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4-Bar Core Viking Sword


Ben A.

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A little while ago, I started fulfilling a lifelong dream: to make a traditional Viking sword. I started work in early February, and here is the progress:

 

Three of the four core billets, 13 layers of 1084 and 15n20:

 

IMG_4804.JPG

Edited by Ben A.
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This is the first time I tried this method. I was thinking that the C-clamps would allow the edge billet to move as I welded, a bit easier than tack welds (with less mig spots to grind off, as well). I put the whole thing into the forge up to the first C-clamp, welded the tip in a contour on the edge of my swage block that fit just right, then welded the edge as far as the heat would allow. I then removed the first C-clamp, and pushed it further into the forge for the next round of forge welding. This continued until the whole thing was welded. I'm happy with the way it turned out. I welded a small piece of mild bar, something like 3/4" square, by 2" long onto the tang area for the sole purpose of being something that I could hammer on while setting the tip weld.

EdgeClamped.jpg

Edited by Ben A.
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Sweet, those welds look solid as heck. I'm excited to see where you take this.

“If you trust in yourself. . . believe in your dreams. . . and follow your star. . . you will still get beaten by the people who have spent their time working hard and learning things, the people who weren't so lazy.” ~ Terry Pratchett

 

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This may just be the kick of inspiration I needed to tackle my next multi bar sword! Fantastic work, and clean well matched twists, I like this a lot! The edge wrap looks fantastic also. Apparently not an easy weld to make but a fun one for sure! I Also like how the edge bar is beginning to look, very organic.

 

Any ideas on hilt components or style yet? Are you planning on forging or grinding the fuller?

 

Keep it up this is looking fantastic! :D

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Colin: thanks!

Wes: More to upload, probably tomorrow.

Emiliano: I know what you mean, just lurking around here is enough to make me run to my shop! Type X hilt, grindint the fuller to expose the "X"s.

Evelyn: Around a 30" blade. After welding it was ~26-28", I don't remember exactly.

More to be posted tomorrow...

-Ben

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Rough shaping is done. The sword blade is about 30-1/2" long, and the tang is short and stubby. I want to weld a section of wrought iron onto the end of the tang, to make peining easier later.

IMG_4924.JPG

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Here it is after rough grinding, and my first fuller grinding ever. I was using a 6" contact wheel, but I think that's too small for this sword. The fuller is narrower than the pattern, at this depth.

IMG_5082.JPG

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Here's the sword after re-grinding the fuller with a 10" contact wheel. I cut a slit in a photocopy of the hilt I want to make, so I could push the tang through, and see how the whole thing might look:

MySwordOldHandle.jpg

Edited by Ben A.
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