.  I remember a party while I was in the military "way back when" that was so wild I lost my car keys.................but I've sure as heck never misplaced an anvil.

[Martin Tiney 41]

I went to a party and lost a whole weekend, that was a good party..... I think !!!

Edited December 29, 2019 by Martin Tiney
Typo.... Again!