Philip West 6 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 On 5/10/2016 at 10:51 AM, Dave Stephens said: Kevin -- I should have noted that the cold blue method only works well with low layer patterns, like the twists in the middle. You need broad "peaks" to protect the "valleys" from the sanding. We use cold blue a lot with low layer patterns like in Damascus axe's..Also helps bring out cable pattern real well. Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Here is Part 2. Let me know what you think. Link to post Share on other sites
MLenaghan 57 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 this is great! thanks Niels always love your video's and perfect timing to give me motivation to finish my own spear! Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,657 Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 What a great video set this is. Thanks for the step by step. I particularly liked the scenes in video #1 when you are angle grinding and the sparks are flying over the Benzomatic torch bottle! Seriously though, great stuff. BTW-I subscribed a long time ago, but I never get any notifications when you post a new video.... Link to post Share on other sites
Chris C-S 148 Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Hey Neils, Been following vividly on youtube, i even have the alerts set hoping for the next video... Anytime now... Good work, keep it up. Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Thanks. The next one will be on actually welding the socket. An operation I still struggle with - a lot. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Devin D 6 Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Enjoying the videos and looking forward to the next one. Link to post Share on other sites
J.Arthur Loose 85 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Awesome. Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Stephens 414 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Awesome work, Neils! Link to post Share on other sites
Scott Sweder 7 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Wow!!! just amazing work. Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Here is the next one. Socket and core welding this time. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Chris C-S 148 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Finally, will be watching on my lunch break. #excited to see it. Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,657 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 On 3/27/2017 at 6:35 AM, nprovos said: Thanks. The next one will be on actually welding the socket. An operation I still struggle with - a lot. I wouldn't have guessed that watching the video! Link to post Share on other sites
Philip West 6 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Great video, Im just curious do you have a preference using your mandrel like that inside the socket over using a mandrel mounted in your hardy? Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 4 hours ago, Philip West said: Great video, Im just curious do you have a preference using your mandrel like that inside the socket over using a mandrel mounted in your hardy? The point of inserting the mandrel is to heat it up with the rest of the material. A mandrel on the anvil will suck the heat right out. Link to post Share on other sites
Pieter-Paul Derks 206 Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 How do you keep the mandrel from welding to the socket? Does the graphite you coated it with prevent this? I tried to make pipe once and enden with a nice solid bar. Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 I make sure the mandrel has a lot of scale. The flux ends up getting everywhere and made the mandrel bind pretty heavily. I have also heard that others insert a lot of scale directly to prevent that. I am not sure if the graphite actually made much of a difference. Link to post Share on other sites
Aiden CC 221 Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 10 hours ago, nprovos said: I make sure the mandrel has a lot of scale. The flux ends up getting everywhere and made the mandrel bind pretty heavily. I have also heard that others insert a lot of scale directly to prevent that. I am not sure if the graphite actually made much of a difference. Great video series, I'm excited to see more! Some folks actually add graphite between surfaces being forged welded to try and add some carbon to the junction, so I don't think it does too much to stop the welding. Would it be possible to forge the mandrel out of 416 stainless or something similar? A steel with a lot of chromium definitely wouldn't want to stick as much. Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,657 Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 2 hours ago, Aiden CC said: Some folks actually add graphite between surfaces being forged welded to try and add some carbon to the junction, so I don't think it does too much to stop the welding. I often use pure graphite spray on the surfaces of my multi-bar pattern welds to avoid those white lines from showing up. It has to be the pure graphite though. If you use the stuff with the silicone additive, the weld will never take. Link to post Share on other sites
Philip West 6 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) On 4/6/2017 at 8:39 PM, nprovos said: The point of inserting the mandrel is to heat it up with the rest of the material. A mandrel on the anvil will suck the heat right out. It does especially on thin stuff. we weld chisel sockets on a mandrel that's set in the anvil. Like in this woodwrights shop/ peter ross video. welding the socket starts about the 8 minute mark but this is a one piece socket and blade not two piece like yours. http://www.pbs.org/video/2365386383/ Edited April 10, 2017 by Philip West Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 Here is the next part. Twisting 9-layer bars and hairpin weld. Link to post Share on other sites
Jonas Liebel 30 Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 Wonderful stuff, thank you for sharing the steps with us! Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 Here is the next one. This is the one where I put in the wolf tooth pattern. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Chris C-S 148 Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Hi niels, just watched and liked over on YouTube. Great videos, keep them coming. I appreciate your video quality and have no idea how much work it takes but nonetheless think their great. a question on your power hammer and press, are these self made? If not what brands/type are these? Thanks, Chris. Link to post Share on other sites
Niels Provos 161 Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 The power hammer is a Bullhammer 75. It does not hit all that hard but I quite like it. The company went out of business years ago. The press may be of the harbor freight variety but with a new table. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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