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Jamb Knife, Take-Down Concept


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/12/2017 at 2:52 AM, Justin leonard said:

man these are awesome

Thanks! I sold all but one of my folders at the fair, and I sold 4 of the fixed blades. People seemed to like the classic American style of my friend's fixed blades more than my style. Dan's knives have brass guards, leather stacking in some of the handles, elk antler, and small colorful spacers. Very much like older style skinning knives, so the older customers probably like that more. 

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  • 1 month later...

Even though I posted these blades in show & tell, I'll post them here because they are the tenon design. The major improvement here was using high carbon steel for the wedges that I then heat treated to a light blue to get maximum toughness/springiness. One problem that has happened with mild steel wedges is that even though I round over the inside of the tang hole, I can only drive it in so far until the tang scrapes on the mild steel wedge and keeps it from going in further. A heat treated wedge gives me the ability to drive the wedge in without scratching any surface. I had to make 2 wedges for the large chopper because I barely tempered the first wedge, and there was enough pressure on it to snap it right in the middle.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Amazing work.........

I believe I've seen one of your videos?

Fascinating to see your first efforts and progression in this thread, again well done and thanks for sharing

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  • 2 weeks later...

A couple new ones, and new things that I have tried, too. The drop point has my touchmark on the tang inside the handle, and the trailing point is visible on the side.

The drop point has a padauk and walnut handle, and the trailing point has a zircote-padauk-zircote handle. 

It is my first time working stainless steel, I was able to hot punch a hole through the stainless stock and drift it up onto the shoulders of the blade. The resistance of the stainless steel actually made the hole more crisp than with mild. I kept the forge finish on the front of the bolster and finish it everywhere else.

I tried out my leather stamps on these for the first time. I wasn't able to get the tapered shape as defined as I would have liked on the trailing point sheath, so a swivel knife is on its way from Amazon.

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Update:

The handle on the drop point didn't fit quite right on the guard/handle surface, so I had to sand away some of the handle to get the fit right again. Unfortunately, the wedge didn't fit firmly anymore from removing material on the handle. There wasn't enough of a gap to fix it by adding a metal spacer, so instead I was able to deform the tang hole at the end of the tang. I took off the handle, put the blade in a vise so the end of the tang was sticking out past the jaws, and gave it a couple whacks with a hammer. It fits completely snug again. 

Edited by Wesley Alberson
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  • 4 months later...

I am slowly gearing up for blade show, making some wedge tenon knives, as well as some folders and knives with regular pins. I'm getting a bit better with my leather work. I am making the sheaths so they can be worn on either side horizontally or vertically.

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  • 4 months later...

The latest wedge tenon knife from this year's KITH, Spelunkir. This one was a bit more interesting because the handle has 5 parts, usually it is just the bolster, handle, and butt plate. The riveted pommel piece is a new thing, too. I wonder if a high carbon steel wedge on a brass/copper butt plate would work, the wedge would have to be pretty smooth so it doesn't abrade the softer metal. I think I'll stick to iron, though.

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I really liked the blade shape of Spelunkir, so being the jealous person that I am I made a bigger spelunkir blade out of W2 and got a nice hamon, too. I might make this one a peened tang construction since I want brass on the end of the bolster. The handle will be made of spalted end grain hackberry with a piece of water buffalo horn in the middle. I also started on a puukko knife.

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