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Josh A Weston

Quick Viking Inspired Axe

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A couple things I have recently learned:

 

  1. I started to file the internal edges of the haft hole/eye. I used to leave it as forged which left the corner angle 90º. While it looked fine as soon as it was used those sharp angles would dig into the haft and mess it up and ruin the haft faster. Now that they have been slightly rounded there is very little damage to the haft when thrown or in chopping.
  2. I love making so much better from a rail clip than a rail spike.
  3. Although I can finish them to an extreme shine I prefer this medium finish. I just can't get the extra price out of a super shiny axe at this point.
  4. I don't like the wood from Blacksmith Depot. The last three orders I have made from them the wood is very "chippy" or "splintery". Does anyone know if they have switched wood sources? They used to put out a pretty good product but lately 3 of 5 hafts have required a lot of additional attention to make it sellable.
  5. Having an extra body in the shop helps me keep the shape more true. Earlier this week I started one of the same stock on my own and the eye was so crooked I had to abandon the piece entirely. Then I had my cousin come strike for me and I was able to keep the slot straight and true. Also the blade needed less straightening by the end than usual.

Well, that's it for today, folks! Now to spend the rest of my day making posts across the internet and boosting my search ratings.

 

Wanna see more? http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/post/139074975344/thepxsmith-viking-axe-edc-get-one-for-your

 

 

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I love making so much better from a rail clip than a rail spike.

I assume then that this was mad from a rail road clip. How do you go about it? Symmetric or asymmetric wrap? Welded bit? Any other pointers? Looks great!

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Looks good!

 

I get my handles from Dunlap Woodcrafts.

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I assume then that this was mad from a rail road clip. How do you go about it? Symmetric or asymmetric wrap? Welded bit? Any other pointers? Looks great!

 

I actually do a very careful slit and drift. I will usually upset the piece a little to give it that little extra thickness. I do the slit and drift so I don't have to do a forge weld. Not that I don't like forge welding, just I wanted an axe option to sell that didn't require that.

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I actually do a very careful slit and drift. I will usually upset the piece a little to give it that little extra thickness. I do the slit and drift so I don't have to do a forge weld. Not that I don't like forge welding, just I wanted an axe option to sell that didn't require that.

Yikes! I have to go back and look at the clips I have. Either A) they are bigger than I remember, B) what you have is different than mine or C) you are insane and have incredible slitting skills. I'm guessing it is a combination of A and C. Even if I am off on remembering the size by quite a bit I don't think I would want to slit it. Thanks for letting me know!

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Yikes! I have to go back and look at the clips I have. Either A) they are bigger than I remember, B) what you have is different than mine or C) you are insane and have incredible slitting skills. I'm guessing it is a combination of A and C. Even if I am off on remembering the size by quite a bit I don't think I would want to slit it. Thanks for letting me know!

 

They are not terribly wide or thick. It really is very difficult to slit them without a striker. I do it sometimes but it is usually slightly off when done solo. I use a pretty think slot punch for it and then drift a lot.

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Where can I get an eye drift?

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Where can I get an eye drift?

 

I got mine from blacksmith depot: http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/knife-making/tomahawk-tools.html

 

It works fine if you don't really drift with it. It's really just for shaping a drifted eye. To drift I use a round rod with a wedge shaped end. This gives me a round eye which I can then place my tomahawk drift in and shape the hole properly.

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The original hawk drift is by Iron Mountain Forge. The Blacksmiths Depot version is a rougher casting using an original as the mold, and as such is a bit smaller.

 

Like Josh said, they aren't really made to hammer on too hard. The real ones are malleable iron, the others are a bit softer.

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Thanks guys. It looks like Pieh Tool sells the Iron Mtn. ones and is here in the PHX area.

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