Alveprins Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Ok, so since I'm new here - and this is my first post - I thought I'd share my first knife and the process which through I made it. The knife is a 108 layer, twisted double bar damascus in san-mai lamination, differentially hardened with "blue clay". The steel used is #15 and #20 for the damascus, and "Øberg steel" for the edge. Handle is African ebony, with mosaic pins from Russia. I started off with a stack of 12 sheets of #15 and #20 steel welded together at the corners with my arch-welder. I proceeded to hammering it out into a long bar. And then cleaned it up with my angle grinder, cut it in three and stacked them arch-welding the corners again. I then drew it out into a long bar again. Cleaned and cut in three once more, and ofc. arch-welded the billet. Now having rougly 108 layers of steel, I drew it out to a square stock and cut it in half. I then proceeded to twisting the two halves. Some more twisting... And then some more - until I was satisfied with them. I then took the two twisted bars with me to work and borrowed the belt sander a bit... (mine sucks. Building a new one...) And then forge welded those two bars together, and drew it out once more. Cleaned it up, cut it in half, and inserted the middle steel for the edge. (Øberg steel.) Used the angle grinder once more to get everyting nice and even. I used too little steel ofc... and had to forge weld three plates of #15 steel, pound them out to the correct diameter - and then forge weld the new "extra length" onto the actual damascus billet. I then drew the outline of the knife. I then proceeded to cut the knife out - using my trusty angle-grinder. And taking it back to work once more - to borrow the belt sander. I then wrapped it in clay, which cracked up - so I had to wire it in place. (ceramic "blue clay") I quenced in regular "food oil" I bought at the super market. Then heat-treated the blade in my kitchen oven at +200 celcius for 2 hours. Polished it to 12000grit on my #220, #1000, #3000, #8000 and #12000 Naniwa Japanese sharpening stones.(oh, and #600 paper between #220 and #1000) And then etched the blade in 30% hydrochloric acid - neutralizing with windex and wiping off the blade with soft paper. I then glued on the ebony handle scales - attaching it to the full tang using mosaic pins I got off E-bay from Russia... And then finished the handle using files and sand paper up to #600. (Going to apply #1200 at work tomorrow before applying some wax or oil to it as well...) No power-hammer or hydraulic press was used. Only 1,5kg hammer, tongs, and a modified plummer's wrench for twisting the steel. A few mistakes was made along the way - and the knife has a few flaws... Flaws that will not be repeated in the next one. (I've allready ordered materials for it. Fossilized mammoth amongst other things. ) My biggest disapointment though - is the lack of hamon. Perhaps it will not show on this type of steel - oil-quenched. I quenched one blade in water though - but it broke - and I didn't want to repeat that... I definitively need to come up with some better clay... This one crack's up way too much. So - after having done this project I now have a 1.5kw electric motor down in the basement, waiting for the belt-sander metal framework and wheels to arrive in the mail from Croatia. I've also been in contact with a company in China about importing a 16kg C41-16 air-hammer. Forge folding those billets is really timeconsuming when done by hand, and I figured I can save quite a bit of time by getting a powerhammer to do the rough work on. Any comments or general feedback is greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Alveprins - Norway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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