Tempering a dagger

[alangwhitney@yahoo.com 4]

Making my first dagger (8.5" blade) and wondering if there is a way to draw back the center to toughen the blade?

 

It is made from an old file, heat treated and tempered at 350* for two hours.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

[Josh Brannen 3]

I know that a lot of people place a heated rod on the center spine and watch the temper colors spread from there.

[jake cleland 437]

etch it first - file steel quenched in oil in a dagger cross section quite likely won't have through hardened, so there may be no need to draw back the ridge...

[Gabriel James 90]

etch it first - file steel quenched in oil in a dagger cross section quite likely won't have through hardened, so there may be no need to draw back the ridge...

wow i didnt even think of that but thats great advice. The acid oxidizes the harden areas and you will easily tell...

[alangwhitney@yahoo.com 4]

Thanks for the input! After etching, I think your right about the center.

 

Below shows first dry fitting. Still shaping guard, taking rough grind marks out and final fitting.

 

The handle is curly maple with aqua fortis....not incredibly happy with it. I am thinking of switching to Ebony. If so, I will twist some silver wire for the bottom of the groove.

 

[Doug Lester 280]

That's a nice looking dagger. Personally if I was wanting to make a black or nearly black handle I would go to African Blackwood instead of Ebony. Ebony has a bad reputation for checking. The African Blackwood is so oily that's it's very stable. Just a thought. If you want a deep brown with a little figure I'd take a look at Lignum vitae.

 

Doug